Not mentioned in above post is that one can use scope rings to compensate or adjust scope
from out side, This saves interal adjustments for wind etc. I believe Harrel
1 piece rails can be had in 15 or 20 minute
angle. The rings mentioned are the Burris
Signature rings with plactic inserts. While
scope tilt can be done with these rings they
also offer an alternative. That is perhaps
if tapped holes in action or barrel intallation adds up off center bullet impact.
The Burris rings can be used to center scope tube in both elevation and windage from outside. May sound like a lot of fussing. Butt consider what we pay for good scope is should be mounted so it can do it's thing.
Note to "see" how close the crosshair image
is off center do this. Take small cardboard box and cut two Vs in oposed sides to support
your scope. Set up a white plane surface lighted in from of scope and then look throught as you slowly rotate the scope. If you desire a true starting point adjust the knobs until the crosshairs do not appear to
wobble as tube is spun. THIS is the scopes
natural Zero. Keep the same knob settings (or on some scope you can readjust the knobs with allen wrench to TRUE zero). To continue the experiment reinstall scope on rifle and
fire a group at large paper at 100 yds. What
all this will show is how much drift is in mounting. Most people pop a scope on a rifle and "go zero it in" that's fine for the deer woods where the caps on the adjustments may never come off again. But for outwest or actual long range hunting they may find the mounts can help with elevation or if scpoe in cockeyed on action most of windage etc. in one direction was used up on "zeroing in". The wind has been known to blow both ways (sometimes at same time at long range) So knowing the exact amount of scope adjustment and how to use chart info might
make your day rjb