Stock's Wood or Synthetics

[Savage 25-06]

Stocks: Wood or Synthetics whats your choice.

In my search of Stock building I ran across an article in field and stream yesterday at the doctors office.

Asking the question we all do, wood or synthetic.

The wood part of this comparison I did not understand because it said the water soak test, So I'll assume to take that as bad weather condition. The conclusion on this test was Synthetic being better. I myself don't agree with this for two reasons.

1. I know when synthetics get cold they are stiff, now to be honest I don't know what this would do as far as screwing with ones accuracy, except like anything expand and contract, as wood does also.

2. Is after reading the correct alignment, or truing a stock to a shooter, how does one achieve this with Synthetics.

So my choice is Wood if not just for the second reason, and I don't plan on soaking my wood stock.


Savage 25-06 gun)

 

[MTBULLET]

I use synthetic most of the time, but also use wood laminate for the best of both worlds. But, if building a "pretty" rifle, nothing beats a good wood stock.

 

[Savage 25-06]

MTBULLET do you know what the laminate offers in comparison to a straight strain of wood like Maple Walnut Beech, by using and or doing a laminate does one still have to make sure the Grain is running straight, or not as much as one would using a single piece of wood?.


Savage 25-06 gun)

 

[Dosh]

25-06, recently bedded a Savage 25-06 for a friend. He bought a Boyd's laminated Tacticool model. He chose the optional Limbasaver pad and nutmeg wood. This stock is super strong and looks great. The inletting was quite loose but the epoxy helped. I don't own a wood or laminate stock, just HS Precision and B&C but was impressed with the strength and stability of the laminate. Good luck

 

[Savage 25-06]

Dosh thanks for your input, always good to hear from others as to what they've seen, used, have, like, or dislike, In the end we all know its our choice, the article I read yesterday that I talked about gave me some new insight, my hope with this post is to give folks a good over view of the components, especially newbies like me so they can come to a fair comparison and hopefully help make their choices a little easier.

I think also it has to do with what we started out with, Me at the age of 56 WOOD, thought laminates were strange, think plastic is as well, and for me I'm just not a fan of the Petroleum based world or buying into it.

Savage 25-06 gun)

 

[shortgrass]

A good synthetic stock is stiff, doesn't have to be cold to make it that way. The 'spongy" ones, like B&C used to make, and the Ramlines might be effected by the cold . But, a McMillian, H-S Precision or new B&C, along with Manners, High Tech Specialties, Brown Precision & Widden Composite are stiff, and that's what you want. Not one that moves around because it's 'spongy'. You haven't a lot of options as far as changing shape and the such with a synthetic. I guess that's why there are so many styles made. The new synthetics are pretty much 'weather-proof'. You can spend hours and hours and try all kinds of different treatments and methods, but because wood is natural material, it will continuely be on the move. Don't get me wrong, I love a beautiful piece of wood and have stocks I've made that others say "that's too pretty to hunt with, I'd be afraid I'd damage it, some how". What did you think of Les Brooks 'tutorial'? My method is a bit newer as I don't use a plane to square things up and I use a drill press and router to do some pre-inletting and excess wood removal. Even if you choose to use the 'Brooks" method, be prepared to spend some $$$$ on tools and/or the time to make what you need. Mine are a mixture of the two, chisels and gouges I've bought (Dastra) and some I've made. Scrapers I've bought and some I've made. Barrel channel tools I've made, can't find any 'good ones' to buy. Pattern makers cabinet rasp/file (Nicholson) and the rat tail, & half round double cut files. The list goes on. I don't think a stockmaker ever gets done making tools. The same applies to serious gunsmiths. There's always another 'tool' that'll make the job go better, faster or easier.

 

[Savage 25-06]

shortgrass, as always thanks for the input, I'm working on an Article; Woods, Laminates or Synthetics, so all this information from others is great in my research of why, how come and likes. I'm also talking to long time stock makers and hope to get this published.

I like Les Brooks, and as like you I would not have to go as primitive as what Les is showing, but I like the series, great information, and thanks for sending it my way.

I have most everything in my wood shop, I know I'll run into needing a few new things.
The one thing I don't have that I want yesterday is a drill press, but If I had everything, then what,lol.

Appreciate hearing from you, thanks.

Savage 25-06gun)

 

[FearNoWind]

1. I know when synthetics get cold they are stiff, now to be honest I don't know what this would do as far as screwing with ones accuracy, except like anything expand and contract, as wood does also.

"Synthetics" is not a singular category. There are many types of synthetics, some even include wood in their composition. Some of the synthetic stocks used in production rifles are really quite flimsy. You can often squeeze the end of the forestock and the barrel together with one hand and bend some of them. You can't do that with my McMillan stock. There are a number of laminated wood stocks that are much stiffer than just plain wood.

The purpose of soaking a wooden stock in testing is to obtain exaggerated data to reveal how they expand and contract with increased moisture. Whether you're in the dessert or a jungle, humidity will have some affect on a wooden stock. How much and in what direction the grain will expand or flex has no constant value. When a synthetic stock changes due to outside influences such as heat, the changes are essentially linear - because there is no "grain".

Synthetic stocks can be "dollar bill" clearance free floated and can still interfere with the barrel's flex and some wooden stocks can be similarly free floated so that when it swells from moisture it interferes in the same way. If you're going to free float a barrel dig a big hole so no amount of atmospheric change will create pressure on the barrel at any point. Bottom line, IMO, is that as long as the action is properly bedded and the barrel properly free floated there isn't enough difference in the stock's affect on the rifle's accuracy to make a solidly sound argument either way.

 

[Savage 25-06]

FearNoWind: I'll be very vigilant in my research, not only getting great feedback from members, but talking with stock makers of all variations, I'm already seeing results that differ from people to people and this is the main reason I wanted to research this for an Article, as stated before I know its choice in the end but my hope is to put together a great piece that will help folks look at every aspect of Stocks, Good, Bad Or Ugly.



Savage 25-06 gun)

"Synthetics" is not a singular category. There are many types of synthetics, some even include wood in their composition. Some of the synthetic stocks used in production rifles are really quite flimsy. You can often squeeze the end of the forestock and the barrel together with one hand and bend some of them. You can't do that with my McMillan stock. There are a number of laminated wood stocks that are much stiffer than just plain wood.

The purpose of soaking a wooden stock in testing is to obtain exaggerated data to reveal how they expand and contract with increased moisture. Whether you're in the dessert or a jungle, humidity will have some affect on a wooden stock. How much and in what direction the grain will expand or flex has no constant value. When a synthetic stock changes due to outside influences such as heat, the changes are essentially linear - because there is no "grain".

Synthetic stocks can be "dollar bill" clearance free floated and can still interfere with the barrel's flex and some wooden stocks can be similarly free floated so that when it swells from moisture it interferes in the same way. If you're going to free float a barrel dig a big hole so no amount of atmospheric change will create pressure on the barrel at any point. Bottom line, IMO, is that as long as the action is properly bedded and the barrel properly free floated there isn't enough difference in the stock's affect on the rifle's accuracy to make a solidly sound argument either way.

 

[shortgrass]

When 'squaring' the top of the blank to the "off cheek piece side" when working from a blank, I just visit my local cabinet maker and use his 8" jointer. It's a lot less labor intensive than using a hand plane. I've considered doing some pre-inletting using my vertical mill, but haven't tried it yet. Maybe when I stock that little Tikka LSA-55 that I've had hangin' around. The trick to free floating the barrel on that wood stock is being able to 'hide' what you've done.

 

[Savage 25-06]

shortgrass: I too, have a friend with a bit more woodworking tools than I, along with him being able to figure things out that I get stumped at, lol.

Which makes me ask (Not knowing) in stock making how would Squaring be achieved with a synthetic Stock, meaning to make a custom stock for self or anyone for the true alignment of the individual.


Savage 25-06 gun)

When 'squaring' the top of the blank to the "off cheek piece side" when working from a blank, I just visit my local cabinet maker and use his 8" jointer. It's a lot less labor intensive than using a hand plane. I've considered doing some pre-inletting using my vertical mill, but haven't tried it yet. Maybe when I stock that little Tikka LSA-55 that I've had hangin' around. The trick to free floating the barrel on that wood stock is being able to 'hide' what you've done.

 

[shortgrass]

Synthetic 'blanks', that I know of, have a shape that's pretty much 'set in stone'. Might be why adjustable cheek pieces and adjustable L.O.P. kits are so popular. I like those 'blanks' made by Brown Precision. They require bedding and at times barrel channel opening/filling. They need to be cut to L.O.P. and a but plate of pad installed. An adjustable cheek piece/L.O.P. kit can be installed, if desired. The outside needs sanding and prep for the paint of your choice. The synthetic blanks I'm familiar with are no where near the same as working wood.

 

[Savage 25-06]

shortgrass Synthetic stocks, what I thought, but I'm still learning so I did not want to post anything not knowing.

Savage 25-06 gun)

Synthetic 'blanks', that I know of, have a shape that's pretty much 'set in stone'. Might be why adjustable cheek pieces and adjustable L.O.P. kits are so popular. I like those 'blanks' made by Brown Precision. They require bedding and at times barrel channel opening/filling. They need to be cut to L.O.P. and a but plate of pad installed. An adjustable cheek piece/L.O.P. kit can be installed, if desired. The outside needs sanding and prep for the paint of your choice. The synthetic blanks I'm familiar with are no where near the same as working wood.