The bottom of the bell housing of this scope is barely resting on the rail. Will this be an issue? From a mounting standpoint, it leveled itself perfectly.
Scope resting on rail
- Thread starter thaught
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codyadams
Well-Known Member
I would personally want to eliminate any and all possible torque. I myself would get a file and file down the three or so pieces that are touching the scope so that there is no contact, then you could just tape off the rest of the rail and spray paint them. Your likely never going to use that section anyway, or even see it much, and you will know if you start having issues down the line, that it's not due to that. I would call that cheap and easy insurance.
WeiserBucks
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I would throw away those vertically split rings before you find out all of the issues they cause . After that I'd purchase the correct rings so you're not putting the scope in a bind .
aushunter1
Well-Known Member
Great idea & that is what I would do as well, apart from either ordering higher rings or 2 piece mounts.
Wont affect the integrity of the rail to drop the height of a few teeth.
The problem with the way it is is that it will feel all the recoil/vibration through the action transferred into the turret housing & the turret mechanism.
Would not take long to destroy the insides imo!
LoneTraveler
Well-Known Member
To have any part of a scope touching the rifle barrel or base is NO NO. With recoil, and handling the rifle, The stress on the scope tube could damage the scope. It could make it not adjust or jump when adjusting the scope. Or cause an air leak, And a fogged scope on a hunt with a 7X7 bull in shooting range.
If the rifle is a hunting rifle or work rifle I like for the scope objective to have enough clearance so scope lens covers go on and off easy too.
If the rifle is a hunting rifle or work rifle I like for the scope objective to have enough clearance so scope lens covers go on and off easy too.
codyadams
Well-Known Member
I concur. The BEST way would be to get new rings that are proper, but the easy way is to modify the rail. If it is just touching, it should only take 10-15 thou or so. I would go .020 to be sure.
johnnyk
Well-Known Member
All good ideas so far. I say get different rings. Those "look" neat but I had a set that got warped and had to throw them out. The leather strap slipped off my shoulder and the rifle (12lbs) hit the carpeted floor, which felt like a concrete slab (was renting at the time) underneath. I shot the rifle immediately and there wasn't enough adjustment (windage) in the scope to get it back to zero. Totally all my fault but those aluminum, split rings lost their integrity and favor in my sight.
It was on a 10MOA picatinny rail (Win70 SA) so I went with Burris Signature, that uses the Delron (?) inserts, and added more MOA.
I just use various 20 MOA rails and Weaver/Picatinny rings now.
It was on a 10MOA picatinny rail (Win70 SA) so I went with Burris Signature, that uses the Delron (?) inserts, and added more MOA.
I just use various 20 MOA rails and Weaver/Picatinny rings now.
70oldsracer
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They look like steel Warne rings to me and since when are they considered a piece of garbage?
Those rings are fine and I've used them for years on several rifles without a hint of problem from any of them.
I wouldn't want the scope touching the rail like that, it has to impart some upward pressure even if it's just kissing. I'd either file the center uprights as mentioned or go to a two piece setup, the steel warne bases would work or the burris picatinny two pieces if they make them for that rifle. Whatever it takes to get the erector assembly not to touch.
I wouldn't want the scope touching the rail like that, it has to impart some upward pressure even if it's just kissing. I'd either file the center uprights as mentioned or go to a two piece setup, the steel warne bases would work or the burris picatinny two pieces if they make them for that rifle. Whatever it takes to get the erector assembly not to touch.
70oldsracer
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Thanks for y'all's advice. I ended up putting on a set of Seekins rings I had and have enough clearance
If it is touching, I'm betting it's getting a slight crush when tightened. Get higher rings and remove a number of variables.
PredatorSlayer
Well-Known Member
If for some crazy reason the scope is barely touching with it mounted in the rings perfectly and there is no torque on the scope because of it, it should be fine. The performance shouldnt be effected and it won't be any harder on the scope. If there is even the slightest bit of torque, it would be a bad thing.
