Suggestions? (Bedding)

[daniel_k_malloy]

This was the first time I've bedded anything, and I know it could look better, a lot better, but everything is smooth as silk, the action sits in the stock ROCK solid, and my mic doesn't show any further movement when torquing the action screws.
This is a Bergara B-14 Wilderness HMR (6.5cr).
I ended up with a lot more excess than anticipated, resulting in bedding about ¾" in front of the lug, supporting the barrel chamber.
I'm wondering if I should just leave it as is, or go ahead and shave it down for a true, 100% free float?
It'll take a long while before I need a new barrel, so that's a non-issue for me.

 

[jimbires]

I'd shoot it before I removed it . it could shoot better with it . I have a 260 that I bedded about an inch in front of the recoil lug , it shoots great . it's probably the most consistent rifle I have . it shoots everything with little load work . you have about as much bedded , as I do .

 

[Reelamin]

Shoot it and I'd wager it shoots just fine. Looks like a decent bedding job to me. Hopefully you have the before load data to compare it to. I only bed a rifle if it won't shoot good enough

 

[Dosh]

Proof is in the accuracy. I've seen some incredibly perfect bedding jobs that are inaccurate or canted and some apparent globs that shoot lights out.

 

[tobnpr]

It's not likely to affect harmonics.
I don't with sporter contours, but with varmint and bull contours I always bed the inch or so ahead of the lug to help support the barrel so there's not 7 or 8 (or more) pounds of barrel hanging directly off the receiver ring.

 

[22creedmoor]

I just finished bedding my first attempt as well, not only that making bottom metal fit into a GRS berserk stock- lots of dremel time , but after watching every You Tube video available my job turned out very good, point is that doing these things is much more satisfying making a good shooting gun with your work and not just ordering the next best thing they have to offer my .02

 

[Dean2]

I intentional bed all of my rifles 1.5 to 2" ahead of the recoil lug and make Devcon Pillars at the action screws.. It ads greatly to the strenght, supports the barrel and they shoot great. Some of the real light contour barrels I bed all the way to the tip of the forearm ala Melvin Forbes and NULA rifles.
I only do the full length bedding for rifles that have issues with the first two cold bore shots, but it has cured a lot of them over the years.

 

[daniel_k_malloy]

Thank you, fellas. I greatly appreciate the feedback. I'll leave it as is for now and see what happens; gonna give it a good break-in and get some initial data.

 

[daniel_k_malloy]

I just finished bedding my first attempt as well, not only that making bottom metal fit into a GRS berserk stock- lots of dremel time , but after watching every You Tube video available my job turned out very good, point is that doing these things is much more satisfying making a good shooting gun with your work and not just ordering the next best thing they have to offer my .02

I absolutely agree. Plus, it also helps tremendously that there are so many knowledgeable folks in the community who are more than willing to help newcomers like myself.

 

[jarnold37]

I intentional bed all of my rifles 1.5 to 2" ahead of the recoil lug and make Devcon Pillars at the action screws.. It ads greatly to the strenght, supports the barrel and they shoot great. Some of the real light contour barrels I bed all the way to the tip of the forearm ala Melvin Forbes and NULA rifles.
I only do the full length bedding for rifles that have issues with the first two cold bore shots, but it has cured a lot of them over the years.

A well respected stock maker informed me to pour pillars with the same compound when bedding. If aluminum pillars are used, it allows a few thousands of inch shrinkage which leaves all support on only the pillars. I noticed the bluing was worn only where the pillars contacted action.