This is what I meant. Sorry was late last night haha.
bedding full action question
- Thread starter harleybug
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This is what I meant. Sorry was late last night haha.
gohring3006
Well-Known Member
Yea. I gotch ya. Didn't want the op to do a good bedding job then make the screws take some of the recoil..
Ya haha. Have to think things through more when I'm half asleep haha. Anyway, if you are more interested in this style of bedding, feel free to ask me any questions about it. I never knew we were the only ones to do it this way. I had never seen bedding done any other way until seeing it on here and other internet sites. I'm sure that obviously the other way works well but if you don't have the ability to machine your own pillars and don't want to buy an aftermarket stock with a bedding block, this works really well. Can't complain about how the rifles that are bedded in this fashion print groups. All of our rifles are done this way and we've never had a bad one that wouldn't shoot. Heck we even got my Uncle's Ruger M77 Hawkeye to shoot 1/2" after bedding this way and a new trigger and don't forget the reloads!
gohring3006
Well-Known Member
I will take you up on the questions I'm going to order a Boyds stock just don't know which one yet. I wish I could hold a few rifles with the different styles to see which one I like.
7magcreedmoor
Well-Known Member
As an example of bedding the "ends" of the action, here is what my stock looks like on my savage. All the "experts" I read up on seemed to agree that the tang must be free floated like the barrel, since there is so much of a savage receiver behind the rear action screw. The rear action screw is also tricky because the sear is right up against it, and needs some room to swing freely when the rifle is fired. I don't know if you will be able to see it in the pics, but the steel sleeve in the rear screw hole is cut away on the back side for this reason, and the front bedding area holds the recoil lug snugly, but doesn't touch the barrel nut at all (taped off during the process), or reach all the way back to the feed ramp. The entire center portion of the action is clear of the stock, and everything behind the rear action screw, and all of the barrel channel. During load development, the best group at 100 yards was 0.338", the worst was 0.911, and the average of all the test load groups was 0.645". It isn't pretty inside that stock, but it sure works.
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Boyds makes really nice stocks IMO. Have never seen one I haven't liked but have only dealt with their thumbhole stocks. One was on a Remington 700 Stainless Varmint rifle chambered in .22-250 and the other was on a Remington 700 ADL .243 with just a standard weight barrel. They were both for friends of friends and they turned out to be great shooters. We were literally shooting staples out of the paper and dotting them straight across with the .22-250 and it had a cheesy Muller scope on it. We only fired a 5 shot group with the .243 that I remember and the back of the case covered the group. So I recommend Boyds if you're not looking to burn a hole in your wallet.
gohring3006
Well-Known Member
The thumbhole is the one I'm seriously considering, I like the one that looks like the tacticool also..
The thumbhole is a very nice stock for the money. The grip is a little open for me, and I have fairly big hands, but I guess it is better than being to tight and your hand being smashed by recoil. For $99 I don't see how you can go wrong. My next build that will be used for long range hunting and shooting will wear a Boyd's stock. If I do not get a Remington 700 Long Range rifle, then I will just build a heavy barreled rifle off of a 700 action with a Boyd's thumbhole. I really like their Forest Camo Laminate, I just like the colors in it. Pretty cool looking.
gohring3006
Well-Known Member
That's my thoughts, 95$ I ain't out much if I screw it up...
Exactly! You won't mess it up. Just take your time and release agent every metal part and build dams inside the action and around the trigger so no escaping bedding finds itself where it's not suppose to be. Also tape off the recoil lug and make sure to properly clay the barrel nut if using a Savage. If you use our method, I would be glad to help you out with which products to use and if you need any help. With our next bed job, we are looking forward to trying out the liquid Devcon that way we can literally just pour it into the stock without having to scoop the thick epoxy into there. Just one more thing to make it simpler!
gohring3006
Well-Known Member
Exactly! You won't mess it up. Just take your time and release agent every metal part and build dams inside the action and around the trigger so no escaping bedding finds itself where it's not suppose to be. Also tape off the recoil lug and make sure to properly clay the barrel nut if using a Savage. If you use our method, I would be glad to help you out with which products to use and if you need any help. With our next bed job, we are looking forward to trying out the liquid Devcon that way we can literally just pour it into the stock without having to scoop the thick epoxy into there. Just one more thing to make it simpler!
So what do you do, just drill the action screw holes out bigger and put the bedding material in the hole and put release agent on the screw then screw it together. Or do you drill them bigger and put the bedding in solid with no screws and drill it out afterwards.
Drill the action screw holes out to 1/2", then run the screws up through the stock with the barreled action off to the side with everything covered in release agent and dammed off ready to go. Before starting to bed, make sure that your barrel is floated and your action walls are not touching the stock, a piece of paper should fit along the side of the action. We normally use a 200yd Benchrest target to test the gap because we have a large stock of those targets for some reason and they are a little heavier than standard notebook paper. Once you fill the stock full of bedding, screw the action together and tighten everything down, DO NOT torque them, just tighten them. Make sure you leave a little extra bedding in the back to form the bedding for the tang. Do not torque until the pillars are set up. After about 6hrs or as soon as possible, break the action screws loose then re-tighten, but don't take anything apart. After another 6hrs everything should be set up if done right and you will be able to torque down on those pillars. Make sure to have a little piece of extra bedding so it can be your sample to see how well the stuff is setting up. We normally get everything put together in the evening and by bedtime, we break the screws loose and re-tighten them. By morning we are able to break them loose again and tighten them down once more. After that, we take it apart after we are home from work/school and open up the screw holes with the next drill bit size larger. Don't rush anything, taking your time and letting everything sit longer can only help you. Step one is complete after doing this. Step Two includes bedding the recoil lug, action ring, and 1.5-2inches of the barrel channel.
gohring3006
Well-Known Member
sounds simple enough thanks.
No problem! If you need anymore help just let me know! Look forward to your bedding job. What's the specs for your build?
