Bitteroot
Well-Known Member
If your reticle appears canted when viewing, switch sides and if now it's canted the opposite direction… it's you not the scope.
Bubble level?
- Thread starter wilkup
- Start date
memtb
Well-Known Member
I'm about a "half-bubble" off…..so I'm never certain as to what side of the line to put the bubble on!
memtb
I use reticle for wind calls most of the time…
Bitteroot
Well-Known Member
Me too, my scope is in line with the receiver when I installed it.
Picked up a MK Machining Ultra Low-Profile Billet Scope Level and scrapped the rail mount idea. Thanks y'all.
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
It makes a huge difference in hilly areas.
You cannot hit PA groundhogs at distance without minding level -at trigger pull -while well centered on that reticle.
Otherwise, near 500yds & beyond, you'll miss most the time.
It is crucial for me to have a ScopLevel, which I view head on with trigger pull. Thats the flip-up kind.
Any level off to the side, or requiring movement off reticle to view squarely, does not work.
You cannot hit PA groundhogs at distance without minding level -at trigger pull -while well centered on that reticle.
Otherwise, near 500yds & beyond, you'll miss most the time.
It is crucial for me to have a ScopLevel, which I view head on with trigger pull. Thats the flip-up kind.
Any level off to the side, or requiring movement off reticle to view squarely, does not work.
I have one presently that detachable. I haven't used it yet. It mount or attaches off the picatinny rail. I don't think it will come off there. In all the years I have hunted, never used one. I do have a petty good eye to level my scope with crosshair in the scope. Doesn't mean I can't improve either. Plus I don't like to attach anything other than my scope rings to the scope. I set of rings that has a level in it too. Just to see how its it works. At the same time I feel it's needed at longer ranges. Make the shot count!
I use do a lot of grading with a wheel tractor, and sitting up on it, you learn to spot your grade and flowlinse, without getting off the tractor.
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Mikecr
Well-Known Member
I hunt in an area where you can put the truck in neutral and swear you're coasting uphill.
Given this, I had to learn about level and what matters about it.
Easily 99% of level merchandising get's it all wrong. The whole thing is a mess.
Biggest issue: What you need to level is not the gun, but POA elevation adjustment.
It needs to be an adjustment purely tied to reticle movement as dialed and/or held off.
Keep in mind with this that most scope reticles, and dials, are not actually plumb to adjustment.
It's on you to test for this and compensate, same as determining your actual click values, which rarely match advertised.
Anyway, to get this right, the level has to be mounted to the scope tube.
Not a cap, rail or ring, they mean nothing.
Once you've set level on a scope, with measure mounted to it's tube, you can move that scope from gun to gun & back, and always shoot plumb.
No other testing/adjustment to that level is ever needed again, for that scope.
The gun itself doesn't matter
Next issue is use.
You can't be moving your eye off the reticle and target, to consider some angled view of a bubble,
There is parallax with this.
You need to be able to view the bubble head on -while fully ready to pull the trigger.
Otherwise, you're not even trying to get this right.
Last is generalizations.
You're shooting off a bipod in the field, with ~30moa dialed in,, how is level not important?
You know, bullets fall plumb.
Is your aim on that plumb line?
Given this, I had to learn about level and what matters about it.
Easily 99% of level merchandising get's it all wrong. The whole thing is a mess.
Biggest issue: What you need to level is not the gun, but POA elevation adjustment.
It needs to be an adjustment purely tied to reticle movement as dialed and/or held off.
Keep in mind with this that most scope reticles, and dials, are not actually plumb to adjustment.
It's on you to test for this and compensate, same as determining your actual click values, which rarely match advertised.
Anyway, to get this right, the level has to be mounted to the scope tube.
Not a cap, rail or ring, they mean nothing.
Once you've set level on a scope, with measure mounted to it's tube, you can move that scope from gun to gun & back, and always shoot plumb.
No other testing/adjustment to that level is ever needed again, for that scope.
The gun itself doesn't matter
Next issue is use.
You can't be moving your eye off the reticle and target, to consider some angled view of a bubble,
There is parallax with this.
You need to be able to view the bubble head on -while fully ready to pull the trigger.
Otherwise, you're not even trying to get this right.
Last is generalizations.
You're shooting off a bipod in the field, with ~30moa dialed in,, how is level not important?
You know, bullets fall plumb.
Is your aim on that plumb line?
the bullet man
Well-Known Member
vector optics electric level like the mdt send it but way cheaper. google "vector optics electric acd" was looking at the sg pulse when i found this one.
I kind of wonder about that? Yes I have seen areas that driving and noting I feel like headed down the river seem to be runing the other way.
What I don't see is mounting to the picatinny rail is much difference that mouting to the scope. I feel that there is less chance being off. Provided the scope crosshairs are plumb to the rifle to start with. That vertial line has to be done on at rifle stand with the rifle being plumb. I would gather that the picatinny rail attached to the rifle is about as good as you can get. A rifle doesn't have many flats spots on them, at least the one's I have. The rifle has to be plumb, or you don't have anything. I can see if the picatinny rail is off then there a problem also. That probably happed more than what I know of.
So if you mouted to the scope and the scope isn't plumb to the rifle you have nothing either. To me it's the rifle that has to be plumb to start with. Otherwise you don't have anything. That's how I see presently. No jabs intended.
Bitteroot
Well-Known Member
This is part that's important to me. I haven't required any additional levels beyond that.
I feel it's important to me also. Being I am looking extending my range shots. I am looking to start making 600 to 800yds shots.
Bitteroot
Well-Known Member
Its easier than you image, get in touch with me when you have some time, I have a couple spots to shoot.
Still in Mexico North presently. Trying to close the escrow on my home here. Also having to set another place here in Murrieta, for the time being. Most items are moved out and with the packers to store. A few items to move to an old location.
Hell to move after 48 years. I won't do it again. Last move.
