totally depends on what you are trying to do
1 Custom Whidden sizing die, forster honed full length sizing die
wilson in line seater die
2. Lapua
3. PMA tools neck turner model A
4. Forster co-ax read the reviews
Quality Reloading/Handloading Components?
- Thread starter pushcoguy
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
totally depends on what you are trying to do
1 Custom Whidden sizing die, forster honed full length sizing die
wilson in line seater die
2. Lapua
3. PMA tools neck turner model A
4. Forster co-ax read the reviews
That Co-ax press is something that I liked the looks of, from the start. I've never had enough spare coin though, to pick one up.
Thank you for the reply. I'll look into the Mod A turner.
The press should have a positive stop to get perfect head to ogive measurements.
1. Reddings Competition bullet seating die can be adjusted to contact the shell holder, lightly.
2. Lee makes a dead length bullet seater that gets adjusted to contact the shell holder also.
3. Make sure the seating stem contacts the ogive of the bullet and not the tip. Some long pointed VLD or even some Hornady bullets will seat using the tip of the bullet. If this happens, the bullet may not be seated straight.
When the shell holder and seating die make contact, its said to make for a consistent OAL.
This can be done when FL sizing and controlling shoulder set back. Redding competition shell holder sets remove the slop in a reloading press, when FL die and shell holder make contact.
I don't bother with the above, as a variation of .005" maximum is ok with me.
Buzzsaw
Well-Known Member
I think some of us go to way to much trouble in their reloading process. IMO and I know I'm in the minority here. but my rifle group really well as far as I need to shoot, 800 yards (my longest). I DO believe in buying the BEST equipment I can afford, including my rifles.
1. Redding and Whidden dies.
2. lapua, Norma, Nosler, Hornady, in that order
3. do not turn necks
4. Redding Big Boss II
not mentioned, Giuard Trimmer
1. Redding and Whidden dies.
2. lapua, Norma, Nosler, Hornady, in that order
3. do not turn necks
4. Redding Big Boss II
not mentioned, Giuard Trimmer
1) Redding Dies; Lee Classic Cast press
2) Lapua. No one else close. (40 reloadings on 30BR Lapua brass is not uncommon.)
3) 21st Century is the best I have seen for neck turning.
I have 3 complete systems; 30BR, 6.5-284, and 6BRDX
4) I selected the Lee Classic Cast, because one of the world's top precision bullet makers uses it exclusively to make his bullets due to its ability to produce minimal runout.
(And yes, I am a benchrest shooter, not a hunter)
Last edited:
Hornady comparator and a GOOD micrometer.
If you do multiple calibers, I suggest marking the inserts with the actual caliber. Once I mixed up a 6mm insert with a 6.5 insert and had to pull a LOT of bullets. So now I have holders for all my calibers.
1- Best Dyes, Redding. Sinclair/Wilson tools.
2-Lapua, and Norma brass
3-I don't turn necks
4-I have used a RCBS Rockchucker for over 45 years. Still perfect and produces benchrest grade ammo!
2-Lapua, and Norma brass
3-I don't turn necks
4-I have used a RCBS Rockchucker for over 45 years. Still perfect and produces benchrest grade ammo!
Trickymissfit
Well-Known Member
if you look at my bench and the shelf above it, you will see some RCBS dies with dust all over the boxes. Some Redding junk that ought to be sold on Ebay. Some Lyman M Series dies; which I like for my revolvers. Two or three sets of Lee collet dies from an experiment that didn't pan out. Some Hornaday junk, and a bunch of Forster dies that I use all the time. Add to this several sets of Wilson inline dies.
For a press I own four. A Co-Ax (the Cadillac), a small RCBS Partner I use for some small jobs that come about with case forming. A K&M arbor press for things serious. Lastly a Mec 650 shotgun press.
I don't own a beam scale, and probably never will again. I own three Pacts, and will often set two up side by side. Also own a digital powder dispenser, but rarely take it out of the box. I throw my charges with a Lyman #55 that has been reworked slightly. For serious precision work, I use my Harrell Culver measurer.
I prime cases with a K&M primer tool. Just the best! Still I prime hand gun ammunition with the Co-Ax 80% of the time. Very consistent, but not target quality.
Have three or four Forster deburr tools that are set up for odd jobs I hate doing. Like cleaning primer pockets. I trim most all my cases with a Wilson. Just the best. I turn necks with a Sinclair outfit. Works OK, but may buy a K&M someday. I do not use the Sinclair mandrels, but make my own. Cutting head has been reground and the shape changed. Not perfect, but better than the OEM one. I also use K&M primer pocket reamers, but I'm looking for something about .00075" small in diameter.
I buy good measuring tools from the start. No Chinese stuff! My indicators are Interrapid or B&S Best Test. Nothing better. Own a Neco gauge, and a couple home built gauges. All use wand type indicators, and are very accurate. Own several sets of calipers. Some digital and some analog. I find myself using a 4" pair of Mitutoyo's more than any of the others. No dead batteries.
gary
For a press I own four. A Co-Ax (the Cadillac), a small RCBS Partner I use for some small jobs that come about with case forming. A K&M arbor press for things serious. Lastly a Mec 650 shotgun press.
I don't own a beam scale, and probably never will again. I own three Pacts, and will often set two up side by side. Also own a digital powder dispenser, but rarely take it out of the box. I throw my charges with a Lyman #55 that has been reworked slightly. For serious precision work, I use my Harrell Culver measurer.
I prime cases with a K&M primer tool. Just the best! Still I prime hand gun ammunition with the Co-Ax 80% of the time. Very consistent, but not target quality.
Have three or four Forster deburr tools that are set up for odd jobs I hate doing. Like cleaning primer pockets. I trim most all my cases with a Wilson. Just the best. I turn necks with a Sinclair outfit. Works OK, but may buy a K&M someday. I do not use the Sinclair mandrels, but make my own. Cutting head has been reground and the shape changed. Not perfect, but better than the OEM one. I also use K&M primer pocket reamers, but I'm looking for something about .00075" small in diameter.
I buy good measuring tools from the start. No Chinese stuff! My indicators are Interrapid or B&S Best Test. Nothing better. Own a Neco gauge, and a couple home built gauges. All use wand type indicators, and are very accurate. Own several sets of calipers. Some digital and some analog. I find myself using a 4" pair of Mitutoyo's more than any of the others. No dead batteries.
gary
Thank you for all of the input. You guys have mentioned names a terms that I am not even remotely familiar with. That's a good thing. I can look into some of these things, and see what make since for me.
Ok, so on the neck turning. Those of you who turn necks, what kind of results have you been getting (as compared to brass that hasn't been turned). Those of you who don't, what is the reasoning behind that? I've read recently that accuracy can be "greatly" improved by turning the necks. Is this not true, or maybe your brass is of such high quality that turning is unnecessary? Or maybe, like me, you just haven't thought it necessary yet.?.?
Thanks again
Ok, so on the neck turning. Those of you who turn necks, what kind of results have you been getting (as compared to brass that hasn't been turned). Those of you who don't, what is the reasoning behind that? I've read recently that accuracy can be "greatly" improved by turning the necks. Is this not true, or maybe your brass is of such high quality that turning is unnecessary? Or maybe, like me, you just haven't thought it necessary yet.?.?
Thanks again
Usually go with Forster or Redding dies but I like the Hornady seating dies. Some of my Hornady seater plugs are custom formed with epoxy for a specific bullet to avoid scaring the bullet
I have found the Forster Co-Ax press unmatched for producing concentric rounds. Flyers are much less common after switching to the Co-Ax a few years back. Still use the rock chucker for pistol rounds
I use various brass and generally have good results if unmixed, weight matched and necks turned. I will find a good price for a particular caliber and pick up enough to last for years and never mix in another make. I keep the fired brass in separate containers based on the number of times they have been fired.
Lapua - very good but those I have worked with seem to require more frequent annealing.
Hornady - Good but usually have to weight sort them and the belts on the 300 win mag can be higher and bind if your chamber tolerances are close.
Norma - the most consistent in my experience.
Federal - I have had great results using WSM Federal brass.
Could go on but just demonstrating the need to carefully sort the brass to improve results, regardless of brand.
I have found the Forster Co-Ax press unmatched for producing concentric rounds. Flyers are much less common after switching to the Co-Ax a few years back. Still use the rock chucker for pistol rounds
I use various brass and generally have good results if unmixed, weight matched and necks turned. I will find a good price for a particular caliber and pick up enough to last for years and never mix in another make. I keep the fired brass in separate containers based on the number of times they have been fired.
Lapua - very good but those I have worked with seem to require more frequent annealing.
Hornady - Good but usually have to weight sort them and the belts on the 300 win mag can be higher and bind if your chamber tolerances are close.
Norma - the most consistent in my experience.
Federal - I have had great results using WSM Federal brass.
Could go on but just demonstrating the need to carefully sort the brass to improve results, regardless of brand.
1) Whidden dies are probably the slickest dies I have seen in my life. Most times they are so smooth you need very little lube.
2) Nosler brass. Out of all the brass they are the most consistent in weight, neck thickness, and last forever if you Anneal.
3) 21st century reloading has the best lathe neck turning tool on the market.
4) Harrell precision has the most concentric presses on the market. I have tried different presses and most are good but Harrell is precise.
I also Anneal after every firing (20 reloads on nosler and still going), throw charges on RCBS 1500, then get down to the kernel on my Sartorius entris 323-1s, rotate cases as I seat bullets, check concentricity on my Hornady concentricity tool (usually have no more than .001 run-out).
I too started small and bought every press brand, die brand, scale brand, ect and this is the best I have found. The 21st century items like super precision primer and lathe kit are to die for.
2) Nosler brass. Out of all the brass they are the most consistent in weight, neck thickness, and last forever if you Anneal.
3) 21st century reloading has the best lathe neck turning tool on the market.
4) Harrell precision has the most concentric presses on the market. I have tried different presses and most are good but Harrell is precise.
I also Anneal after every firing (20 reloads on nosler and still going), throw charges on RCBS 1500, then get down to the kernel on my Sartorius entris 323-1s, rotate cases as I seat bullets, check concentricity on my Hornady concentricity tool (usually have no more than .001 run-out).
I too started small and bought every press brand, die brand, scale brand, ect and this is the best I have found. The 21st century items like super precision primer and lathe kit are to die for.
Last edited:
