6.5 Creedmoor Barrel Life

[Idaho Lefty]

If you coat your barrel with baby seal oil & unicorn tears blessed by an indian medicine man, it will gain 500 FPS and the barrel will last 10,000 rounds. That's what I heard from the high school dropout at the local big box store...

Seriously though, I have no idea, just wanted to make a joke.

YUP,.. I heard the same thing,..9,000- 10,000 rounds, EASY, Hammer's DRT, kills Elk, at 1,200-1,500 Yards like lightning and has the Quarters hung in a Tree by the time you get over to the animal, Fire's built and Tenderloins,.. Cooking !

 

[jasonco]

A barrel is an expendable item, just like bullets, powder, primer and brass. As long as there's a barrel maker, life is good!

I have 3 6.5CM, one of which is my test mule for the most part and I don't necessarily baby but, I don't shoot it to where I can't touch it barehanded either and it's still amazes.

 

[Litehiker]

There are two proven ways to increase barrel life.
1. Buy a carbon fiber wrapped barrel. It lowers heat and heat erodes bores.
2. Coat your bullets with HBN (Hexagon Boron Nitride). This will lower friction so much that you will have to increase your powder charge to get back lost velocity. (The slick coating lets the bullet get up to speed so fast that not enough pressure builds up to get MORE speed.) Search for HBN videos on YouTube to see this explained and hoe to use HBN.

Eric B.

 

[WildRose]

Some of us have discovered that nitriding is a 50/50 shot at getting a good Barrel or bad Barrel. I won't do it anymore.

I know a few people have had bad luck with it but then that's going to be true for just about anything.

The vast majority of reports I've read or heard though are overwhelmingly positive.

 

[gohring3006]

There are two proven ways to increase barrel life.
1. Buy a carbon fiber wrapped barrel. It lowers heat and heat erodes bores.
2. Coat your bullets with HBN (Hexagon Boron Nitride). This will lower friction so much that you will have to increase your powder charge to get back lost velocity. (The slick coating lets the bullet get up to speed so fast that not enough pressure builds up to get MORE speed. Search for HBN videos on YouTube to see this explained and hoe to use HBN.

Eric B.

I would like to see more research on carbon barrels increasing barrel life. I seen one theory that it might increase it 15%. If that's the case it's not cost effective, at least for me, when I can get two upper end blanks for about the cost of one carbon barrel blank.

 

[WildRose]

I would like to see more research on carbon barrels increasing barrel life. I seen one theory that it might increase it 15%. If that's the case it's not cost effective, at least for me, when I can get two upper end blanks for about the cost of one carbon barrel blank.

One thing in their favor is that they should certainly dissipate the heat more quickly.

 

[Rich Coyle]

I know a few people have had bad luck with it but then that's going to be true for just about anything.

The vast majority of reports I've read or heard though are overwhelmingly positive.

I don't have enough discretionary money to gamble. I will stick to the proven 50/50 failure rate and let others prove me wrong.

 

[BallisticsGuy]

Some guys I've met that do competitive rifle shooting in a country where barrel replacement is an ordeal due to the legal situation there have told me that they commonly will take a little axle grease (or something very similar to it) and put a dab on the tip of their bullet before firing. The grease migrates to the shank of the bullet on firing and lubricates the bore the whole way down; in theory, with the bulk of the effect at the origin of the lands which is really what people are burning out when they talk about smoking a barrel in <5000 rounds. They tell me about this method producing ENORMOUS gains in barrel life. I personally don't like the idea but I'm thinking of trying it. They keep their ammo clean until just before firing then dip just the tip of the projectile just a little into the grease, load and fire. I guess the something like 2 million G's (if I'm doing the math right) the bullet undergoes at launch is sufficient to evenly spread the grease down the tip to the shank.

 

[Muddyboots]

I use a battery powered bait bucket aerator pump with tygon tubing to help cool down the barrel between 3 shot groups in my 300WM Sendero. It is just enough air to help cool down a little faster and control overall heat buildup. Simple and all sorts of additional ways to increase cooler air by running the plastic tubing through icy water. I have used one of those crazy straw plastic cups where the straw spirals around in the cup thereby increasing cooling of the air when filled with crushed ice and water.

 

[Capt RB]

I can't see how a carbon wrapped barrel would last longer than a steel barrel. One is a convector the other is an insulator. Lighter or stiffer sure but not heat management
In my 6.5cm rifle I broke it in with Tubbs final finish. This moved the throat about .002 in the first 35 shots. In the 1230 that have been shot since. It has move another .006. This is shooting it hot. Over 100rds in less than 4hrs time in practice and in the 2 prs events I shot it in. The other thing is not using 4350. If you can use aslower burning powder you can help make the lhroat last a bit longer also. Just look at the 6mm competition match shooters. They try to use H1000 for the added barrel life.
The another plus besides the coated bullets is shooting 2 final fish rounds after every 100(event) or 1 every 30ish(typical day at the range) By keeping the throat polished you help longevity. The smoother it stays the longer it lasts.
Barrels are a consumable, however getting a good one you try to make it last as long as possible. Bullet coating and throat maintenance using whatever method you choose will help in every case. The amount vs the costs in time and effort are the decision you need to make.

 

[Jjviperzar1]

I can't see how a carbon wrapped barrel would last longer than a steel barrel. One is a convector the other is an insulator. Lighter or stiffer sure but not heat management
In my 6.5cm rifle I broke it in with Tubbs final finish. This moved the throat about .002 in the first 35 shots. In the 1230 that have been shot since. It has move another .006. This is shooting it hot. Over 100rds in less than 4hrs time in practice and in the 2 prs events I shot it in. The other thing is not using 4350. If you can use aslower burning powder you can help make the lhroat last a bit longer also. Just look at the 6mm competition match shooters. They try to use H1000 for the added barrel life.
The another plus besides the coated bullets is shooting 2 final fish rounds after every 100(event) or 1 every 30ish(typical day at the range) By keeping the throat polished you help longevity. The smoother it stays the longer it lasts.
Barrels are a consumable, however getting a good one you try to make it last as long as possible. Bullet coating and throat maintenance using whatever method you choose will help in every case. The amount vs the costs in time and effort are the decision you need to make.

I have contemplated trying the Tubb final finish system myself on a newer 6.5 Creed (120 rounds on barrel) Have you actually noticed any accuracy gains over time as some of his literature states?

 

[Capt RB]

That rifle has held 1/2 moa with every bullet weight if you pay attention. Worst groups would be just under a minute but still less than 1/2 moa of vertical. Mostly because of my lack of wind correction. Shot quite a few sub 1" groups at 300yds sub 2" groups at 500 the week I sold it.
To answer your question I had far less load tweaking than 2 customers with custom 6.5 creeds had. I also ran mine harder with the thought of a rebarrel once I couldn't shoot sub 3/4 moa in great conditions. Strangely my first load was just off the lands @ 2.855 w/147's. I shoot the same redfield target for any changes I make. Once the throat moved a bit I found that I could shoot better with a shorter coal. Improved the width of the node a bunch. I'd assume that is a cause and effect of using the tubbs stuff over bore paste. This is only the second rifle I tried it in so far so good.
If I didn't read German Salazar's article I would never have given it a try. When he was shooting a match he would send a final finish or 2 down the bore for the last shots. It's hard to find his articles beyond the Bulletin archives so IDK where to find a link to that. It was in an article in which he found 4320 a good substitute for varget in either a 30.06 or 308

 

[Jjviperzar1]

That rifle has held 1/2 moa with every bullet weight if you pay attention. Worst groups would be just under a minute but still less than 1/2 moa of vertical. Mostly because of my lack of wind correction. Shot quite a few sub 1" groups at 300yds sub 2" groups at 500 the week I sold it.
To answer your question I had far less load tweaking than 2 customers with custom 6.5 creeds had. I also ran mine harder with the thought of a rebarrel once I couldn't shoot sub 3/4 moa in great conditions. Strangely my first load was just off the lands @ 2.855 w/147's. I shoot the same redfield target for any changes I make. Once the throat moved a bit I found that I could shoot better with a shorter coal. Improved the width of the node a bunch. I'd assume that is a cause and effect of using the tubbs stuff over bore paste. This is only the second rifle I tried it in so far so good.
If I didn't read German Salazar's article I would never have given it a try. When he was shooting a match he would send a final finish or 2 down the bore for the last shots. It's hard to find his articles beyond the Bulletin archives so IDK where to find a link to that. It was in an article in which he found 4320 a good substitute for varget in either a 30.06 or 308

Thank you for the information. I just got a set of dies Wednesday so I plan to start load development today, planing on the trying the 143 eldx. I have read other places that the 147's like jumping quite a bit.
I'll look for that article as well, I have a .308 I've looked for a load for a while.I've tried multiple combinations of Varget and IMR 4064 with various hunting and match bullets but never any spectacular results.

 

[BallisticsGuy]

The other thing is not using 4350. If you can use aslower burning powder you can help make the lhroat last a bit longer also. Just look at the 6mm competition match shooters. They try to use H1000 for the added barrel life.

Coach and I have been having this debate for a while. I've hypothesized that the above would be the case. I've been using RL-23 in my .243AI and he's been using H4350 in his 6XC, both with HBN coated 115 DTAC's running pretty fast. We're just now chambering our next year's barrels, both in 6XC, same reamer, same pipe maker, etc... and we've been wanting to run the same load spec but we've been arguing about going to the same powder and if we do, which one to use. I've been surprised by how little throat erosion I've gotten in well over 1200 rounds shooting in PRS style matches. Right now I'm looking at RL-26 but he still wants to stay with H4350. I don't suppose you have any statistical or experimental data regarding this? Would be really great to win an argument with Coach just once.