Exactly! And that's why I responded as such in #7.
Beginner reloader setup
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MarkInPA
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Seems like we always go beyond the basics in these types of discussions.
Yep!
True, but OP seems like a meticulous kind of guy.
William W.
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Micrometer, and preferably the large Dillon case cleaner, the Dillon spray case lube; absolutely nothing better or easier to use and their media polishing additive. Brownells/Sinclair carbide small and large primer pocket reamer is superb; you will need a cheap bench drill and vise for them. Long-term, KM tapered case neck tapering tools to greatly reduce shaving bullet jackets. I prefer Dillion presses with case trimmer attachments and case feeders.
I think back in time,mid 1970's when I started reloading with very little. You only truely learn, when you actually start reloading.
It is a journey, but a fun one to say the least.
It is a journey, but a fun one to say the least.
ranch manager
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I can vouch for the Forester BR FL dies as well. I have mandrels, particularly for new brass. In my limited testing in prepping cases exactly as you state I have eliminated the need for the separate mandrel step after sizing. These Forester dies do a fine job
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My recommendation is keep it simple when starting out, as has already been mentioned by others. Get some components and load a few rounds. I have seen people over plan, over purchase and spoil a great hobby. Keep it enjoyable and add the more technical stuff as you learn. Crawl, stand, walk and then run, you will have less bruises.
A_Brandt
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Have a used wilson micrometer case trimmer coming in the mail currently that I got a very good deal on! And yes I have seen it mentioned that there's skepticism that busting out primers during resizing. So I found a Lee decapping die for $10 and figured why not, if there's any chance to make the outcome better, what's one more step?!
A_Brandt
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Yes fundamentals will for sure come first no doubt or questions about. Can't run before ya can even walk! But I understand what the video was saying with finding pocket depth related to primer size and making the offset of the two with the micrometer. And then adding in an extra .001-.002 for a proper crush on the primer. Does it really make a difference? Sales gimmick? But, one thing I can come to a conclusion on is that it would eliminate another variable within your reloading process. Don't know if I'll pick up on it at the start but I'll def have it in the back of my mind for something to maybe look into once I'm "runnin"!!!!
MarkInPA
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For accuracy, you will not find a better trimmer than the Wilson. With that, you got the best. For speed, you could do better with other trimmers. Since you already have the Wilson, I would start with that.
MarkInPA
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The big advantage to using a separate press with a decapping die is that it keeps the priming dirt away from your main press. The grit can wear the press and can find its way into your dies scarring them. Cleanliness is something to pay attention to.
I'm not real fond of Frankford Arsenal products because of it being manufactured in China, but the Frankford Arsenal hand deprimming tool is the one item I like to have for this purpose. It keeps the dirt away from the press and it is quick.
You don't need micrometer dies to start, you don't need a forster co ax press to start, Hornady comparator, Overall length gauges, or even Tumblers and media....nice stuff later to have....but find out first...if you even enjoy it and upgrade along the way over the next 50 years like so many of us have....
ntsqd
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If the OP will PM me somewhere to send them, I've got a couple older manuals that they can have. Been wondering what to do with them (these are duplicates) and this seems like a good cause.
Lawyers are the reason for wanting older ref books. The newer book are known in some case to have 'de-tuned' maximums.
ETA:
Calipers:
You can spend a lot of money on reloading specific, caliber specific tools to do what a good set of calipers will do for less total investment. Which means buy a good set. I'm not normally a huge tool snob, but in my mind there are only two premium brands and two second tier brands. All of the rest of them are roughly equal to the cheapest Harbor Freight option, but likely of even lower quality. I'm specifically including those calipers sold by the various reloading mfgrs in this third class of calipers.
Mitutoyo and Starrett
Brown & Sharp, Fowler
I would buy digital and I would strongly suggest buying new.
AND most importantly know that none of these can measure a small internal diameter accurately. This is a physical fault that isn't easily over-come and is not a fault of the mfg's. To accurately measure ID's you need either an ID micrometer or gauge pins. The pins cost less and if you go with the Porter Precision mandrel tool instead of the 21st Century tool you can also use them for setting the case neck tension.
Just because the caliper's display shows four places to the right of the decimal point does not mean that they are accurate to that level of precision. Just how you hold them can vary the measurement by .010" Accurate measurements are a learned technique with any brand of caliper.
I'd buy, and have bought several Mitutoyo calipers. 6", like these, should be enough for almost everything firearms related.
Look at MSC-Direct, Travers, or possibly amazon for them. DO NOT buy the Mitutoyo "MyCal" product line, you want their "Digimatic" line. Price the Starretts to feel like you got a decent deal on the Mitutoyos.
ETA II:
Co-Ax press:
My analysis of the Co-Ax press' design is that you have to let go of the concept of forcing all of the various parts (press ram, die, etc.) to be perfectly aligned by rigid design and tight tolerances. The Co-Ax design allows everything to float just enough to let them align themselves. It is an entirely different approach and it isn't one that some folks can accept. They want to have a press that is perfectly rigid and perfectly aligned. Sadly, that's not possible. Every such press is out of perfect alignment and will never be perfectly aligned. It is possible that the degree to which they're not in alignment is so small that it doesn't matter in the practical world, but a lot of time and energy went into achieving that when the Co-Ax has the possibility of producing better concentricity with far less Engineering & Manufacturing energy. Where the Co-Ax will have problems is when the self-aligning can't happen as well as it could due to rough surface finishes and the resulting friction. Surfaces that allow the case and the die plate to move laterally with the lowest friction should be sought.
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