New to reloading...this is my plan...

Mossyhorn

Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
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15
Location
Washington
Hi, I'm a new member here. Been reading for some time and this will be my first post. I've hunted my whole life...Oregon, Alaska, Wyoming, Idaho, Montana. Never shot at anything over 400 yards and recently bought a MOA extreme summit 7mm Rem Mag as I wanted to stretch things out and shoot a bit further with confidence. With the help of a friend, my first shot at 1000 was a dead ringer! After a string of shots, I then stretched it out to 1160 with pretty good results!. I have to say I'm hooked on the long range shooting deal.

So I figured I might as well get into the reloading thing too! The custom ammo made for my gun is about $4.25 a squeeze! I figured I might as well invest in a reloading setup for that kind of money.

After reading a great deal on here and finding a great sale online, I'm thinking about purchasing the Rockchucker kit and a chargemaster lite. On Natchez I can get both for $500. Additionally I'll need some premium dies and my components, obviously.

So is this a good starting point for someone that wants shoot out to 1000-1200 yards? What other tools will I need that aren't included in the Rockchucker kit that I may need?

Thanks!
 
Welcome to LRH. You are hooked so get ready to spend a bunch of money. You have chosen wisely. I don't know what all in in the Rockchucker kit but I have one that I bought 50 years ago that still loads perfect ammo. You are going to get inindated with suggestions so be prepared to sort through the chaff.
You will need a good set of calipers, a case trimmer, Deburring tool, case lube and dies. You don't need much in the way of cleaning for a rifle if you don't let your brass hit the ground or get wet in the grass. I just wipe mine off with alcohol and a rag then deprime with a separate depriming die they are cheap $15. I would recommend a set of Forester dies they are about $89 and will serve you well if you are looking to get accuracy out of your reloads. The Forester sizing die will make some really straight ammo. I prefer to prime separate from my main press so I use a RCBS bench primer tool.
I also have a separate cheap press, I mean cheap, just to deprime and I leave it set up that way. Don't buy too much gear until you get the hang of reloading and need to improve your game. It is easy to get carried away and spend a bunch of money and then have to sell it or stick it in a box and buy what you really need. You will need a trimmer at some point and I use a RCBS trimmer it has served me well for many years. Weigh your powder carefully and try and load every round the same. Consistency is the name of the game. Start with your once fired brass until you get going then you will want to buy premium brass. I use ADG if they make it. At some point you will need to control your headspace off the shoulder or you will get case head separation. I use Hornady Unique sizing lube I don't recommend the pad and old sticky lube. Don't use too much of the Unique and if you do stick a case in the die don't panic just buy a stuck case remover tool and move on we have all done it at one time or another. There are lots of threads on reloading and most are long as everybody has their way of doing things and think it is the best. The search button at the top is your friend. If you get stumped don't hesitate to ask here and someone will come up with a solution. Hope I have been of a little help. Remember to enjoy the journey.
 
Welcome. Sounds like you've got a pretty good grasp on things. Try and have an experienced reloader help you get started out. You will be up and running in no time and then you 'll figure out the last few odds and ends that you l 'll want.
 
As was said, welcome to the rabbit hole. With a 7rm you'll want to pay attention to shoulder bump, otherwise you may end up with split cases. A good set of full length dies will save you $$ in brass.
A chrony to measure your work is a must (at least for me)...I'm setting here reading Brian Litz's paper on velocity decay....that's how far down the hole I am.
Consistency.....a must in powder measure, concentricity, seating depths.
Take small steps at a time....but don't scrimp on the front end. Good dies, headspace gage....the Rockchucker set is a good start.
 
You'll be half way there with $500. Get a set of hornady bullet and head space gauges, case prep machine. Dies calipers and some sort of brass cleaning are nice.you'll need a bench of some sort too set everything up on. You'll be close too $1000 buy time you're done
 
Don't skimp on anything that your don't have too. If this is truly something you love and will do for the rest of your life then invest in quality. The kit is a nice value but realistically your going to use two things. The press and priming tool.

Every person on this site has a preference and opinion. Research and buy the items you want. And from time to time ask us how to spend your money!
 
Don't skimp on anything that your don't have too. If this is truly something you love and will do for the rest of your life then invest in quality. The kit is a nice value but realistically your going to use two things. The press and priming tool.

Every person on this site has a preference and opinion. Research and buy the items you want. And from time to time ask us how to spend your money!
Agreed. I bought the kit years ago and the only thing I use out of it is the press and occasionally the hand primer tool. I have recently helped a few guys get into reloading. My advice to them was head-space and comparator gauges, a good set of calipers and keep all your brass on the same firing.
 
Thanks everyone, I appreciate all the tips! Like I said, I've been reading a ton of posts on here and other sources, watching videos, etc. It is pretty overwhelming trying to pick individual pieces, as there isn't always a lot of consensus on what is a good tool, ha ha!

I know the rockchucker kit comes with a reloading manual which is a plus.

I will be using Norma brass and have 40 pieces already of once fired that I've gone thru. I try to keep it clean and put it right back in the box after fires. MOA rifles gave me the load recipe too for what they loaded me, so that should give me a good head start as it shoots very well. I ran 10 rounds thru a magnetospeed chrono (first time using a chrono) my first 5 rounds had an SD of around 5. I should have let my barrel cool but it started pouring down rain on me. I put 5 more rounds thru and they were all faster than my previous 5. It kicked my SD up to 10.7.

So I think I've got a good load recipe. Just gotta do my part and load as accurately as I can.
 
Can't go wrong with the Rockchucker. There are quite a few more tools you'll need, especially if you're shooting 1000+. Perhaps ask the forum members prior to buying, then you can read the pros and cons of an item. Most members will agree you'll never stop upgrading, it's almost an addiction. Good luck
 
I would not expect the recipe they gave you to perform the same in 1x fired brass. Virgin nosler 7mm brass is usually pretty short from the shoulder of chamber.
 
you need to FULL LENGTH size FOR YOUR CHAMBER.
WITH BELTED CASES growth at the belt can become an issue.
there is a belt sizing die that sizes just above the belt.
(some one jump in here with the source)
 
First if you have a unfired cartridge, measure the base to datum line on shoulder with headspace gauge. Then compare that to a fired case. I suspect yoy will find the fired case .005 or more longer. Most people will tell you to only bump the shoulder .002. . Doing this your new internal capacity has gained space. Your old load recipe will now have to adjust for the gained capacity. It should not be much but how much you have gained in capacity will determine how much. I was in your shoes at one time and wish i had some help. Good luck
 
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