Chey-Tac build mental gymnastic event!

Gregg C

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Bought a BAT CT action awhile back. Got lucky, they had one on the shelf that fit my desires. What a beautiful piece of workmanship!
I'm planning on a barrel order in the next few weeks, having trouble deciding what length barrel. Hell I'm back and forth on caliber/derivative, for that matter. Pretty settled on .375, but then, parent CT? Or an improved version? Smith has a CT reamer, any thing else would require a reamer purchase, and that is ok, I guess.
Settled on 375 cause I got a hot rod 338 already, a 33XC. Still, tho... An even HOTTER 338 would be ok, too. Although, it'd be a throat burner, so,no, 375 it is, but which one? Like to hear from some folks experienced in this choice.
Next is barrel length. At what point is long too long? Love the idea of "free" velocity, and thinking 36 to 40 inch,....
And then, barrel block? Bedding past recoil lug?

It'll be shot from a bench, on a bipod, most likely an Atlas. And I'm building the stock, a laminated wood, with Flame Birch on the outside.

Input ?
 
Bought a BAT CT action awhile back. Got lucky, they had one on the shelf that fit my desires. What a beautiful piece of workmanship!
I'm planning on a barrel order in the next few weeks, having trouble deciding what length barrel. Hell I'm back and forth on caliber/derivative, for that matter. Pretty settled on .375, but then, parent CT? Or an improved version? Smith has a CT reamer, any thing else would require a reamer purchase, and that is ok, I guess.
Settled on 375 cause I got a hot rod 338 already, a 33XC. Still, tho... An even HOTTER 338 would be ok, too. Although, it'd be a throat burner, so,no, 375 it is, but which one? Like to hear from some folks experienced in this choice.
Next is barrel length. At what point is long too long? Love the idea of "free" velocity, and thinking 36 to 40 inch,....
And then, barrel block? Bedding past recoil lug?

It'll be shot from a bench, on a bipod, most likely an Atlas. And I'm building the stock, a laminated wood, with Flame Birch on the outside.

Input ?
Great Actions! We have several BATs in "M", "MB". I saved one for a 338LMAI and another for a 6.5X284 both single shot and duel port. I knew several guys shooting 375 CTs, but have not talked to them in over a year. I don't think that you need to go with a barrel over 34". As far as a Barrel Block would depend on your bedding of the BAT action and the diameter of the barrel for forward weight.
The BAT CT Action is 8.5" long with more length past the recoil lug for bedding. It also requires a 1.35" min barrel. With this action you can get a good support depending on the stock material and bedding material.
Good luck and keep us informed on the build!
 
Call KS Arms, they sell a ton of these .375 ELR barrels and can probably give you a much wider range of info on what's actually being ordered versus what the internet thinks. Twist, length, contour, all that info. K&P Gun Company also used to do a lot of these.


FWIW my contour is 1.5" for 6", then tapered to 1.25" at 34" finish. It's a pretty stout pole. But I'm up against a weight limit for that rifle. My "unlimited" rifle is a 42" Lilja with a similar contour.
 
Call KS Arms, they sell a ton of these .375 ELR barrels and can probably give you a much wider range of info on what's actually being ordered versus what the internet thinks. Twist, length, contour, all that info. K&P Gun Company also used to do a lot of these.


FWIW my contour is 1.5" for 6", then tapered to 1.25" at 34" finish. It's a pretty stout pole. But I'm up against a weight limit for that rifle. My "unlimited" rifle is a 42" Lilja with a similar contour.
What velocity does the Lija produce, vs the 34",and is the 34 a cut barrel?
 
Bought a BAT CT action awhile back. Got lucky, they had one on the shelf that fit my desires. What a beautiful piece of workmanship!
I'm planning on a barrel order in the next few weeks, having trouble deciding what length barrel. Hell I'm back and forth on caliber/derivative, for that matter. Pretty settled on .375, but then, parent CT? Or an improved version? Smith has a CT reamer, any thing else would require a reamer purchase, and that is ok, I guess.
Settled on 375 cause I got a hot rod 338 already, a 33XC. Still, tho... An even HOTTER 338 would be ok, too. Although, it'd be a throat burner, so,no, 375 it is, but which one? Like to hear from some folks experienced in this choice.
Next is barrel length. At what point is long too long? Love the idea of "free" velocity, and thinking 36 to 40 inch,....
And then, barrel block? Bedding past recoil lug?

It'll be shot from a bench, on a bipod, most likely an Atlas. And I'm building the stock, a laminated wood, with Flame Birch on the outside.

Input ?
Been building my XHS rifles using these receivers for well over a decade now and in my 375 Allen Mag chambering. Everything from 12 twist barrels for the original 350 gr SMK to just finish testing and posting on an 8 twist barreled 375 AM to shoot the 390 gr badland bulldozer 2 missiles.

rifle twist can be a critical choice dependent on what bullet you want to use so that needs to be decided before any barrels are ordered.

barrel length, you will see good gains on velocity from 30-34" with the cheytac class chamberings. That being 20-25 fps per inch at most. Past that from 34 to 36" you will see that gain drop to 15 fps at most per inch. Past 36" if will be no more then 10 fps gains with the 375 bore diameter.

do not get to carried away with barrel length, not needed, 36" is max i recommend and in alll honesty i would prefer to see 32-34" used with the BAT receivers because they do have a relatively short receiver thread tenion length as well as a relatively short "wheel base" with the receiver, although, if bedded correctly in a quality stock, their bedding is plenty strong.

just prefer the stiffer, more rigid barrel of a 32-34" over a 36+ with this receiver and you do not give up much in performance with the 375 bore. Very efficient even with nearly 150 grains of powder per shot in my 375 AM.
 
Would also recommend Bartlein barrels or any other top end cut rifled barrel for this class of rifle. Minimum 1.350" shank diameter, 1.400" better. Cut rifled barrels are harder, much harder then any button pulled barrel simply by manufacturing necessity. Compared to Lilja, which i have used many hundreds of Lilja barrels from 2000-2015 on my custom barrels, the bartleins are 50-75 fps faster with same pressure, 20-25% longer barrel life and do not need to worry about chamber stretching like you can see with the softer button pulled barrels. Used to use 1.350" diameter lilja barrels until i realized the chambers were stretching and causing extraction issues. If using a button pulled barrel on any improved version of a cheytac case, strongly recommend a 1.450" shank diameter to provide enough barrel to prevent this stretching. cut rifled barrels such as bartlein can handle these rounds at 1.350" diameter but i do like 1.400" diameter shanks just for added strength.
 
I agree with the above 32-36"
This list might help you make some decisions. Top choice seems to be a 416 Hellfire with a 36" tube. personally I'd stick with a 375CT but totally up to you
 

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Would also recommend Bartlein barrels or any other top end cut rifled barrel for this class of rifle. Minimum 1.350" shank diameter, 1.400" better. Cut rifled barrels are harder, much harder then any button pulled barrel simply by manufacturing necessity. Compared to Lilja, which i have used many hundreds of Lilja barrels from 2000-2015 on my custom barrels, the bartleins are 50-75 fps faster with same pressure, 20-25% longer barrel life and do not need to worry about chamber stretching like you can see with the softer button pulled barrels. Used to use 1.350" diameter lilja barrels until i realized the chambers were stretching and causing extraction issues. If using a button pulled barrel on any improved version of a cheytac case, strongly recommend a 1.450" shank diameter to provide enough barrel to prevent this stretching. cut rifled barrels such as bartlein can handle these rounds at 1.350" diameter but i do like 1.400" diameter shanks just for added strength.
That....makes a ton of sense. I was under the impression that the rifling in a button barrel would be harder. The process involves displacing metal, am I correct in that? Work hardening, extruding. But that doesn't mean anything to the chamber, it was cut. Have I got that right?

The BAT CT measures 1.473 across the flats and whichever type barrel I use, it will be that size.
 
That....makes a ton of sense. I was under the impression that the rifling in a button barrel would be harder. The process involves displacing metal, am I correct in that? Work hardening, extruding. But that doesn't mean anything to the chamber, it was cut. Have I got that right?

The BAT CT measures 1.473 across the flats and whichever type barrel I use, it will be that size.
The surface of the bore of a button pulled barrel will be harder then the core material of the barrel but not as hard as a cut rifled barrel throughout. That is the multi flat BAT receiver, will work with anything up to 1.450" but 1.350"-1.400" may LOOK a bit better. A cut rifled 1.350" diameter barrel would be my choice for that receiver.
 
Built my dream rifle with Kirby and couldn't be happier. Went with a 34" barrel in his 375 AM. 3400fps with the cutting edge 375gr and it is unreal!
 

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