Why to take your muzzle brake off when cleaning your rifle.

[Punisher]

This happened a little while ago, but I wanted to post the pics to show people that aren't quite savvy to the reason yet.

In short, you can do damage to your crown and your accuracy will deteriorate.

I had a brake fitted by a smith a while back, before I bought the tooling to do this on my own. Not only was the brake a little crooked, but it was put on with Red Locktite. The gun shot great, the smith did a good job, but I couldn't get the thing very clean.

Here is picture of all of the carbon built up on the crown... It was more than 1/16th" thick!

So, when getting a muzzle brake installed or owning one in general, always pull the thing off when you clean it.

I couldn't get the brake torqued to 25 ft/lbs and be in time, so I used BLUE Locktite! To re-install it. It comes off WAY easier (Medium strength Locktite.)

Just look at all of the carbon!

 

[Punisher]

Top view

 

[Engineering101]

I have several brakes. No Loctite on any of them. I stick a screwdriver through the holes in the brake to torque them onto the barrel. They don't come loose - until it is time to clean when I use the screwdriver to reverse the process.

 

[Broz]

Or, use a JP Tactical compensator brake installed to the correct depth and clean the crown with the brake still installed every time you clean the rifle.

Jeff

 

[FearNoWind]

Like lots of other guys, my muzzle brake doesn't come off. It's machined into the barrel.
Oh .... could you guys try to refocus your cameras for correct depth of field? The parts of the picture that are most important are the only elements that are out of focus.

 

[Punisher]

Like lots of other guys, my muzzle brake doesn't come off. It's machined into the barrel.
Oh .... could you guys try to refocus your cameras for correct depth of field? The parts of the picture that are most important are the only elements that are out of focus.

I didn't realize it was out of focus. It doesn't look like it on my phone.

 

[Bravo 4]

I used to take the brake off my .338 when I cleaned it, but the last time I did the threads somehow gauled and the brake got stuck halfway on. I made sure the threads were clean and when screwing it back on it just stopped and wouldn't budge. Took it to my smith and he said you have to be real carefull with tight stainless on stainless threads. He couldn't get it off but got it indexed correctly. I am hesitant to remove one now.

 

[Greyfox]

I have rifles with both permanent and removable brakes. While access to cleaning is easier with the screw on, I just go through a few extra steps with the fixed brake to carefully swab out any excess solvent/residue from the internal portions of the brake and the end of the barrel. I have had no issues due to the design difference. IMO, a well mounted screw on brake should not require an adhesive to stay put.

 

[Punisher]

Or, use a JP Tactical compensator brake installed to the correct depth and clean the crown with the brake still installed every time you clean the rifle.

Jeff

I use the JP eliminator. It is the loudest I have been around but it takes my 7 mag down to a .243 type of recoil.

 

[Broz]

I use the JP eliminator. It is the loudest I have been around but it takes my 7 mag down to a .243 type of recoil.

I have never used the JP Eliminator series but I am very fond of the JP Tactical compensator Brakes. I actually think the compensators are quieter than many brakes, especially the Vais style, plus and the shooter does not get the felt percussion either.

Jeff

 

[bill123]

I have a Badger Tactical Compensator. My smith said not to take it off unless I really have to. Screwing and unscrewing messes up the timing. Maybe someone could explain that one?

If it gets really dirty I pour carbon remover in a small bottle, stick the barrel muzzle down in the solution overnight and it looks like new the next morning.

 

[Broz]

I do not like to lock-tite them on. But here are my views on removing them. Yes, if you remove and replace them enough it will eventually move out of time and need to be re-clocked so top is up. This is due to the fact they register off of a small thin flat area of metal and it does not take a lot to move some metal if over tightened or repeated removal.

Do not over tighten a brake. I use sided discharge brakes and tighten them just snug using 1/2 of an old toothbrush handle.

Over tightening can put a mechanical squeeze on the end of the barrel and cause it to copper foul there.

These are the reasons I like a brake open at the rear so I can easily clean the crown with it installed. Havent taken the brake off my 300 win in probably 1000 rounds.

 

[Punisher]

I have a Badger Tactical Compensator. My smith said not to take it off unless I really have to. Screwing and unscrewing messes up the timing. Maybe someone could explain that one?

If it gets really dirty I pour carbon remover in a small bottle, stick the barrel muzzle down in the solution overnight and it looks like new the next morning.

The timing is what keeps the brAke oriented up and down and side to side. That is why I applied blue Locktite to mine. To keep the brake oriented perfect side to side.

 

[bill123]

Thanks for the "timing" replies.

Coincidentally, I just got my old barrel back (.308, Varget, 6000+ rounds through it. The Badger has 2 lands ahead of the threads that stop you from screwing the brake all the way to the crow. Hope that makes sense. It would be very hard to get to the crown w/ cleaning tools but soaking the brake the way I mentioned before will remove everything.