Rem 700 side bolt stop/release?

I'm thinkin' this is on the Australian end. In the past, you could ship $100 worth of parts without declaring. Now, since firearms export has been moved to the Commerce Dept, the threshold has been raised to $500. It would take a little time, but for the few you want you could mill 'um out yourself. Not as easy as buying already made, but it may become your only option. If I remember correctly, you're an engineer. Shouldn't be a huge problem, just consume a bit of machine time. It wouldn't be like making a rifled barrel!
Well, I am not an engineer of that type, Engine Reconditioner/Machinist by trade.
Problem is, I have nothing to copy, and to be honest, the rifles in question are 416 Stainless and I don't know of a heat treat that would be suitable in stainless. Surely the parts are heat treated so no galling occurs?
I may be overthinking this about a heat treat, but I don't want any issues.
This banning of shipping to Australia is very confusing, it makes no difference what the item is, none of my magazines I subscribe to have arrived in months.
Anyway, I do have a mate that is set-up for scanning in 3D and a CNC mill multi axis that can make a program.

Cheers.
 
I forgot to add a link...

****, now I have to have this external bolt release on my Rem 6.5 CM. I've already tricked out my RPR .308 with their products plus tinkered with the bolt to make it smoother to lift. Will it never end, the lust for more neat stuff?
 
I'd just make one. I ran into this problem a few years ago where I needed one in a hurry and everyone was out of stock on them. I took some measurements off the receiver, made up a drawing of what the bolt stop needed to look like with dimensions. I then took a 6" long piece of 1.375" 17-4 ph stainless steel and on my manual mill I machined a sort of bolt stop "bar stock" I then use a lay down bandsaw to cut the individual parts out of the bar stock. Stick it in the mill vice and face off to correct width, drill the hole for the pin and bam you have yourself a bolt stop. I've tinkered with using a fly cutter with a specially ground hss tool bit in it to cut the knurled portion or you can just leave it smooth which is what I prefer. Pins and springs can be scourced locally and no need to heat treat as 17-4 ph is extremely tough stuff already and should fall just a few points of hardness beneath what your bolt should be so no worries about galling. I've fired thousands of rounds through the action I first made one for and its still running beautifully
 
I'd just make one. I ran into this problem a few years ago where I needed one in a hurry and everyone was out of stock on them. I took some measurements off the receiver, made up a drawing of what the bolt stop needed to look like with dimensions. I then took a 6" long piece of 1.375" 17-4 ph stainless steel and on my manual mill I machined a sort of bolt stop "bar stock" I then use a lay down bandsaw to cut the individual parts out of the bar stock. Stick it in the mill vice and face off to correct width, drill the hole for the pin and bam you have yourself a bolt stop. I've tinkered with using a fly cutter with a specially ground hss tool bit in it to cut the knurled portion or you can just leave it smooth which is what I prefer. Pins and springs can be scourced locally and no need to heat treat as 17-4 ph is extremely tough stuff already and should fall just a few points of hardness beneath what your bolt should be so no worries about galling. I've fired thousands of rounds through the action I first made one for and its still running beautifully
20220209_100103.jpg

Here's what's left of a piece of of the stock I made with some 2" stainless round bar I had laying around. If you do it in shorter lengths you can get away with drilling and reaming the pin hole through the whole piece and still keep it reasonably straight
 
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