RMorris
Well-Known Member
Today my $399 T3 .308 compact using Hornady Black 168 AMAX outshot my $5000 GAP 6.5 PRC with the best hand loads so far found.
supporter fiction v facts: Ruger v Tikka
- Thread starter jski
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Prairie
Well-Known Member
I traded a tack driving Howa '06 in on a Tikka T3 '06 and am totally pleased with the results. My Tikka shoots bug holes all day, every day. Certainly not taking anything away from the Howa. I have a Howa 1500 in .338WM that shoots just like my Tikka.... bug holes! Couldn't be happier. Guess it's each to his own. Boils down to just what works for you and what you're happy with!
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Deleted member 115374
Guest
I purchased 2 Tikka's t-3 lites - one for myself and one for my son. Both 300 Win. Mag. They are the most accurate out of the box rifles I own. The contenders being Win Mod 70,Wby,Ruger,CZ,Browning. My hunting partner has one in 270 WSM that I reload for as well-very accurate. The thing that I dont like about that Tikka in U.S. is Beretta's marketing agreement for the rights to sell them in the States will not allow the single stage set trigger option to be sold in the U.S. Even though it is available elsewhere, we cant get it-my gunsmith cant even order it. If you own one look in the owners manual you will see the SST option available to others.
bdyal1972
Well-Known Member
Just 2 cents
Ruger American 308 in magpul stock
Ruger American 6.5 creed in hogue stock
Ruger American in 30-06 in Boyd's laminate stock
All 3 have AT LEAST ONE 1/2MOA 5 ROUND LOAD
EACH HAVE 2 OR 3 LOADS 3/4 MOA FOR 10 ROUNDS
EVERY ONE HAS A LIGHT BULLET AND HEAVY BULLET 5 DAY 5 COLD BORE GROUP UNDER .6 MOA
I AM SOLD ON THIS AFFORDABLE PERFORMANCE!!!!
Ruger American 308 in magpul stock
Ruger American 6.5 creed in hogue stock
Ruger American in 30-06 in Boyd's laminate stock
All 3 have AT LEAST ONE 1/2MOA 5 ROUND LOAD
EACH HAVE 2 OR 3 LOADS 3/4 MOA FOR 10 ROUNDS
EVERY ONE HAS A LIGHT BULLET AND HEAVY BULLET 5 DAY 5 COLD BORE GROUP UNDER .6 MOA
I AM SOLD ON THIS AFFORDABLE PERFORMANCE!!!!
bdyal1972
Well-Known Member
I have had A LOVE AFFAIR with pre 1977 ruger 77 heavy barrel 338s and 7mm mags for 30 years....
Recrown barrel
Tune trigger
Free float, marine tex bed full barrel channel with 13 layers of masking tape
Deep clean barrel and firelap with tubbs final finish
3/4 moa EVERY TIME but twice....
Moved the barrel back 1/4", recut chamber...
One was 1/2 moa other was 338wm and would cold bore and hot shot 5 nosler partitions @2700 into 1/2 moa every time for 5 years...
PREDATORMAN
Active Member
Occasionally causing jams of different types. Some needing ejection of the mag to clear. It is talked about by lots of users so it IS a design flaw. I have heard rumors that later mags have been re-engineered to fix the problem. I only own earlier made magazines not desiring to spend several hundred $ for new ones. There are YouTube's showing some ways of fixing the issue.
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Deleted member 115374
Guest
Yeah, I dont doubt it, The Ruger M77 I have is in 300 Win Mag 26" Med/Heavy Barrel. I bought it in 82' and it shot well for me. As I got older it got too heavy for me to pack so I switched to the Tikkas- one for me, then later, one for my son. It reduced my carry weight loaded by 4 + lbs. I pulled it out of my gun cabinet a few yrs. back took it out shot it, couldn't get it to group. I thought it was the scope, sent the scope to the factory, Burris rebuilt the scope internally on lifetime warranty. I checked all of the stock screws, retorqued them then mounted bases and scope. Same problem at the range - 2-3'' groups at 100. I have no idea how many rounds I have put thru that rifle but it was ALOT! I am probably looking at some throat erosion that is causing it to spread groups. Not sure haven't shot it since. I am not doubting that you have good results with your Rugers, just sharing my experiences with the Tikka's. I have a 240 Wby in Mk 5 ultralight that is doing the same thing now. So the upside is I can take the 240 WBY's stock and action turn it into something else- Thinking maybe 6.5/284 as well as the Ruger action and turn it into something else not sure what because it seems like every time I find something I like, something else comes along that changes my mind. Too many choices - worse problems too have though I guess. Your data on your Rugers is impressive. I am new to the gun build field so I get overwhelmed by the choices available. In your case I would say "If it aint broke then don't fix it'. Thanks
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Deleted member 115374
Guest
When you say deep clean the barrel, what is your process ? I use bore paste til the patch comes clean. I am not familiar with tubbs final finish. When I am done with the bore paste I will run a patch with a little alcohol on it to get the residue out, then a little Hoppes or gun oil depending on how long it will be before I shoot again. Would like to know more about the tubbs final finish if you think it is a better way to go. Thanks
You ll have to double check but I believe the barrel threads could be the same on tikka and ruger(1inch 16 tpi). Just a bit longer on the tikka(?) you could adapt a tikka barrel on a ruger receiver and have the best of both worlds 
bdyal1972
Well-Known Member
I always start with sweets 7.62 or an ammonia
I always start with an ammonia based cleaner and use a couple different brands of copper cleaner, cleaning, soaking the barrel, PLASTIC BRUSH 1 CALIBER BIGGER THAN BARREL.
I ALWAYS use a bore guide...
I ALWAYS CAREFULLY use a coated rod!
I always soak the barrel and let it sit 30, 90 minutes, sometimes over night... depends on the cleaner....
I examine the bore with a $100 borehole from harbor freight.
When no copper OR powder is present I tune the trigger, polish bearing surfaces and if necessary change springs, I like lighter firing pins and HEAVIER FIRING PIN SPRINGS....
I ALWAYS STRIP THE STOCKS TO BARE WOOD!!!
I ENLARGE THE BARREL CHANNEL UNTIL THERE IS 1/8" TO 1/4" CLEARANCE TO BARREL!!!
I ADD A SLING SWIVEL FOR A HARRIS BIPOD AND GLASS BED ALL 3 SWIVEL INCLUDING A WASHER FOR ADDED SUPPORT ON BOTTOM AND 2 WASHERS ON TOP OF THE FRONT 2....
I then clean up the checkering and color the wood with a stain, wood burning with propane or both....
Then I glass bed the ENTIRE action AND barrel channel, usually add pillars, i want 13 layers of masking tape clearance, 1/16" clearance minimum....
I want a Douglas fir needle, ponderosa pine needle or hemlock needle to FALL OUT if it gets between barrel channel and barrel.
I like to use marine tex, Accra glass is good, I have also had great success in m1a1 type rifles with plastic bonds in conjunction with pillars and screws on front and back action blocks....
After this I ALWAYS RECROWN BARREL, RETHREAD BARREL MUZZLE AND ADD A BRAKE 90% OF THE TIME AND LAST 10? YEARS FIT A LIMBSAVER RECOIL PAD USUALLY...
I mount scope, boresight and blue threadlocker EVERY SCREW ON RIFLE!!!
I START OFF WITH 3 OF THE HEAVIEST BULLETS I LIKE, 3 of the lightest I like, lod them up 10% off of max load 1,5,10,15,20 thousandths off of the lands
Let the rifle tell me what it likes @ 200 or 250 yards on a 4'x8' piece of butcher paper with 2" black round stickers every 24" observe from bench with cheap $100 spotting scope from the 90s and go from there to try and tune a load from the bench...
Tubbs final finish is just a way to lap a barrel.
10 rounds 80 grit
10 rounds 200 grit
10 rounds 800 grit
10 rounds 2000 grit...
That is representative NOT ACTUAL GRITS
You get the idea...
IT WORKS!!!
I GOT A MARLIN 45/70 FOR $50 AT A PAWN SHOP. wood was worn, bluing gone from the where the previous owner carried it, NO SLING SWIVELS, BARREL WAS SHINY....
I REFINISHED WOOD, RE DID SPRINGS, TRIGGER ETC, CERACOAT.....
SHOT SHOT GUN SPREADS WITH NEW GLOBE FRONT PEEP REAR SIGHT ON 26" BARREL...
PICKED UP MY A2 and put a mag of green tip in b27 at 500 yards.... pride was better, it had been a few years and thought I had forgotten how to shoot...
Long story short.
Did my barrel cleaning program AND COPIED tubbs final finish protocol with 7 or 8 progressive lapping compounds from machine shop at work...
300 grain lead @2500 fps, 415 lead Hardcastle @2400 fps...
4" 5 shot groups @200 yards with peep sights...
300 grain soft lead impacting a 70# coyote head on at 250 yards is IMPRESSIVE!!!
A BUDDY WHO IS A GUIDE BASED OUT OF SOUTH EAST ALASKA HAS BEEN CARRYING THIS RIFLE AS HIS LIGHT RIFLE 10 YEARS....
HIS HEAVY, 458 LOTT, 2X SCOPE, SWING MOUNTS, 26" BARREL PLUS BRAKE....
500 grain at almost 2500 fps....
Goes through brown bear and moose stem to Stearns
He shoots both rifle for coyotes, deer, elk etc
Like watching wingshooting with a rifle...
Anyway hope this helps...
FIRELAPPING is a great tool!!!
bdyal1972
Well-Known Member
You ll have to double check but I believe the barrel threads could be the same on tikka and ruger(1inch 16 tpi). Just a bit longer on the tikka(?) you could adapt a tikka barrel on a ruger receiver and have the best of both worlds
My favorite rifle is a remington stock pre 700, ruger 77 mk2 stainless action, winchester 24" barrel, answer muzzle brake, talley 1 piece rings and bases,, answer buttpad, answer trued and built with lightweight firing pin....
30-06 chamber with LONG LONG throat
Been shooting it for 25 years... at least a DOZEN hunters have gotten first elk or deer with it.
Brother recheckered and Cerakoted it...
130? Grn barnes. 150+180 ballostic tips, 180 and 200? Partitions, 208 amazing
All of these shoot 1 to 5 thousandths off of lands sub 3/4 moa @ 300 yards
Easiest rifle to tune a sub moa load I HAVE EVER LOADED
my brother loaded 3 loads 3/8 moa @ 300 yards....
bdyal1972
Well-Known Member
D
Deleted member 115374
Guest
Thanks
bdyal1972
Well-Known Member
No problem
Many products work
I even have a coated 36" rod I use on a drill with a new larger than bore diameter brush to clean out powder foulinf in a counter bore rotation fashion AFTER SOAKING the barrel...
