My torch and drill annealer

[P7M13]

I like the notion of a stable, fixed torch. I use bags of shot to keep mine 'steady.'
I'm also confused:

• The torch is fixed position with slight angle adjustment
• The drill is anchored with forward/rearward adjustment

How do you remove and insert cases without putting your hand in/near the flame? I look at that and smell burning knuckle hair.

 

[Muddyboots]

Only hurts for few seconds then the knuckles are annealed too and impervious to flame

 

[74honker]

I like the notion of a stable, fixed torch. I use bags of shot to keep mine 'steady.'
I'm also confused:

• The torch is fixed position with slight angle adjustment
• The drill is anchored with forward/rearward adjustment

How do you remove and insert cases without putting your hand in/near the flame? I look at that and smell burning knuckle hair.

I don't think the drill is "anchored". I would say cradled lol. Looks to me that he is putting case into drill, set drill down in cradle, then removes drill and switches cases. Justin please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[RWE]

Fantastic idea, thank you sir!

I will be building a box myself! Thinking I will base mine on 30-06 cases and build wedges and pads so drill can move in and torch up.

 

[Muddyboots]

I bet if you attached the drill to a large hinge, you could just flip it back and forth pretty easily! Heck, a heavy cable tie is prob all you need for low volume case needs.

Thx justinp61 for getting the juices moving!

 

[RWE]

Looks like you just slide it in and out, the "U" shaped blocking serves as a limiter.

 

[justinp61]

I like the notion of a stable, fixed torch. I use bags of shot to keep mine 'steady.'
I'm also confused:

• The torch is fixed position with slight angle adjustment
• The drill is anchored with forward/rearward adjustment

How do you remove and insert cases without putting your hand in/near the flame? I look at that and smell burning knuckle hair.

74honker is correct, the drill is sitting against a stop on the side and one in the front. The box is set up for a RH person so the torch is on the left side while it's in use. All I do is rotate my wrist away from me and the case is out of the heat, then drop it on the bench (1/2" steel plate). Load another case and sit the drill against the side stop at a angle away from the flame then rotate it to me and against the stops.

I tried to make it consistent by having a hard location for the drill and the torch, now time is the variable.

 

[Barrelnut]

WOW!!! Genius!!! Great idea. Thanks for posting this.

 

[justinp61]

Fantastic idea, thank you sir!

I will be building a box myself! Thinking I will base mine on 30-06 cases and build wedges and pads so drill can move in and torch up.

RWE, if you look at the second photo you'll notice that the stop at the front of the drill fits to the inside of the other stop. That is so all I have to do to go from a 22-250 to a 30-06 is to move the short stop back however far it needs to be then screw it down. A person could make a spacer I suppose but it would be something else to keep up with, again KISS, LOL.

My thinking was once the correct alignment of the case centerline to the flame was found that wouldn't change regardless what case you were working. What would change was the engagement of the case to flame longitudinally, hence the adjustable stop.

 

[justinp61]

BTW I retired from Bosch so thanks for using drill! Keep my pension funded!!

I'd recommend them to anyone. I have two drills and a driver and have used them hard, they've never let me down.

 

[ButterBean]

I'd recommend them to anyone. I have two drills and a driver and have used them hard, they've never let me down.

Nice Plug

 

[Muddyboots]

I have several. Once in a while I go to son's house to visit them

 

[mmgravy]

I have several. Once in a while I go to son's house to visit them

I have the same problem.......

 

[bpuff]

I am going to look into building one of those. Thank you very much fo the info