Pressure problem

Dean2 said:
NO!!!!! One that will NEVER work, 2 there are correct ways of doing this and that isn't one of them. There is an actual tool that makes removing these very easy and does no damage. A brass cleaning brush has often been used to remove these as a home remedy.

My advice, take it to a gunsmith and have him remove it. Get him to figure out why you have enough head space to cause head separation on factory ammo, or send it back to Savage and make them fix it. Most home remedies are just going to invalidate any warranty coverage..

Just one example, Brownelles has other tools for cases that may be stuck tighter.

www.brownells.com

BROWNELLS BROKEN SHELL EXTRACTOR

Check out BROWNELLS BROKEN SHELL EXTRACTOR with 30 reviews and an overall rating of 3.8, available Online at Brownells Today and many more Gun Barrel Tools products are available in our Tools & Cleaning Department.
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www.brownells.com

BROWNELLS STUCK CASE PULLER COLLETS

Check out BROWNELLS STUCK CASE PULLER COLLETS with 6 reviews and an overall rating of 4.8, available Online at Brownells Today and many more Gun Barrel Tools products are available in our Tools & Cleaning Department.
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Click to expand...
Sending it back to Savage sounds best
 
What? 300 WinMag? 700s? Rimfires? Separated cases?

This thread has derailed and fallen into a ravine.
Has opie solved his problem yet?
 
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Barrelnut said:
CA might not do anything since the barrel fires factory ammo just fine...
@BK6x47L mentions the die you need in post #20.
It was a die made by Larry Willis, but I believe he passed on a couple years ago and the dies are no longer made. You might find one in the classifieds on some of the gun forums.

You can get some small base dies custom made...

Below is a link to one of the dies that sold on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256904554201?itmmeta=01JSNE4SN9SBCGNBWR78JY3Q61&hash=item3bd0b466d9:g:eS8AAOSwatZoCYZj&itmprp=enc:AQAKAAAA4MHg7L1Zz0LA5DYYmRTS30m4f2X9i/KJi1LRYzam6pudQavok8AhT--YwlEYahcrnT6gydziD+QwBeSkVKcBG7rJYnOhqiIcY39m8wdgHygea+GVS1w14vjLsJZsnK6sXNLL5QzoDZcES89aJRKv4XiFKahXnzcgVtvu4QvDmyEhAvNmfs4t9J474pQNMqYLIYHGE5ahl/1J5EMbflA7QN3EMdHG9a4DP4md88aTYwQ+AxnYbUb/Hm+Rs4dbpmgWKJhoseRPOoY6qi/iupOyQn6R9Wt1m7+NEGpV+AArFN1A|tkp:Bk9SR-Sak67NZQ
Click to expand...
Actually, the Larry Wills die is still very much alive, with no horrendous wait, once ordered. I ordered one last week and received it in 4-5 days. It works as advertised.
 
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Barrelnut said:
GREAT! Can you give us the website where we can order them?

Here's Larry's memorial page...
https://www.dignitymemorial.com/obituaries/altamonte-springs-fl/larry-willis-10853827
Click to expand...
It's now being sold by Reloading Technologies at www.larrywillis.com
Barrelnut said:
GREAT! Can you give us the website where we can order them?

Here's Larry's memorial page...
https://www.dignitymemorial.com/obituaries/altamonte-springs-fl/larry-willis-10853827
Click to expand...
it's now being sold by Reloading Technologies for $139.99 at www.larrywillis.com

Larry may have passed, but the die named for him lives on.
 
Lefty57 said:
The problem I am having is way above my head, i have a 300WM that shoots great as long as I use new brass or factory ammo. I am having pressure issues with my resized & reload brass. Does not matter what brand, have tried Nosler, Peterson & Hornady all 3 work great on 1st time. I have 3 different FL resizing dies I have tried. I am not loading any extreme, 180gr at 2885, using H-4831 and R-23 with CCI-250's. I have tried 3 different factory loads with some 100fps faster than mine and they work perfect.
I have another CA 300WM I load for with no issues.
It is a CA so I know they can have issues, the gun shoots really good so I will use unfired brass to hunt, I would like to understand why this is happening if someone can help.
I have pushed the shoulder back to what the new brass measures with no success.
I am no pro but I load a bunch so I don't need to be told the basis loading procedures, this is a problem that a professional I think will only be able to solve.
Click to expand...
Coordinating shoulder bump, when required and resizing a belted case can be difficult.....I've used two different dies to accomplish this.
 
Jasbo said:
I agree with Magnum; you should NOT even think about bumping shoulders back on once fired cases. Neck size only until your bolt close requires greater force. F-Class shooters mislead we hunters with their bump 2 thousandths after each firing dogma.
Click to expand...
I disagree, consistency is key to accuracy. I bump it back 2 thou from the case with the longest datum length, to minimize working of the brass, on once fired brass.
I only neck size brass thats had bullets pulled to put back neck tension.
 
Shockingly enough I could just be the action itself. Titanium actions in my experience false pressure signs. Actions that are not "true" will also create false pressure signs. If your locking lugs on your bolt are off set and not true you will get false pressure signs. If your firing pin spring and or firing pin drags it will create pressure signs. So there is a very long list of what it is. But if I had to bet it's not the load work up it's actually a crap action .
 
Not saying you have a titanium action, was just trying to give reasons to what and why it might be. Most people will blame load work, which most of the time it is. Bad barrel, typically falls second. But no one truly looks at the action, and the action is the focal plane of actual accuracy. You can have a bad load that still shoots under 1 moa consistently. But you can have the best load and if your action isn't correct you won't break 1 moa.
 
yes it is in fact titanium action and yes I do think I have a "crap action"
yesterday I took 6 re-sized cases that will jam bolt in problem gun and actually increased charge by
3% on another CA 300wm not titanium and got 120fps increase with zero problems...thanks
 

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