Just got my 7mm-300 win mag reamer

Badgerclaw

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I read through most of the "anyone own a 7-300?" Thread.... painful. If we can keep this thread from getting side tracked that would be awesome. I'm looking for load info from PEOPLE WHO ACTUALLY OWN OR HAVE OWNED A 7MM-300. And before I run that reamer down a barrel, what twist rate has worked for you guys? I recently had an 8 twist 28 nosler barrel that would copper foul like crazy after one shot and all I could figure is I'm pushing a heavy bullet at 3200 and trying to twist it way too fast. Lots of opposing forces. Maybe the 7mm 300 being just a touch slower may be perfect in a 1-8?

AGAIN I dont need any theoretical "well this SHOULD WORK", or "QUICK LOAD" SAYS, or "BERGER TWIST CALCULATOR SAYS". I can look all that up myself. I'm looking for real life data from people who spend more time behind the gun, than playing on the computer. WHO HAVE ACTUALLY LOADED FOR THIS CARTRIDGE, Thanks
 
My Pac Nor chambered 8 twist 28" bbl performs excellently with 195s with 80 grains of RL33 at 3035 fps in Nosler brass. I'm seating the 195s at .035 of the lands.
 
I ran 180 Hybrids 3165(accuracy node) in a 9 twist and a 8.5 twist with H1000. It is flatter than what the 195 will do and about the same wind drift. The 195 will have more energy but but most use rl33 to get the speed which 50% say it is temp sensitive and 50% say not. I have played rl33 a little with it and did not have great first impression. Velocity swung between shooting days. I feel barrel life is too short to mess with it anymore. I have had better luck with rl26 being stable. I will stick with H1000s for now in my 7s.
 
I ran 180 Hybrids 3165(accuracy node) in a 9 twist and a 8.5 twist with H1000. It is flatter than what the 195 will do and about the same wind drift. The 195 will have more energy but but most use rl33 to get the speed which 50% say it is temp sensitive and 50% say not. I have played rl33 a little with it and did not have great first impression. Velocity swung between shooting days. I feel barrel life is too short to mess with it anymore. I have had better luck with rl26 being stable. I will stick with H1000s for now in my 7s.

Agreed. I used RL33 because I had it on hand and I wasn't using it in anything else. If I were to do it again, I'd run straight to RL26 for the velocity and stability.
 
Umm, Okay... What is the difference in composition between RL 33 and RL 26 that makes one more stable (temperature) than the other?
 
Umm, Okay... What is the difference in composition between RL 33 and RL 26 that makes one more stable (temperature) than the other?

http://www.alliantpowder.com/products/powder/reloder33.aspx

http://www.alliantpowder.com/products/powder/reloder26.aspx

They are obviously proprietary. They are not going to give the exact chemical composition for obvious reasons. Hodgdon obviously has it figured out and would not want someone to just be able to copy them. They have had it down for a long time and still no one can catch them. Sure there are powders available from other manufacturers that out perform them velocity wise but who cares if it swings wildly in temp changes. If you want to discuss powder more you really need to start another topic so this one is not derailed more than it needs to be.
 
Umm, Okay... What is the difference in composition between RL 33 and RL 26 that makes one more stable (temperature) than the other?
Like rfurman24 says, I started this thread because the last 7mm-300 thread got so far off topic, a guy had to read through 10 pages to find any actual 7mm-300 win info. There are hundreds of other threads regarding powder if you want to discuss that topic.

For everyone else, thanks for the first hand info, keep it coming, I appreciate it.
 
I've been very curious about building a 7-300. Sounds like a great option when I rebarrel my 300
 
Anyone using Reloder 23 in 7-300? I see people are using 26, is 23 maybe a little to fast for that big a case?
 
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