Savage switch barrel

[1mechanic]

Ok maybe it's just the mechanic in me, but I've been thinking if I set the head space with a go gauge and tighten the barrel nut down to set it up. Couldn't I drill through the barrel nut and slightly into the barrel put a set screw in place and be able to just unscrew the barrel and rescrew the barrel to the same head space? Sort of like making the barrel nut a permanent shoulder?

 

[can1010]

been doing that for years. I use 3 set screws and a little blue Loctite.

 

[FEENIX]

Ok maybe it's just the mechanic in me, but I've been thinking if I set the head space with a go gauge and tighten the barrel nut down to set it up. Couldn't I drill through the barrel nut and slightly into the barrel put a set screw in place and be able to just unscrew the barrel and rescrew the barrel to the same head space? Sort of like making the barrel nut a permanent shoulder?

You do not need to drill the barrel nut; a good permanent thread glue will do the same. Regardless of how you decide to secure the barrel nut onto the barrel and act as a shoulder, you still need to check the headspace to ensure it has not moved on you, but that's just me.

 

[can1010]

if you put one set screw on the centerline of the bottom of your action to act as an indicator mark for headspace. using a rear entry action wrench and barrel vice makes for easy in field barrel changes and don't even have to remove scope.

 

[FrogFire7]

I've thought about doing this for years. Seems like it's be fine as long as you don't torque too much. I also considered red loctite

 

[can1010]

believe it or not but you don't need that much torque 35-50 ft.lbs. is enough if the treads are clean. also remember all tread lockers will soften with heat and if you rely on that alone your headspace will consistently change. even one set screw is good insurance and piece of mind that things are the same as the last time that barrel was installed.

 

[1mechanic]

Don't think I want to use red loctite would never be able to get it apart without lots of heat Lol. Thanks for the responses.

if you put one set screw on the centerline of the bottom of your action to act as an indicator mark for headspace. using a rear entry action wrench and barrel vice makes for easy in field barrel changes and don't even have to remove scope.

This is what I've been thinking about.

Just want to drill into the barrel enough to remove the threads to have a flat spot for the set screw to tighten up against. That way if I ever want to remove the set screw and nut I don't have any flattened threads to galled.

 

[can1010]

it works out great. the only disadvantage is now the barrel is action specific if that is a problem.

 

[1mechanic]

Yes but that's why they make more barrels

 

[FEENIX]

Yes but that's why they make more barrels

For this same reason, I do not do switch barrels.

 

[can1010]

multiple actions and multiple barrels for each, man I have a lot of barrels but hell you only live once.

 

[FEENIX]

multiple actions and multiple barrels for each, man I have a lot of barrels but hell you only live once.

LOL, yep!

 

[nksmfamjp]

Why not get it where you want it and dimple barrel to nut and nut to action?

 

[QuietTexan]

Why bother drilling or dimpling? Put a PAIR of witness marks on and run it. Action to nut, nut to barrel, done.