Custom/semi-custom

[Firedad]

I understand. I was feeling convinced to go 20" and add a suppressor. I've never ran one but some seem to think I should buy a suppressor before buying another rifle if I could only afford one or the other.
Please remind me because I'm an amateur here, say at 6000-8000 elevations, because that is where I'd be hunting, would it be higher or lower velocity to get to 1200 ft lbs

 

[Rob01]

Not to be a wise *** but can you make a 1000 yard shot reliably? The rifle is only part of the equation and if you are new I would plan to put a lot of work in before taking that shot.

 

[Slick8]

I understand. I was feeling convinced to go 20" and add a suppressor. I've never ran one but some seem to think I should buy a suppressor before buying another rifle if I could only afford one or the other.
Please remind me because I'm an amateur here, say at 6000-8000 elevations, because that is where I'd be hunting, would it be higher or lower velocity to get to 1200 ft lbs

If you look at the chart I published on post 28 you'll see an impact velocity of 1794 at an altitudeof 630 asl. Most manufacturers state 1800 for minimum impact velocity for reliable expansion. IMO, this number is more important than energy when shooting heavy for caliber vlds as they have such high SD.

I personally have an minimum impact velocity threshold of 2000 for an additional margin of error on cup and core bullets.

If you take that cart on post 28 from 630 elevation to 8000 asl your numbers will go up at 1k.

I still feel that's a tall order to think the prc will get a 175 to a mv of 3000 in a 20 inch barrel.

 

[Firedad]

Ok thank you for explaining. Rob I don't take offense at all. You're right I am new to shooting at 1000 yards and would never feel the need to shoot at an animal at that distance. Seems even with spooky elk and deer they've still allowed me to get in the 500 yard range and you get real close on unsuspecting game. Asking to learn is all and I'll know if it has what it takes at 1000 then I'll have more confidence pulling the trigger from practical distances.

 

[cjholler]

Are you hand loading ammunition? I find pre-fit barrels right up my alley. I purchased a SA TL3, set it in a atom magnesium chassis topped with a ZCO 4-20 and it's good to go. I run a can and spun up a 7 SAUM, and 375 Short Alaskan mag. Plus purchased a pre-fit in 338SS from carbon 6. Nice part with most aftermarket actions is no truing is necessary. machinery tolerances have only gotten better. Reason I picked the TL3 is that you can swap out bolt heads. You would be hard pressed to beat a 7 saum on a intermediate action.

 

[Lee7588]

If going for ultra light I think the bighorn is out of the mix. Unless they've shaved weight that I'm unaware of. That's a lot to make up.

I don't know that the seekins is a weight saver either over any standard 700 action but I haven't done the research.

Ultimately you can save a tremendous amount on the barrel but at a certain point accuracy will be the cost. When you're shaving weight think hard about barrel length as this chops ounces. If running vlds you don't need 3100 fps to do work out to say 800-1000 yards at elk altitude.

Here's the way it was put to me by my smith, a CF barrel and a steel barrel of thr same weight will shoot very similar as they have similar stiffness. Example, a proof sendero and steel magnum contour weigh about the same and should shoot about the same regarding stiffness. The all steel will typically be faster as there's much less diameter stretch of the barrel.
Add to that a little bit of cost savings.

My current build plan is a Def anti on an AG stock and either a #3 or 4 brux at 22 or 24 inches. It will be chambered in 30-28 nosler set up to run heavies up to the 245s.

Like in anything, it's all a compromise where weight and performance are concerned.

Out of the three option the OP listed which action would you suggest?

 

[Slick8]

Based on the three I'd go Tikka for a light weight build or just buy a seekins element.

I don't know enough about the seekins to know if the action is lighter than a standard 700 action.But the element is a nicely packaged rifle.

 

[cjholler]

Bighorn origin with HLR lug so they would be able to purchase barrels threaded for tl3.

 

[Firedad]

I talked to seekins and found out the action sold as a standalone part is not the same as what comes on the element. The element has a proprietary action. The ph2 is a steel action, that is the same action they are offering alone. Forgot the weight, it's on my post earlier in this thread

 

[Slick8]

I just read on another thread that the element is a steel / aluminum hybrid for weight savings.

I still vote Tikka if weight savings is the ultimate goal.

I had a TL3 and it is a good action with the flexibility of the head change but not light.

Another consideration would be the light weight savage action if it can be bought in a long action.

110 Ultralight Short Action -

Savage 110 Short Action Ultralight Action. Stainless steel. Spiral fluted bolt. Available in short action standard & magnum bolt face.

jaoutdoors.com

 

[Firedad]

So would it be better or same to buy a tikka action vs tikka rifle to use the action. Any difference?

 

[Rob01]

Did a search and the Tikka is listed about 30 ounces for the action so not much difference between it and Origin.

 

[cjholler]

I been tempted to build a new rifle on a tikka action but in the end I can't justify a new rifle. I love to tinker which is why I went with the TL3 had barrels in 6.5x47 lapua, carbon 6.5 PRC, 338 SS, 375 SAM and 7 saum. I have culled the herd of barrels to three and possibly looking at getting selling the 375 SAM. It was a fun project in gun smithing class though!

 

[Firedad]

Did a search and the Tikka is listed about 30 ounces for the action so not much difference between it and Origin.

Is the origin worth the extra cost though