Need for reloading manual?

I have ~ 50 reloading manuals, but do not use them anymore.

I started reloading 12 years ago.
I now reload; 19 Badger, .222, .223, 22-250, 6mmBR, .243, 25/35, 257 Roberts AI, 260, 270, 7x57mm, 7mm Rem mag, 30-30, 308, 30-06, 300WM, 7.62x54R, 8x57mm, 338WM, 25acp, 32acp, 32sw, 32S&WLong, 32-20, 7.62x25mm, 303Sav, 7.62x39mm, 7.5Swiss, 303Brit, .380, 9x19mm, 9x23mm, 357 Sig, 38 sp, 357 mag, 38sw, 40sw, 10mm, 10.4mm, 401 power mag, 44mag, 45acp, 45Colt, and 45/70... and others.

Now I find a starting load with Quickload in guns stronger than the brass, like bolt action rifles.
Then I work up.
When I find the limit, I subtract a safety margin.

Now I find a load with Quickload in guns weaker than the brass, like 45 Colt revolvers.
I stick with that load.

I do use a set of SAAMI chamber and cartridge drawings with toleranced dimensions that are in Davis' book:
Amazon.com: Handloading (9780935998344): William C. Davis: Books
 
"get the same exact thing for free."


I can go to Nosler website and get loading information for the 165 Accubond in my 30-06 unfortunately they fail to list my both of my go to powders for 30-06 (IMR 4350 and IMR 4064) My Nosler manual lists both of these powders in addition to 4 others that aren't on their online information.


I could have got rolling with the online info, but the manual gave me the info to find the most accurate load for this particular rifle.
 
I buy every new manual as soon as they are available. It is much easier for me to compare loads with three or four books open side by side rather than having to go on line back and forth and waste a bunch of paper that I will throw away. I print out the manufacturers data and put it in a binder to use as reference also. Joe Bob can go fly a kite!
 
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