Reloading question

[emp1953]

Make sure you Chamfer and Debur the Case Mouth.
If there is burr's inside the mouth your sizing button will drag.
Before I switched to mandrels, I would use Emery cloth and smooth the button a little. Just a thought.

I do chamfer inside and out. I'll try polishing the button and see if it helps, along with a little graphite.

 

[LongRangeRookie]

I am reloading 6.5Creedmoor, virgin Starline brass. Using new RCBS dies. My finished cartridges will not fit into my Lyman go no-go gauge. The new cases did fit before I started the process. Someone told me that if the neck sizer button was hard to pull out then I was probably changing the shoulder angle on the case. It was a bit hard to remove. Just a note: the finished cartridges chamber in the rifle with VERY little resistance. This is a new rifle so I was attributing the little bit of stiffness to being new. If this is the cause then how do I lessen the resistance of the neck sizer button so I don't change the shoulder inadvertently. Do I polish the sizer button smooth?
Do I lube the case neck? If lube, then what lube will not degrade powder?
Do I need the neck sizer button at all on new cases, I was just trying to true up the necks to make bullet seating easier?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

The question I have is how do the bullets look ? Does the diameter of the bullet match the specs diameter? I have had variations in bullets cause problems (typically straight wall pistol calibers).
When you run the finished case in the gauge where is it contacting ? A new case can show a very slight "scratch" in the sidewall if its contacting the sidewall and the case with catch in the gauge using some finger pressure. If the case drops in the gauge easily and hits a hard stop but still drops out easily it can signify some sort of length issue or shoulder issue - I have seen that before with sizing problems (shoulder bulge or shoulder length issue), but usually not with new brass. You can also use calipers to dimensionally check the brass and compare it to the book (most loading books will proved case dimensions for each round for reference)

 

[Sdvldog1371]

As I'm reading your post, you have brand new brass, it fits your case gauge. You then proceeded to size the brass in a full length sizing die and now they don't fit the case gauge? It sounds like you sized a case which changes the case dimensions....what's the issue? If you're die wasn't down far enough, you probably squeezed the brass down a hair, and the case grew....as it normally would. If it chambers, Shoot it. Just make sure your bullet isn't jammed and your initial powder charge is a mild - slightly moderate charge.

Out of curiosity, is this your first time reloading?

 

[spladi]

I am reloading 6.5Creedmoor, virgin Starline brass. Using new RCBS dies. My finished cartridges will not fit into my Lyman go no-go gauge. The new cases did fit before I started the process. Someone told me that if the neck sizer button was hard to pull out then I was probably changing the shoulder angle on the case. It was a bit hard to remove. Just a note: the finished cartridges chamber in the rifle with VERY little resistance. This is a new rifle so I was attributing the little bit of stiffness to being new. If this is the cause then how do I lessen the resistance of the neck sizer button so I don't change the shoulder inadvertently. Do I polish the sizer button smooth?
Do I lube the case neck? If lube, then what lube will not degrade powder?
Do I need the neck sizer button at all on new cases, I was just trying to true up the necks to make bullet seating easier?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

You can turn the case necks to a uniform thickness which will make bullet seating and neck resizing with anything easier as well as improve accuracy. I agree also with the reading recommendation and with others, that learning how to use your measuring tools properly is mandatory.
Reloading is a great and very gratifying pastime that has limitless opportunities to achieve perfect ammo for all your guns.

 

[emp1953]

As I'm reading your post, you have brand new brass, it fits your case gauge. You then proceeded to size the brass in a full length sizing die and now they don't fit the case gauge? It sounds like you sized a case which changes the case dimensions....what's the issue? If you're die wasn't down far enough, you probably squeezed the brass down a hair, and the case grew....as it normally would. If it chambers, Shoot it. Just make sure your bullet isn't jammed and your initial powder charge is a mild - slightly moderate charge.

Out of curiosity, is this your first time reloading?

I've been reloading since 1970. Bullets are all the correct diameter, Nosler Accubond.

 

[Rflshootr]

Get a nylon bore brush, put a small amount of case lube on it, run it in and out of the necks twice and turn the brush after the first and before the second. If there is a dry spot, that will help lube the inside of the neck evenly. Lube the outside and size. Then take a q-tip and run it around the inside of the neck to remove any excess lube. The tiny amount left will help the bullet seat smoothly.

 

[emp1953]

Ok a note to me from Lyman said to drop new unprocessed brass into the ammo checker and see how it goes. I just got in a batch and tried 50 of them and they all did the same thing the loaded cases did. Maybe I don't understand what this checker is supposed to do. I have another query into Lyman with this photo.

 

[Ark. Trapper]

That is all the proof you need that the gauge is a waste of time and money. The rounds clambering in your rifle is all that truly matters.

 

[emp1953]

I hate it when I get wrapped around the axle of a problem that doesn't exist. It will be interesting to see what Lyman says though, their photos show the case base even with the top of the gauge.

 

[emp1953]

Mystery solved. There was two small nicks in the top of the gauge. They kept the case from going in all the way. I used my neck reamer on it and it fixed the problem. So all my ammo is good to go according to the gauge, but I knew it anyway because it all chambered fine in the rifle.

 

[LongRangeRookie]

Mystery solved. There was two small nicks in the top of the gauge. They kept the case from going in all the way. I used my neck reamer on it and it fixed the problem. So all my ammo is good to go according to the gauge, but I knew it anyway because it all chambered fine in the rifle.

I have had similar issues with different loads (pistol and rifle). I use the case gauge to validate all of my loads fit. That goes for all of the loads that I assemble.
I would rather have an issues with the gauge for the first rounds in my load process than find an issue at the range and then have to check/rework a whole batch. I typically don't check new bare cases, but I do check new brass as a last step in my loading sequence. For pistols I have found belling issues and "glocked" cases, for rifle cases I found multiple sizing issues. I have been able to verify the loaded rounds fit the "standard" before getting to the range where they don't chamber.
When I find a problem on the bench I stop until I can pinpoint the problem and drive a solution, which I have done multiple times.