Finally here.

To keep from crushing wood fibers, cracking stocks, etc.
Hence the reason they are supposed to contact either the screw head or bottom metal depending on the rifle or a ferrule that the screw and pillar both are in contact with.

The ideal is to have metal to metal between all three.

Thus you ensure the same points of contact every time and the ability to always get the torque exactly the same.

Anything softer introduced between the action and pillar is going to lessen that repeatability and consistency.
 
Explain the two different pillar wear marks and why they are different and the way to go.

Added this article. I get there a different way because the pillars are already installed as the previous picture shows.

 
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Explain the two different pillar wear marks and why they are different and the way to go.

Added this article. I get there a different way because the pillars are already installed as the previous picture shows.

Congrats on your 280ai nice rifle let us know how it shoots.
 
Sorry about your fall Carlos. Enjoying the explanation. I'm processing the latest posts and I'm beginning to see the benefits of sandwiching the apoxy between the pillars and the action. I've taken a few of my rifles apart and I have noticed the pillar marks on my action just like your select stock picture. Unless the pillars are perfectly aligned and cut correct to the action I can certainly see how torque pressure will cause pressure point issues. Getting rid of any high points on the pillars and adding apoxy / bedding in between the action and the pillars distributes the torque pressure and allows for no contact between metal and metal thereby eliminating pressure points. Makes sense to me. If this is something that can keep my poi very similar when I switch between different loads that percs my interest. Get well and get to the range. Need pics of that too..
 
Sorry about your fall Carlos. Enjoying the explanation. I'm processing the latest posts and I'm beginning to see the benefits of sandwiching the apoxy between the pillars and the action. I've taken a few of my rifles apart and I have noticed the pillar marks on my action just like your select stock picture. Unless the pillars are perfectly aligned and cut correct to the action I can certainly see how torque pressure will cause pressure point issues. Getting rid of any high points on the pillars and adding apoxy / bedding in between the action and the pillars distributes the torque pressure and allows for no contact between metal and metal thereby eliminating pressure points. Makes sense to me. If this is something that can keep my poi very similar when I switch between different loads that percs my interest. Get well and get to the range. Need pics of that too..
Yeah I was cleaning gutters. Real smart at my age. I will post some pics.
 
Sorry about your fall Carlos. Enjoying the explanation. I'm processing the latest posts and I'm beginning to see the benefits of sandwiching the apoxy between the pillars and the action. I've taken a few of my rifles apart and I have noticed the pillar marks on my action just like your select stock picture. Unless the pillars are perfectly aligned and cut correct to the action I can certainly see how torque pressure will cause pressure point issues. Getting rid of any high points on the pillars and adding apoxy / bedding in between the action and the pillars distributes the torque pressure and allows for no contact between metal and metal thereby eliminating pressure points. Makes sense to me. If this is something that can keep my poi very similar when I switch between different loads that percs my interest. Get well and get to the range. Need pics of that too..
What I should've also included is if your rifles are bedded you can get away with grinding the high spots of the pillar so you're just resting on epoxy. Check the free float again. If you can ensure the recoil lug mortise is bedded "tight". The smaller the wiggle room the better.
 
Explain the two different pillar wear marks and why they are different and the way to go.

Added this article. I get there a different way because the pillars are already installed as the previous picture shows.

Did you by chance read the part in which he says it doesn't really matter how you bed them since his rifles are made of non compressible materials?
 
What I should've also included is if your rifles are bedded you can get away with grinding the high spots of the pillar so you're just resting on epoxy. Check the free float again. If you can ensure the recoil lug mortise is bedded "tight". The smaller the wiggle room the better.
got it.. I have a Christenson Ridgeline in 300 PRC that has been giving me cold bore first shot issues on a fouled barrel. Want's to shoot about .75 to the left. It was factory bedded but the recoil lug area is a little sloppy and the bedding near the front action screw is very thin. I may give it it go.
 

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