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Re-Sizing 7mm STW Brass

General RE LEE

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Aug 21, 2020
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1,412
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Middle Tennessee
I have reloaded my 7mm STW for a couple years. I use Hornady dies, full length resize, bump shoulder back two thousands and trim to spec.

Am I missing any important steps? I've seen some interesting threads about belted magnum brass and re-sizing.
 
I have reloaded my 7mm STW for a couple years. I use Hornady dies, full length resize, bump shoulder back two thousands and trim to spec.

Am I missing any important steps? I've seen some interesting threads about belted magnum brass and re-sizing.
Well you know the old cliche about opinions dont you?
Most important thing is are you satisfied with your results?
If so then be happy, regardless of other opinions.
First thing you know somebody will recommend you sell the gun and buy a 6.5 Crymore. lol
 
Im depriming...annealing, Larry Willis Collett die sizing, bump shoulder back 2 thousandths on cases fire formed to my chamber with rcbs die, expander die incase of donuts and then neck sizing with le wilson die..dunno if it's the best way but it works for me....
 
I have reloaded my 7mm STW for a couple years. I use Hornady dies, full length resize, bump shoulder back two thousands and trim to spec.

Am I missing any important steps? I've seen some interesting threads about belted magnum brass and re-sizing.
I'm assuming this question is due to short case life ?


on any cartridge , belted or not , I'll neck size only until I get my brass tight to chamber . " THEN " I set my die up to resize and only push the shoulder back about .002" . if you're setting the die up on brass that is not fully expanded , you're oversizing the brass .

I don't have a STW , but I do have a few belted case rifles . most of these will stretch the brass case about .015" , when comparing virgin to fully expanded . you can try to form a false shoulder on the virgin brass for the first fire . this should help case life by blowing the case shoulder forward instead of stretching the brass case just in front of the belt .

if you have short case life due to loose primer pockets . you can buy better brass or back the load down some . or keep feeding it new brass often . not much else you can do on this problem .
 
I'm assuming this question is due to short case life ?


on any cartridge , belted or not , I'll neck size only until I get my brass tight to chamber . " THEN " I set my die up to resize and only push the shoulder back about .002" . if you're setting the die up on brass that is not fully expanded , you're oversizing the brass .

I don't have a STW , but I do have a few belted case rifles . most of these will stretch the brass case about .015" , when comparing virgin to fully expanded . you can try to form a false shoulder on the virgin brass for the first fire . this should help case life by blowing the case shoulder forward instead of stretching the brass case just in front of the belt .

if you have short case life due to loose primer pockets . you can buy better brass or back the load down some . or keep feeding it new brass often . not much else you can do on this problem .

I FL size only. Case head separation above the belt is my nemesis. I anneal my brass at my range's AMP annealer so my necks are always in good shape. I don't load too hot so primer pockets are usually good.
 
sounds like you have two problems under control .

try forming a false shoulder on your next batch of new brass . you'll only do this on the first fire . this should help with the first fire stretch .


then try neck sizing until your brass gets tight , then set up your full length die on that brass . if you don't have a neck die , you can back off the full length die between 1/8 - 1/4 turn . this should allow the case to grow until it's tight to chamber .

here's a write up from Peterson brass on the reasons behind them making 300 win long brass .
 
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