Smith &Wesson Performance Center 44 magnum Hunter Model 629 Question, Problem?

Albritton

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Crystal River,Florida
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I recently purchase a S&W 44 mag hunter model 629 for deer huntin. I have a perplexing question. This handgun has two cocking points. 1st "stage" is about 1/8" from full cock and the "2nd stage" is at full hammer cock. At the first stage the trigger pull weight is about 2lb and at full cock it is about 4.5lb. Is this normal? This is a S&W Performance Center "tuned handgun. Does anybody else own a late model S&W model 629 that the hammer can be cocked in two different positions as I described above? Is this a Performance Center purposely added upgrade or is there something wrong with my Smith? Any help will be much appreciated.
 
I am intrigued. I've never heard of such a thing (two 'cocking points') for a double-action revolver being cocked to fire in single-action mode. If you cock it to the 'first' cocking point (about 1/8" from full back) can you push the hammer forward with your thumb and make it fall? It almost seems like a 'false' sear and it's going to slip and let the hammer fall at some point when not intended or expected. Or it's a "new" feature and we are all going to learn something new...but I'm skeptical. All the way back is the only 'cocking' point I'm aware of on a Double-Action revolver being placed in Single-Action mode.
 
I am intrigued. I've never heard of such a thing (two 'cocking points') for a double-action revolver being cocked to fire in single-action mode. If you cock it to the 'first' cocking point (about 1/8" from full back) can you push the hammer forward with your thumb and make it fall? It almost seems like a 'false' sear and it's going to slip and let the hammer fall at some point when not intended or expected. Or it's a "new" feature and we are all going to learn something new...but I'm skeptical. All the way back is the only 'cocking' point I'm aware of on a Double-Action revolver being placed in Single-Action mode.
Nope once hammer falls into this position it cannot be pushed forward. It's solid. Weird, I am gonna remove side plate today and see if I can see these two "cock" points.
 
WARNING! Cycling the action of a double action revolver with the side plate removed will put undue stress on the hammer pin, the cylinder stop pin, and the rest of the pins inside the action works. These might be called "pins", but they are really "axles" supported by the frame and the side plate. Cycling the action with the side plate removed puts all the stress on the frame mounted pin, causing possible breakage of the pin. Having to have the hammer pin replaced (or any of the other 'pins') is NOT a low cost repair!
 
WARNING! Cycling the action of a double action revolver with the side plate removed will put undue stress on the hammer pin, the cylinder stop pin, and the rest of the pins inside the action works. These might be called "pins", but they are really "axles" supported by the frame and the side plate. Cycling the action with the side plate removed puts all the stress on the frame mounted pin, causing possible breakage of the pin. Having to have the hammer pin replaced (or any of the other 'pins') is NOT a low cost repair!
10-4 Thanks for the heads up. Guess I will take it to a smith and have him look at it. Don't know how it got past QC in the custom shop. Aggravating to pay $1100 for a handgun and it not be right I know that
 
I'd send it back to S&W if there's a problem..... I'd, at the least, quiz 'um with a call or e-mail.. As a side note, I see the hammer pin snapped-off more frequently on a SS revolver than I do on a CS revolver. But, it can happen to either one. I've seen some real 'sick' things done to S&W Revolvers buy the untrained. Ya', it's a simple mechanism, but all has to be correct for it to work properly. I've got a 629 in the shop right now to replace the hammer pin because the guy got to 'playing' with it with the side plate off. The new pin will protrude out of the latch side of the frame, requiring re-polishing of the frame. At the factory, the pins are installed before the frame is finish polished. I know C&S charges $175 to remove a broken pin and install a new one, then another $350 to polish the frame. They charge alot more if you try to remove the pin yourself, before sending it to them. They have a 6 month waiting list.
 
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What does your owners manual say?
Is the trigger overtravel stop adjusted properly?

I'd call and ask s&w if your not sure
 
Last edited:
What does your owners manual say?
Is the trigger overtravel stop adjusted properly?

I'd call and ask s&w if your not sure
Owner's manual does not mention
What does your owners manual say?
Is the trigger overtravel stop adjusted properly?

I'd call and ask s&w if your not sure
overtravel stop is a rollpin and isn't adjustable like a threaded stop would be.
 
I keep thinking about this and it just strikes me as so bizarre. So...in essence, your handgun has TWO sears cut, one at full cock, the other about 1/8" short of that. Both hold the hammer back solidly and both release with a trigger pull. It just seems something is not right inside the gun. And maybe it is 'harmless' and you get to 'chose' your trigger pull (interesting!) but it seems anytime something isn't quite right, it will eventually come back to bite you in the back end. I'm very curious what S&W (or your local S&W authorized gunsmith) has to tell you when you contact them. Please share with the class when you have something new to report. I'm always learning something new here on LRH.
 
LOL yeah well I will let ya know cause I will be callin both tomorrow am. I agree with ya that when your gut says something ain't right it usually ain't lying to ya. That's why I brought to the forum in hopes somebody else had bought a S&W 629 Performance Center 44 Mag Hunter and would chime in and tell me if theirs does the same thing.
Still hopin someone will saints normal but ain't holding my breath.
 
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