tuperware stocks

tlshootst

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Jan 21, 2007
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I have owned a Remington ADL and a Win. model 70 with the tuperware stocks. Both are junk. I spent alot of time pillar bedding those stocks with OK results. My question is would pillar bedded walnut stock have more potential to be stable and accurate than the tuerware stocks? The Win. I have bedded 6 years ago and the rifle shoots very well and its zero doesn't change, but I don't like the flex in the forend. The Rem I had I never did get to shoot straight. After a couple of years of tinkering I traded it off. I'm looking for a extra deer rifle and there are alot more wood stocked guns on the used market. I thought if I could buy a wood stocked gun,bed the action,float the barrel It would hold it's zero an make a good extra deer rifle for the family. It will probably be a 25-06.
Thanks for the opinions.
 
If the barreled action is bedded correctly and the forend doesen't bend so much that it contacts the barrel then it shoulden't matter what the stock is made from. The wood will move some with climate changes but as long as the barrel is floated enough then it should have no affect on accuracy.
The last Rem plastic stock I worked over I ended up bedding a 1/4" titanium rod in the forend and filling it with bedding compound to make it solid. I'm in the midst of doing the same thing to a Weatherby right now. I sure hope that the rifle companies using these crap stocks are getting them for free cause their not worth much more.
 
Where do you get titanium rods? I bowhunt so Iv'e thought of using aluminum arrow shafts. If I am going to spend the time to stiffen the forarm of a stock I want to use the best material. I don't understand why most companies offer good synthetic stocks on their varmint models but then want to sell their sporter weight rifles with the cheap stocks. I like my varmint weight rifles for what they are designed for (prairie doggin,etc.) But when I start calling coyotes or do alot of walking and still hunting for deer I'll take a solid accurate sporter any day.
 
I get the Ti rods off of E-bay , pretty cheap to..
I personaly put a good bit of work into it. I cut the couple ribs that are in their out and drill out the material so that the rods will extend all the way into the action bedding right up against the recoil lug area and run them along the sides(one each side) so that you can get past the front sling stud. I make sure to rough the mageral up pretty well and clean it real well with denatured alcohol. I then use some good epoxy to hold the rods in place after it has setup I fill the entire forend with bedding compound (I use steel bed from brownells) so that its just short of being in the barrel channel , after it cures for a couple days I'll roungh it up , clean it then bed the barrel channel to fit the conture of the barrel , I use several layers of .010 mil pipe tape to get my gap for the barrel to free float.
On my personal guns I always make a palm swell to fit my hand better anfer the whole thing is bedded and finished I lightly blast the whole stock and paint with dura-cote , one thats done it looks almost like a custom synthetic , their generaly very stiff like a HS stock would be and a bit heavier.
The weight is a consideration , if you want to keep it light then you may not want to fill the forend full but just a thin coat to make sure the rods are glued realy well
 
[ QUOTE ]
((If the barreled action is bedded correctly and the forend doesen't bend so much that it contacts the barrel then it shoulden't matter what the stock is made from.))

The problem is that the remington stocks are a thermo-plastic and they DO move with temp changes. We made a quick jig, that held the rifle stock from the bottom, using the action holes. The jig was made from a 2" x 6" x 18" piece of hardened steel plate. After attaching the stock and tightening the action screws, the jig and stock were set outside overnight on a night that got down to 8 deg. Brought it into the shop, set up a number of dial indicators and allowed the stock to begin warming up. As the stock slowly warmed to around 50 deg, the dials looked like they were detecting an earthquake! Then put the heat on and let it warm to 80 deg. Again plenty of movement. The stock actually lengthened through the mag box area as it warmed. After seeing this, I would sure choose a pillar bedded wood stock over a rem factory synthetic, bedded in any fashion.
 
257speed, Have you done any testing on any other stock material? That is very interesting info.
Thanks to everyone who has replyed.
 
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