How to build a long rang rifle

bsimmons4

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Mar 2, 2016
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So, I'd like to build a left hand remington 700 6.5 creedmoor custom to be guaranteed at least sub moa. I've never done this before so I'm wondering, could I just buy any caliber left hand remington 700 and have it sent in to be rebarrelled? Or it probably has to be anything bigger than 6.5 mm? Then I buy a different stock if I like and have that same guy install it? What's the typical cost for something like this besides buying the initial rifle to begin with? Would this be a good route to getting a good precision rifle?
 
Would the remington 700 sps varmint have a heavy enough barrel for a lot of shooting? Or would I just send the action in and get a while new barrel all together?
 
Buy a standard .473" bolt face short action m700 and send it to your gunsmith to have a good barrel installed.

Put some thought into what bullets you wanna shoot, this will determine the twist rate and throat if you plan on using the internal magazine or aftermarket detach mag kit.
 
So if I figure out the COAL for the cartridge I'd like to primarily shoot, will the gunsmith know how to adjust the throat accordingly or how will I know how deep I want the throat?
 
Buy a standard .473" bolt face short action m700 and send it to your gunsmith to have a good barrel installed.

Put some thought into what bullets you wanna shoot, this will determine the twist rate and throat if you plan on using the internal magazine or aftermarket detach mag kit.

I'd have it blueprinted too.
 
So if I figure out the COAL for the cartridge I'd like to primarily shoot, will the gunsmith know how to adjust the throat accordingly or how will I know how deep I want the throat?

If you wanna shoot factory ammo then they will just set it up to saami specs, if you hand load They usually want a bullet and case for the round you wanna shoot.

You will want the bullet seated so it will fit in the magazine and cycle....I usually want this length touching the lands..
 
What does it mean to having it blueprinted too?

It means all the mating and contact surfaces of the action and the moving parts are all squared to a 90° angle and making 100% solid contact, and are all perfectly aligned with the invisible datum line that runs through the center of the action.

Also, as for your throat dimensions, you're overcomplicating it...Just let the smith cut it to SAAMI specs.
 
Get a very solid idea of what you want to kill and at what range. Budget budget budget, include scope, rings reloading gear if needed. Search around here for build threads and call a few smiths to get prices. It can cost 2k to blueprint and barrel/stock a gun.... Or 10k for some complete turnkey package.
 
What does it mean to having it blueprinted too?

Like pictures, videos are worth 1000 words and then some; this guy IMHO did an awesome job on this videos in explaining and capturing the blueprinting process for a R700 ..

Part 1 https://youtu.be/n191F9c1YiQ?list=PL9AF689609D94435B&t=6

Part 2 https://youtu.be/Ny9wZtVbjz0?list=PL9AF689609D94435B&t=2

Part 3 https://youtu.be/Q1NlIKGO6XM?list=PL9AF689609D94435B&t=3

Part 4 https://youtu.be/QBrqUk8idtM?list=PL9AF689609D94435B&t=8


Good luck on your build and happy safe hunting/shooting.
 
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So, I'd like to build a left hand remington 700 6.5 creedmoor custom to be guaranteed at least sub moa. ....... just have a Krieger barrel installed . that will do it. no need to blue print. I have 6 none are blue printed. if I was going to that expense I would just get a BAT .
 
http://www.bergerbullets.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/COAL.pdf

Sometimes it pays to be complicated...IMO. Of course....

There's nothing complicated about it...It's very straight-forward. The closer you get to the lands, the greater the chamber pressure increases due to less forward movement of the bullet, allowing a slight pressure relief, during the initial ignition of the primer, and can lead to pressure spikes causing catastrophic failure.

I'm still shocked that you think I don't already know how this stuff works, being that I give people reloading advice on a regular basis...If I didn't know what I was doing, it would be very fool-hardy of me to do so.

The fact is, all of my chambers have SAAMI spec throats (with the exception of my .300 Ackley, because it's based on the .300 Wby, and my smith that designed the reamer didn't want any freebore), and I shoot Bergers almost exclusively. I have had ZERO issues. The only time a custom throat design is truly necessary is if A) magazine length is restricted and you need a shorter throat to compensate for cartridge length vs. magazine length to achieve greater accuracy by being able to get closer to the lands, or B) if you need a longer throat to counteract case volume restrictions from the bullet protruding beyond the neck with compressed loads and slow burning powders.
 
So are you saying excessive freebor is the only way to fly? I guess if you wanna run a weatherby and get weatherby published velocities you will probably need to run some amount of freebor. Im not a weatherby guy so it makes no difference to me.

Just because you set the chamber up so you can touch the lands doesn't mean you need to reload it there! But it gives you the option if your gun likes it that way. This is an option not always present with a saami throat. Not to mention if you decide to run heavy for caliber or high BC bullets the internal powder space it all takes up.

Not sure if you read the article I linked....but it speaks to exactly what I'm saying.

I'm sure you give fine reloading advise, but this isn't that.....hopefully the OP reads my link....weighs his options and makes his own decisions. It's too much of an investment to not weigh all the factors, and bury your head in the sand claiming the alternative is too complicated......how complicated is providing the gunsmith with a piece of brass and your intended bullet.....in the end it will be his decisions he has to live with and he should have all the information.
 
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