Muzzle brake for 300 Weatherby Mark V

[VenatusDominus]

I am having trouble deciding what the correct move is for a muzzle brake for my 300 Weatherby Magnum, Mark V, bought circa 1980. To start with, the outside diameter of the barrel at the tip is .610. I believe this means that I need to find something with a 1/2 by 28 thread. Otherwise I would have to shorten the barrel to a point where a 5/8x28 would work which was the recommendation from a local gunsmith.
.
Secondly, Weatherby only cells one type of break with portholes around the entire diameter, which makes it difficult for prone shooting if you don't like a mouthful of dirt. I have also heard of CSR brakes but don't know much about them. I have questions on whether a 1/2x28 is safe to use or not. Does anybody have experience with adding a break to a Weatherby?.

I have a 300 Weatherby Mark V synthetic stock with a slim 24" barrel I purchased new in 1991. In Dec 2020 I sent it to the factory to have the muzzle threaded for a brake (total cost with shipping was $241.92, that included the factory brake and a screw-on thread cover for use when the brake is off the gun). The slim barrel required 1/2x28 threads. I had to purchase the factory radial brake to not void the factory accuracy warranty. As soon as I received the rifle back from the factory, I swapped the factory brake with the PA Hypertap below. The Weatherby break is rated at 54% recoil reduction and the PA Hypertap is rated at 84% recoil reduction.

​ 1 x Precision Armament HYPERTAP Muzzle Brake Slim 7.62mm/.308Cal, 1/2-28, Black, 7.62mm/.308, A04614​

I spent 6 months working up hand loads for the gun and could never get it to group less than 1.5" at 100 yards with the Hypertap. The felt recoil reduction was in the range they claimed at 84%. I put the factory brake back on and the felt recoil was greater, but about what Weatherby claimed at 54%. Yeah, the radial brake is not ideal when shooting prone, but with the factory brake the gun regularly shoots 0.3" groups at 100 yards, providing I do my part. The Hypertap brake is definitely better at mitigating recoil, but the loss in accuracy was not an acceptable trade-off for me. With the Weatherby brake, the gun is now enjoyable to shoot and still very accurate. Plus the factory brake matches my blued barrel perfectly in diameter and finish, and unless you look very closely, you would think the barrel is ported and not that there is a screw-on brake attached. I think the size/weight of the Hypertap was just too much mass at the end of a very slim barrel, causing it to amplify barrel harmonics and whip about, adversely affecting accuracy.

 

[WYO300RUM]

I am having trouble deciding what the correct move is for a muzzle brake for my 300 Weatherby Magnum, Mark V, bought circa 1980. To start with, the outside diameter of the barrel at the tip is .610. I believe this means that I need to find something with a 1/2 by 28 thread. Otherwise I would have to shorten the barrel to a point where a 5/8x28 would work which was the recommendation from a local gunsmith.
.
Secondly, Weatherby only cells one type of break with portholes around the entire diameter, which makes it difficult for prone shooting if you don't like a mouthful of dirt. I have also heard of CSR brakes but don't know much about them. I have questions on whether a 1/2x28 is safe to use or not. Does anybody have experience with adding a break to a Weatherby?.

I have APA micro basterd on 3 sporter diameter barrels. They are 1/2x28 self timing.They aren't most recoil reduction muzzle breaks out there but they are just a little bigger than barrel diameter. I have on a 7mmRM, 300 WM, 257 Weatherby and even on a 300 RUM w/a varmint contour barrel . 9/16x24 micro .It's same diameter of barrel end.
Just a thought.

 

[WYO300RUM]

Hey, I also had a Gen 1 APA in 1/2 by 24 put on my original 300 Wby barrel. The recoil reduction was great. Barrel was toast about four years ago and it was replaced with a carbon 6 in 300 Wby. New brake is a gen 3 five port APA. Recoil reduction is awesome
Take Care

I had my original gen. 1 APA micro basterd on 300 RUM blew a peice out of the web between ports. They sent me a new gen. 2. He said the had problems with being to thin there. My other 3 at Gen 2 also. No problems. Their customer service is great . also.

 

[woodsman1991]

I'll also recommend getting one of the factory brakes, they did a decent job designing them.

 

[coueskiller43]

I agree with other posts about the factory brakes. They greatly reduce recoil but are obscenely loud (seem to be louder than a side port brake). If you want a gunsmith to install it send it to Karl at Kampfeld customs. His brakes are very similar to a factory weatherby brake. He does excellent work. It's difficult to see the seam between the barrel and brake when he's done with it.

 

[Idaho Lefty]

Patriot Valley Arms ( PVA ) did my "Sporter" barreled, Tikka, T-3 with, 9/16" X 24 tpi and Recrowned the Muzzle for $135.00 and I put their, Back Country 3 Port, Jet Blast Brake ( $125.00 ) on it to AVOID,.. the Concussion / BLAST to, the Shooter ! We now have 4 of them, in My Family !
Amazing,.. Recoil reduction and LOW amount of Muzzle "Jump", on my son's 7 PRC shooting 180 gr., ELD-M's at almost,.. 3,000 FPS !
My 13 y/o grandson is shooting My old, .270 WSM with, 140 gr Bergers, clocking almost, 3,200 FPS and can easily shoot, a Box of Ammo at Steel !
My son and I DID, a LOT of Research, before choosing, PVA Brakes. Yes, you might LOSE, 5 % of the total Recoil, reduction "Capabilities", BUT it's, Worth It, NOT to Hear, ALL, the "Concussion" at,.. the Shooter !!
The "Blast" is, "Re-Directed" thoughtfully at, a much BETTER,.. Angle !

 

[asd9055]

Here are three radial brakes. First two are custom made/installed by my local gunsmith. Last is WBY Factory. They all shoot great. I can handle the recoil, but why, if I have a choice?

 

[Window]

I am having trouble deciding what the correct move is for a muzzle brake for my 300 Weatherby Magnum, Mark V, bought circa 1980. To start with, the outside diameter of the barrel at the tip is .610. I believe this means that I need to find something with a 1/2 by 28 thread. Otherwise I would have to shorten the barrel to a point where a 5/8x28 would work which was the recommendation from a local gunsmith.
.
Secondly, Weatherby only cells one type of break with portholes around the entire diameter, which makes it difficult for prone shooting if you don't like a mouthful of dirt. I have also heard of CSR brakes but don't know much about them. I have questions on whether a 1/2x28 is safe to use or not. Does anybody have experience with adding a break to a Weatherby?.

Funny this post just pooped up. I shot with an old friend this morning who I was helping load for a new 30-378 Accumark however he brought his old 300wby vanguard to shoot as well. Our furthest target was at 670 and he was centering an eight inch plate with ease with his new rifle and has never pulled the trigger on anything past 200. He pulls out the old 300 wby vanguard and attempts to shoot the 250yd target with dismal results, so I ask him to let me shoot it and he spot the shots. Needless to say, I shot it once and handed it back to him stating there's no one who could shoot this accurately long range without it having a break on it. I have brakes on all my rifles and enjoy spotting my own shots and don't mind shooting with the best hearing protection I can afford. I also love shooting with cans, but I'm old school and don't have a tube under 26"s and they're not practical to use while hunting.

 

[2HuntinAK]

Funny this post just pooped up. I shot with an old friend this morning who I was helping load for a new 30-378 Accumark however he brought his old 300wby vanguard to shoot as well. Our furthest target was at 670 and he was centering an eight inch plate with ease with his new rifle and has never pulled the trigger on anything past 200. He pulls out the old 300 wby vanguard and attempts to shoot the 250yd target with dismal results, so I ask him to let me shoot it and he spot the shots. Needless to say, I shot it once and handed it back to him stating there's no one who could shoot this accurately long range without it having a break on it. I have brakes on all my rifles and enjoy spotting my own shots and don't mind shooting with the best hearing protection I can afford. I also love shooting with cans, but I'm old school and don't have a tube under 26"s and they're not practical to use while hunting.

Hello Sir, I was perusing the forum and noticed you had mentioned that you have some experience with .30-378 Weatherby loads. I would like to PM you to discuss but I don't have enough posts. If possible can you text or email? I can be reached at 907-575-5900. Thank-you for your time!

 

[A/1-61]

Funny this post just pooped up. I shot with an old friend this morning who I was helping load for a new 30-378 Accumark however he brought his old 300wby vanguard to shoot as well. Our furthest target was at 670 and he was centering an eight inch plate with ease with his new rifle and has never pulled the trigger on anything past 200. He pulls out the old 300 wby vanguard and attempts to shoot the 250yd target with dismal results, so I ask him to let me shoot it and he spot the shots. Needless to say, I shot it once and handed it back to him stating there's no one who could shoot this accurately long range without it having a break on it. I have brakes on all my rifles and enjoy spotting my own shots and don't mind shooting with the best hearing protection I can afford. I also love shooting with cans, but I'm old school and don't have a tube under 26"s and they're not practical to use while hunting.

Well let me give you an update. I purchased a radial muzzle brake directly from Weatherby, half by 28 thread and had a local gunsmith threaded the barrel. I reblued the barrel with a three steps process and it looks like the muzzle break was always part of the rifle . I have only put 12 shots through it and I'm getting 9/16 MOA groups. Prior to putting the brake on, I was lucky to get two or 3 in MOA groups. I believe I have eliminated 75% of the recoil. Now the next step is to get my Swarovski 3.5x18x44P (ballistic turret) tuned for my Utah hunt. My plan is a 340 yard zero. 53 clicks of adjustment should get me out to 910 yd. I have a 650 range on my Maine property and I'm heading up there next week to test this setup. I love when a plan comes together.

Funny this post just pooped up. I shot with an old friend this morning who I was helping load for a new 30-378 Accumark however he brought his old 300wby vanguard to shoot as well. Our furthest target was at 670 and he was centering an eight inch plate with ease with his new rifle and has never pulled the trigger on anything past 200. He pulls out the old 300 wby vanguard and attempts to shoot the 250yd target with dismal results, so I ask him to let me shoot it and he spot the shots. Needless to say, I shot it once and handed it back to him stating there's no one who could shoot this accurately long range without it having a break on it. I have brakes on all my rifles and enjoy spotting my own shots and don't mind shooting with the best hearing protection I can afford. I also love shooting with cans, but I'm old school and don't have a tube under 26"s and they're not practical to use while hunting.