Pillar bedding tips?

[Litehiker]

Recently I re-stocked my 6.5 Creedmoor Ruger American Predator with a Boyd's Classic laminated stock. It's beautiful, especially with the perfectly laser cut fish scale checkering. And the Timney trigger is the icing on the cake.

But when I tightened the rear action bolt it impinged onto cartridge bolt and I had to cut it down 1/4" to be safe.

This rifle needs pillar bedding so does anyone have any tips for me? (I plan to use JB Weld to secure them.)

Eric B.

 

[eklarsen]

Look at a company called Scorehigh, they sell a kit with the pillars, epoxy and good instructions. Its quite simple really, I have done several.

 

[Litehiker]

Thanks EK. I have that site bookmarked.

Eric B.

 

[jimbires]

NO 6. All stocks need pillars, even stocks with bedding blocks

N0. 5. Aluminum Pillar Bedding for a more accurate rifle.


these are the 2 I have booked marked . he has a lot of info on his sight , so just browse around a little . I used devcon 10110 . I've read about guys using JB weld with good results .

 

[Barrelnut]

If on a budget, threaded lamp pipe makes great pillars. You can get a piece at Home Depot etc. for just a couple bucks. I use it all the time on Savage actions since the rear pillar on a Savage needs to be cut away a little for the trigger. The threaded pipe glues well to the stock.

Just take your action screws and get a piece with the right diameter. Beats paying $50 for a set of pillars from a smith....

 

[Litehiker]

Thanks guys,

After looking at all the possible pillars and realizing that if I cut too much off I'm screwed I think I'll get Brownell's adjustable pillars.

I'll find the correct height for each one, use permanent Loc Tite, let it dry overnight them epoxy them in place.

Eric B.

 

[Litehiker]

Thanks guys,

After looking at all the possible pillars and realizing that if I cut too much off I'm screwed I think I'll get Brownell's adjustable pillars.

I'll find the correct height for each one, use permanent Loc Tite, let it dry overnight them epoxy them in place.

But Barrelnut's suggestion for using lamp pipe is also a good idea. The threads will hold the epoxy well.

Eric B.

 

[Edd]

When McMillan built rifles, they intentionally cut the pillars a little bit short so epoxy would cover the ends of them. They said that was the only way to get a perfect fit.

 

[Clark]

If you go back 25 years when there were no www gun forums, just usenet on the internet, and when asked how you get that 3.25" 20 shot group 800 yards with a 308? The standard answer about bedding and pillars would be: You either touch at two points around the action screws, or you touch everywhere.

Not much has changed. I am still not going to Camp Perry, but I am a touch at two points person.

For the round bottom receivers, I custom build pillars with a slightly smaller radius than the receiver.
When the pillars are prestressed [in compression for pillars, tension for re bar in concrete], they should easily open to the radius of the receiver so plenty of force is remains for the force multiplying effect of V blocks.

The pillar is not necessary threaded, but just concentric rings in the outside to grab epoxy. The inside of the pillar hole in the stock is most easily scored with a tap. So that is threaded, but just to grab expoxy.

 

[Edd]

I personally think the best pillar design would be one that floats up and down. I've searched the internet and found no one that does it that way.

 

[MNbogboy]

If on a budget, threaded lamp pipe makes great pillars. You can get a piece at Home Depot etc. for just a couple bucks. I use it all the time on Savage actions since the rear pillar on a Savage needs to be cut away a little for the trigger. The threaded pipe glues well to the stock.

Just take your action screws and get a piece with the right diameter. Beats paying $50 for a set of pillars from a smith....

+1 on the lamp posts, I have used these on many different wooden stocks including Boyds, Savages & Remington...

But the twist is that I first bore the action screw holes with
the appropriate size bit (depends on the wood) and then tap the holes with a modified 1/8" pipe tap (because standard taps are so short, the shank is ground down so that I can tap completely though the stock)...Then cut and fit the lamp nipples to fit..I make index marks on the nipples so that I can turn them exactly into position while they are epoxied in place..I always fit and let the pillars cure before bedding the rest of the action. Hint; use a small file to remove the weld flash inside the nipples to prevent interference with the action screws.

My method and seems to work well for me.

Good luck,
Randy

 

[Varmtr]

Same here make my own pillars using stainless steel bolts machined down to correct length the centre drilled. Once the stock is drilled I also run a tap through the holes. Using threaded pillars and threaded stock this creates a greater surface area for epoxy to grip. Been using Miles Gilbert Bedrock epoxy with good results. Once cured then I bed the rest of the action but with Devcon or when I can get it at work Belzona.