Reloading for Novices

[JesseWayne]

I am about 150 rounds in to loading for my 30-06. I have decided to start hand loading for a 25-06 and my trusty H&R .444 Marlin.
I am not looking for shooting an animal at 1000 yards. I have killed a bobcat at 565 yards, this being my best shot with a remington 700 SPS in 308. I am looking for advice on the most important techniques for loafing accurate and repeatable ammunition for less than 600 yards:

 

[g0rd0]

consistency, use only 1 brand of brass. I then deprime, clean, resize then trim every time.
When I add powder I throw into my scale pan then trickle up to the exact weight. After the rounds have been loaded I check the OAL.
Some only neck size (myself I neck size) and have found there to be no difference in accuracy. But after 5 shots I aneal then FL size.
The 2 reasons for me neck sizing, first the brass lasts longer, second it takes less effort to neck size and no lube to clean off

 

[g0rd0]

consistency, use only 1 brand of brass. I then deprime, clean, resize then trim every time.
When I add powder I throw into my scale pan then trickle up to the exact weight. After the rounds have been loaded I check the OAL.
Some only neck size (myself I neck size) and have found there to be no difference in accuracy. But after 5 shots I aneal then FL size.
The 2 reasons for me neck sizing, first the brass lasts longer, second it takes less effort to neck size and no lube to clean off

1 more thing, I never crimp

 

[RT2506]

One thing I will add to the above is to de-burr the inside of the case flash hole. Lyman makes a good universal tool that is less expensive. Removing this punched burr allows the primer flash to light the powder more consistently and thus adds accuracy. At least it has for me. Another thing that will help you find accurate loads quickly is to get a Sierra loading manual and try their Accuracy loads they list for each of their bullets. It usually works with any bullet of the same weight. I will share my experience with the 25-06 with you. Three loads that usually works with most any rifle.
100 gr bulllet, 52 grs IMR4350 and I like CCIBR-2 primers and load them between 10 and 20 thousands off the lands. Your rifle will tell you what it likes.
115 to 117 gr bullet. 52 grs H4831 or the SC version, CCI BR2 primer, or 49 grs IMR 4350 with CCI 250 mag primers. I really like the 117 Sierra Pro Hunter flat base bullet for deer. Very accurate and it kills deer in their tracks. Good luck and have fun.

 

[Dosh]

JW, +1 on the consistency. As you progress with your loading technique you will learn what works and what doesn't. Many tool will be replaced and accuracy will improve. Unless a very experienced reloader teaches you, it will be a long bumpy road. Picking up tips and reading all you find here and on the net will help. Ask questions, even if you think they are stupid. They are not and may enlighten your understanding. Your goals will be conquered and surpassed. Good luck

 

[PowellSixO]

Consistency. Same brass, same primers, same powder, same case prep, using a mechanical scale to weigh powder, and getting consistent seating depth of your bullets. I think a bullet comparator is something that is a must for getting accurate rounds. The length of a bullet can vary as much as .020" - .030" from one to another, due to imperfections in the tip of a bullet. So if you measure your overal cartridge length from the base of the case to the tip of the bullet, you can change the distance the bullet is from the lands up to .020" - .030" between rounds. That can make a big difference in some rifles. A bullet comparator lets you measure from the ogive of the bullet to the base of the case. This measurement is much more consistent and allows for much less variance in cartridge lenth from one round to the next. A bullet comparator kit is pretty cheap too. Hope this helps.