260 Ackley Improved Fireforming Load?

MSR_Gal

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I want to fireform 260 Remington to 260 Ackley Improved. I want to use Speer Gold Dot 140gr or 120gr if posible. Can anyone here sugggest a powder and load for this. I have H4350, Reloder 16 and Vihtavuori 555, but will buy any powder recommended for successful fireforming.
 
I start fireforming using 11-12gr of Unique behind a 140gr bullet and work up as needed and 14-15gr behind a 123gr.

Fireforming is all about appropriate pressure, which small charges of pistol powders can achieve with less heat and throat wear and lower costs. Old Lyman Cast Bullet Handbooks are great guides to achieve this.
 
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I want to fireform 260 Remington to 260 Ackley Improved. I want to use Speer Gold Dot 140gr or 120gr if posible. Can anyone here sugggest a powder and load for this. I have H4350, Reloder 16 and Vihtavuori 555, but will buy any powder recommended for successful fireforming.
You can just use regular loads and shoot it like a 260Rem. Then you will have the 260AI Cases.
 
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If you want to shoot the rifle in normal fashion, use a full power .260 Rem load.
Not maximum on the edge type load, just normal pressure, regular .260 Rem load.
@lancetkenyon may likely have specific advice on this. I always lean toward a cooler burning powder, to minimize extra wear and tear.

FF loads can perform with great precision, also.
300yds with 280AI brass, necked down and blown out to 25 Sherman L/A
 

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You could use some light, reduced loads that the manual suggests. Before fire forming I prefer to anneal the brass before I start. Full length resize the cases, prep them as you would normally prep your cases and use what ever powder or bullets that you prefer to use. Some reloaders also prefer to do load development during this phase, I prefer to start load development after the initial fire forming.

You could also use the "cream of wheat" process. There are plenty of threads on fire forming using the cream of wheat process on this forum, plus plenty of You Tube videos as well. I like to anneal my brass before fire forming, I believe it gives a better fire forming. Full length resize your brass and prime it. I use a charge of 15 grains of Unique. ALWAYS make certain to visually check the loaded casings in the loading block after they are charged to make sure that they are not "double" charged. After charging the cases fill the casing up to the shoulder with cream of wheat and then hold the entire charge in place with a wad of toilet paper or paper towel pressed into the case with a pencil or a dowel. Just enough paper to hold the charge and the cream of wheat in place. This process may sound like it is complicated,
 
Don't load light parent case loads. Load mid to max parent case charge weights.

I load 42.0gr H4350, under whatever projectile you choose.

Know this, I work up a fire forming load like any other. Then you have an accurate load to go shoot and even hunt with. Shooting an inaccurate load just to form brass sucks. I shoot fire forming loads on steel out to 1400 yards with great results.

I have two .260AIs. One of my all-time favorite cartridges.
 
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I want to fireform 260 Remington to 260 Ackley Improved. I want to use Speer Gold Dot 140gr or 120gr if posible. Can anyone here sugggest a powder and load for this. I have H4350, Reloder 16 and Vihtavuori 555, but will buy any powder recommended for successful fireforming.
Please pay attention to what some of us know like what Lance said and I about using loaded 260 Rem to fire form for the 260AI.
 
Please pay attention to what some of us know like what Lance said and I about using loaded 260 Rem to fire form for the 260AI.
Thanks,
Based on both of your advice, I plan to work up a regular 260 Remington load with N555 and 140gr Gold Dots. N555 has the lowest flame temperature of the three powders I have and contains an effective de-coppering agent. The Gold Dots are HBN coated which should season the bore for easier clean up. The doner rifle will be a 6.5 CM T3x Veil which has a cold hammer forged stainless barrel. All of these things should result in a long accuracy life. I plan to use either Lapua or Pederson SRP brass with CCI 450 primers.
 
Thanks,
Based on both of your advice, I plan to work up a regular 260 Remington load with N555 and 140gr Gold Dots. N555 has the lowest flame temperature of the three powders I have and contains an effective de-coppering agent. The Gold Dots are HBN coated which should season the bore for easier clean up. The doner rifle will be a 6.5 CM T3x Veil which has a cold hammer forged stainless barrel. All of these things should result in a long accuracy life. I plan to use either Lapua or Pederson SRP brass with CCI 450 primers.
555 is an excellent, often underrated powder. According to Ackley a snappy load should be used. I used faster burning powder for the 5 ackleys i have and the shoulders form out well. I save barrel life by using 15 gr IMR red and then top off the case with coffee and a plug of tissue, no bullets.

According to VV powder, the 500 series of powders are more temp stable than the 100 series.
 
Thanks,
Based on both of your advice, I plan to work up a regular 260 Remington load with N555 and 140gr Gold Dots. N555 has the lowest flame temperature of the three powders I have and contains an effective de-coppering agent. The Gold Dots are HBN coated which should season the bore for easier clean up. The doner rifle will be a 6.5 CM T3x Veil which has a cold hammer forged stainless barrel. All of these things should result in a long accuracy life. I plan to use either Lapua or Pederson SRP brass with CCI 450 primers.
Don't discount Alpha .260Rem SRP brass. In my opinion, it is THE brass to use for .260AI. Better quality and consistency than Peterson, on par (or better) with Lapua, and SRP available (Lapua is only available in LRP).
 
The benefit of shooting actual fire forming loads over the COW method, especially with factory barrels, is you kill two (or three) birds with one stone. You form brass, and break in the barrel/smooth out the throat with the first 100 rounds. That way, you can start load development on a barrel that is mostly stabilized, and you know if it is going to shoot well already.

The method of fire forming brass is totally up to you.
But it is a lot more fun shooting paper, steel, or game animals than just popping off some cream of wheat or coffee grounds and making noise.
20220205_081135.jpg


Doesn't this look a lot more fun that just making noise?
 
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