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New 243 ai build

jaybic

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2009
Messages
58
Location
rochester mn
Hello all,

I am pretty new here so I am hoping that some of you can point me in the right direction.

I am building a long range coyote whacker and need some advice. The rifle is as follows
Stiller Predator short action w/20 moa rail and dbm
Hart 10 twist 24 inch fluted tube 1.250 tapering to .750 (#5 contour I think)
HS Precision stock
Timney trigger
Vortex 4x16x50 ffp scope

Where I need help is here: I am having it chambered in .243ai and need to get dies and I am looking at the Redding comp or Match dies but I have no idea about bushings, what size bushings I might need...do I need these fancy dies at all given the particulars of my rifle...???? I don't want to spend 300.00 on fancy dies when the 100.00 set will work but I would if I knew it was worth it. I just don't want to use bench grade components and gunsmithing and then use dies that are not equivalent or vice versa.

I am open to any ideas and/or suggestions but it seems no one has these dies in stock so I need to make up my mind and get them ordered before I have a fancy new rifle and no dies....also, if anyone has any bullet/load ideas for this round, that helps also. I hunt mainly western SD/ND and when it gets windy out there(all the time it seems) my 22-250 and 55gr NBT just doesn't do it when the shots get long which is why I am stepping up to this rig.

anyway, thanks for your time and insight folks and have a great day,

Jamie
 
What bullets do you intend to shoot ? I'm perplexed why someone would want to build a 1:10 243 AI for coyotes ? Perhaps you intend to shoot the 87gr VLD or the 95gr classic hunter ? Neither have great BC's and you will definitely not be able to shoot the regular 95gr VLD or the 105, both which have excellent long range characteristics.

I have a 26" 1:8 Shilen with a 243 AI chamber and shoot/hunt with 95gr VLD's and once the brass is fireformed, I intend to start 105gr load development. The 95gr bullets are deadly on coyote.
 
Well,

This is my first real build and it appears I may have screwed it up already...

I am/was planning on trying the 87gr vmax, the 87 VLD and I was gonna try the 95 vld as I have read/been told that I should be ok twist-wise. On the Berger website, it specifies 9 twist whereas the Shilen website says under 100 gr VLDs are ok for a 10 twist.

The twist advice was given to me by fellas over at BRC, one of whom as I understand it, is a very highly regarded gunsmith on a national level and builds for the military so on that note, I am confused now as the information appears to be conflicting but I thank you nonetheless.

I don't wish to offend as I came here for advice but I am now second guessing....

Thanks for your insight,

Jamie
 
I guess it depends on how far you wanna shoot too really. If I were to build a 243/243 AI I'd go with a 1:7.5 twist or a 1:8 twist barrel to stabilize the 105vlds. At the speeds the 243 AI can push those heavier 105 it's truely a long range coyote whacker. I'm currently running a factory remington 243 barrel and it loves the 87 gr vmax. And it's fun to shoot but I'm in the midst of deciding what caliber to go with in the rebarrel process and if I decide to stick with the 243. Win/ Ackley I'll be going with a much faster twist to stabilize a heavier bullet for coyote/crow hunting an a long range practice rifle. Might try her out in comps as well but we will see
 
I'm shooting a 243 win now. When it's time for a new pipe it will be a 7.5twist AI chamber.
 
Most aftermarket barrels are setup for 1:8, the only bullets they can't shoot are the 115gr+ and that is a very limited application.

I had an original Savage 1:9.25 twist barrel (26" varmint contour) and there was no way I could get the 95gr VLD's to group worth a ****. I'm at 1000ft elevation and this was in summer and not even in winter, when the stability issues would be worse.

Now if you only shoot at 7000+ ft elevation, then your stability margin would be better. However, I still think that you would be much better to get a 1:8 since it would allow you to shoot everything you have in mind, probably down to 75gr if you do not load them too hot.

I would call that smith right away. A 1:10 barrel is something that is intended to shoot rockchucks at 200-300 yards with varmint style explosive bullets at 4000+ fps. Not what you have in mind.
 
I checked and its too late, the barrel ships today...

oh well, thanks anyway and you're right, its not what I have in mind. I am a coyote tournament hunter and I can kill the 300 yarders all day long. Its the tournament winning dogs at 600+ and even farther that I am after.

Jamie
 
Is it a barrel blank that is shipping ? Usually to complete a barrel the smith would have to have your receiver. If its just a blank, I would find a varmint shooting board and put it up for sale there. And order a 1:8 blank from bugholes.com and go from there.
 
its a 24" 10 twist Hart blank that is fluted and tapers from 1.250 to .750(a #5 I think). $440.00 shipped with fluting job(straight flutes) In speaking with Hart today the said that 90gr bullets is about as heavy as they suggest but that should get me out quite a ways....

I am also thinking about ordering another tube from Bartlein, Brux or Broughton because lead times are so long that by the time I get one of these, the one I already have will be shot up and I can screw on an 8T.

I have much practicing to do and if I can only shoot 80-87s or so out to 600 yards, that's what I guess I will do....

Thanks again,

Jamie
 
You can probably get a blank from stock at bugholes.com. They carry Krieger, Bartlein, Rock and others. Take a look, you may be surprised. You can use the 95gr Berger Classic hunter but the BC is substantially lower than a VLD. It was made specifically for 1:10 barrels.
 
I looked there before I ordered but its a blank and then I don't know who around here does fluting and contouring and that sort of thing.

It was tough enough to find a gunsmith(not your average smith type) but a "bench/long range grade gunsmith that has substantial experience in putting custom guns together.

Oh well, I guess I am wiser for the next time....

Jamie
 
Fluting is likely the lest critical of the operations performed (straight flutes). Chambering, machining the barrel tenon and crowning are all more critical. Those would get done by the same smith who built the last barrel and he could probably do the fluting too. Big thing is that you don't have to wait 6 months to a year or more for a custom blank from Bartlein or Krieger.
 
My 1:10 243 20" factory barrel shoots the 95 Nosler BTs really well. 1/2 MOA. I believe the BC is only .379 but hitting your target is mor important than how much the bullet drops. My gun will hold 2-1/2" groups at 500 which is good enough for a yote. I do have some 95 grn classic bergers loaded up to try. Don't remember the BC but it is higher than the noslers. I'd give the noslers a shot. Running mine over 35 grains of Varget at 2860 if I remember right.
 
I have 243AI with a 1-9 twist and shoot the A-max 105 very very well. I also have a friend with a stock factory 243 1-10 twist that shoots G-hogs beyond 600 yards with the 105's. Get a box and try them their cheap and accurate if your keeping the barrel.
I tried them in my factory older 1-10 Sako 243... 14" group at 100.... but bug holes with 95 Bal-Tips. So you never really know when your right on the edge of twist / bullet design.

I agree with probably selling and getting a 1-8 and be done with it. Your call. At least with the 1-10 you won't have to wait for anther barrel.
 
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