I believe I'm going to try a WSM

Overkill338

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After someone here gave me the idea, i am thinking about building a WSM on one of my Ruger MKII LA. I like that I could seat the largest. .308" bullets long and the COAL wont exceed 3.30" which will work great for me.

Is it even possible to get a WSM barrel in a Ruger thread with the American barrel nut set up? All Rugers are threaded the same.

I have never messed with a .300 WSM, but maybe it's time to try.
 
You won't be disappointed. 215 with r23 or r26 will do you well
I might build it as a .325. I had one before and liked it. The 220 grain GameKing would be great set out long.

How hard would it be to set up a .338 WSM ? Surely it will out perform a .338 RCM ? Would a .338 WSM with a 30° shoulder be more efficient than the 35° ? Would a 2900 from a 225 be possible with a 28" barrel?
 
I might build it as a .325. I had one before and liked it. The 220 grain GameKing would be great set out long.

How hard would it be to set up a .338 WSM ? Surely it will out perform a .338 RCM ? Would a .338 WSM with a 30° shoulder be more efficient than the 35° ?
Beyond my pay grade since I haven't owned or built a 325 or 338 wsm. Want to see the results though
 
Is it even possible to get a WSM barrel in a Ruger thread with the American barrel nut set up? All Rugers are threaded the same.
All barrels are cylindrical at the butt, so anything a factory can do can also be done by a competent gunsmith. I'm not a machinist, but cutting a thread onto a cylindrical piece of steel ought to be something any mutt who's been standing at a lathe for five years can do...

The thing about .325" bullets is that there ain't very many different kinds. There are many more .338" bullets from which to choose if you want to try some target bullets to see just how accurate is the rifle you've built. I vote that you build a .338-caliber machine...
 
All barrels are cylindrical at the butt, so anything a factory can do can also be done by a competent gunsmith. I'm not a machinist, but cutting a thread onto a cylindrical piece of steel ought to be something any mutt who's been standing at a lathe for five years can do...

The thing about .325" bullets is that there ain't very many different kinds. There are many more .338" bullets from which to choose if you want to try some target bullets to see just how accurate is the rifle you've built. I vote that you build a .338-caliber machine...

Thanks, yeah, it is going to be a .338. I've never had a custom rifle. So I say, why not use a custom caliber too ? It will be used for some hunting, but mostly paper and steel. I'd like to take some road trips and try it at 1k. That is why I'm thinking a 28" barrel.

This Ruger is sentimental, that's why I want to use it. I know a Remington or Savage would be easier, but we will see what happens.

Can you fellas school me on contours ? I don't want a 1.5" bull barrel or anything. My old Sendero seemed about right. Should it be a 1:9 or 1:8 ? I dont see any situation where I will ever use below a 225.
 
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That is why I'm thinking a 28" barrel.

Can you fellas school me on contours ? I don't want a 1.5" bull barrel or anything. My old Sendero seemed about right. Should it be a 1:9 or 1:8 ? I dont see any situation where I will ever use below a 225.
A 28" barrel will cost you several extra bucks (the folding kind) than will a barrel of between 24 to 26 inches. Blanks are usually never cut that long unless you ask the maker for a specific length. An inch can easily be $50. Such a long barrel also tends to make the rifle very tippy toward the front; it might not like to set in the bags too well.

A common contour on a hunting rifle is the #4 from Remington. If you decide to have a custom barrel made, you can specify the muzzle diameter. The butt diameter is most likely going to be 1.25" or about 0.050" lesser in diameter than the receiver. I've had stainless barrels made by Krieger, Hart and Lilja. Of those three, the Hart produced the best groups. I was very pleased with the maker-to-buyer communication with Hart. If I ever have another barrel made, it will be a Hart. My .308" Hart had a 1:10 twist. The attached image is of the .308" Hart. Muzzle diameter is very close to one inch. I gave the rifle away so I cannot measure it and tell you its exact diameter. I designed the barrel to have five inches of true cylinder on the butt end so it could be rechambered six or seven times.

Looking on the Hart site, I see that barrel lengths over 26" are just fifteen bucks! That's reason enough to have a 28" barrel.

https://www.hartbarrels.com/Articles.asp?ID=257
 

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A 28" barrel will cost you several extra bucks (the folding kind) than will a barrel of between 24 to 26 inches. Blanks are usually never cut that long unless you ask the maker for a specific length. An inch can easily be $50. Such a long barrel also tends to make the rifle very tippy toward the front; it might not like to set in the bags too well.

A common contour on a hunting rifle is the #4 from Remington. If you decide to have a custom barrel made, you can specify the muzzle diameter. The butt diameter is most likely going to be 1.25" or about 0.050" lesser in diameter than the receiver. I've had stainless barrels made by Krieger, Hart and Lilja. Of those three, the Hart produced the best groups. I was very pleased with the maker-to-buyer communication with Hart. If I ever have another barrel made, it will be a Hart. My .358" Hart had a 1:12 twist. The attached image is of the .358" Hart. Muzzle diameter is very close to one inch. I gave the rifle away so I cannot measure it and tell you its exact diameter...
I have no problem with 26". If I can match a .338 Win Mag, I will be happy. If I can best it, I will be very happy!
 
I have no problem with 26".
Thing about really long barrels is that very few makers of rifle cases make them long enough to contain the rifle. I had to have a custom aluminum case made for the rifle I gave away because it had a 29" barrel on it. The total length of the rifle was 55 inches. The case finished-out at 59" and cost me $375. The case was called "The Strong Case" and it was ordered at Mark, Fore and Strike in Reno, NV. They are made in Reno; they can make one to any length you want. I had two extra latches put onto mine multiple years after I'd bought it; the maker had no problem with doing it.
 
26" krieger 1:8.5 7wsm I'm getting 3190 fps with rl23 and a 162 eld on a sako 75 SM action. Hard to beat the WSMs with rl23... I had a larger ES and about 60 less FPS with rl26 but either combo is phenomenal... deer out to 898 yards this year.
I've said it a few times, I love the .284's but keep messing with the 30s and 33s instead. I always lusted after a 7 STW but that is a no go on my Ruger. I'm going to look at the 7 WSM again. I believe it is the longest of the WSM's isnt it? From case head to shoulder I mean.

I'm going to look into the Sherman's as well. I think I've already been looking at them, but long hours have my memory fried haha

So you guys think building a WSM on my Long Action Ruger is, a good idea? Seems like it gives me the freedom to throat it however I want, and I'm already used to the action.
 
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