Pretty sure it's a newb question..

[rscott5028]

I also don't think it's a given that you necessarily need to anneal.

For example, you might start with good brass such as Lapua.

Shoot moderate loads in moderate cartridges and be kind to your brass.

Then, when you think it's time to anneal, stockpile the old and buy new brass.

New brass means starting over with your brass prep/culling. But, these are choices you make depending on your shooting requirements and objectives.

There are costs to buy, prep, fireform new brass and costs associated with annealing.

If you conclude it's better or more cost effective to anneal, then it needs to be done right. Or, you've gained nothing.

Annealing just hasn't logistically been an option for me for a while. So, I'm accumulating a lot of brass.

-- richard

 

[tuxdad]

AFter this first time attempt at annealing for my hornet brass, I'm sorely tempted to just buy new brass..

With a known good load, and using this annealed brass, my accuracy went through the floor.. There was no real groups to be considered.. My groups wih this load before annealing was around .5", but these new rounds were more like 2 - 3" @ 100 yds..

I'm wondering if the brass being so thin with the hornet has anything to do with it ??

 

[Mikecr]

My sentiments about it mirror Richards.
I do it before fireforming, and pretty much manage without it onward.

Rational clearances, pressures, sizing, and case design = little need to anneal

 

[tuxdad]

My sentiments about it mirror Richards.
I do it before fireforming, and pretty much manage without it onward.

Rational clearances, pressures, sizing, and case design = little need to anneal

Do you still happen to have an occasional split case from time to time even with moderate, and low end loads ??

 

[rscott5028]

Do you still happen to have an occasional split case from time to time even with moderate, and low end loads ??

not in the last 25+ years

 

[Mikecr]

I've never had a case fail.
I do set pieces aside that no longer hold a normal shoulder bump, or show abnormal seating forces.
These will be stress relieved when/if I do the whole batch.

The qualifiers:
-I don't mess with used factory brass at all
-I don't run excess pressures
-My cartridges include reduced body taper, higher shoulder angles(except my 223s)
-I don't FL size -ever, but minimally/partially body/neck size with custom dies
-my chambers are not loose

The benefits:
-Little to no trimming
-No need for annealing
-very low runout
-no donut forming
-very consistent neck tension
-very consistent H20 capacities
-seemingly endless brass life
-Very low ES
-easy case extraction
-below and consistent 1/2moa with every gun I've had

 

[tuxdad]

Are you trimming your brass to min case length or the max length, or just just trimming when they reach max case length and sorting by lots ??

 

[Mikecr]

I trim/form to within 5thou of chamber end if I can.
My minimum desired length is 10thou from chamber end, again, if I can.
Beyond this I just take em all to the same length.

It's not always simple there.
I want case mouths as close to chamber end as possible to reduce ES(sooting side effect). But fireforming usually reduces length a few thou as the necks are pulled backward by forming shoulders.
So when I can trim new brass to just kissing chamber end, it fireforms backward to MY max length, and I never mess with it again. I never have to.

Those who COW fireform can trim to slightly crimp on chambering, and their mouths snap back into tight clearances. This is appropriate with formed wildcats that will never see further body sizing, and so they will never need further trimming.
Also, if you run a very fast powder cartridge, trim length can be shorter without penalty, because necks will seal fast enough anyway. This is not hunting cartridges/bullets though, but more like BR cartridges/bullets.