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Model 700 stock help!!!!

codyarnold

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2013
Messages
56
Location
British Columbia
Hey guys
I have a model 700 sps varmint in a 22-250, was loo ongoing a either glass bedding the stock, my thing is it even worth the time and hassle. I don't really think these are very good stocks anyways. So should I just put and aftermarket stock on it. If so what do you guys recommend for a stock cause I know so many people make different stocks thanks
 
I didn't think too highly of my Tikka T3 stock either- I bought a Bell and Carlson Medalist stock and love it. Nice color options and it's solid. Great support and not too spendy. That's my recommendation.
 
If you're talking about the rubber coated piece of plastic, You cannot do enough to make it worth keeping. B&C, McMillan, Choate........ ALL will be better! I have the B&C A3. it work great for me.
 
It depends.....
First off, why is this debate coming into the light? Are you having accuracy issues with the rifle? Are we talking you can't get below 1/2 MOA or you can't get below 2 MOA?
If so, are you using factory ammo of handloading? If handloading, How many different loads have you tried?

Bedding is often beneficial if a rifle is shooting very poorly. More so to the rifle's benefit is free floating the barrel in the stock.

There are a lot of variables that need to be known here before a solid conclusion can be made. You'd be surprised just how well a cheap factory synthetic stock can make a rifle shoot with the right attention to detail.
 
It depends.....
First off, why is this debate coming into the light? Are you having accuracy issues with the rifle? Are we talking you can't get below 1/2 MOA or you can't get below 2 MOA?
If so, are you using factory ammo of handloading? If handloading, How many different loads have you tried?

Bedding is often beneficial if a rifle is shooting very poorly. More so to the rifle's benefit is free floating the barrel in the stock.

There are a lot of variables that need to be known here before a solid conclusion can be made. You'd be surprised just how well a cheap factory synthetic stock can make a rifle shoot with the right attention to detail.

Sometimes people want to upgrade a rifle just for the heck of it :) My Tikka shot fairly well with the factory stock, but I hated the feel of it. After having it for about a year, I finally broke down and bought the B&C Medalist. Do I believe it's the only reason why my rifle shoots great? No, but I'm sure it helps.
 
I should add that I agree, there are plenty of variables to consider before determining that the stock is the accuracy issue. If I recall, the sps varmint 22-250 is a 1:14 twist- that could be a bit picky with heavier ammo.
 
I should add that I agree, there are plenty of variables to consider before determining that the stock is the accuracy issue. If I recall, the sps varmint 22-250 is a 1:14 twist- that could be a bit picky with heavier ammo.

Yea I tired the hornady 53gr amax or vmax whichever they are and failed miserably. I'm currently trying 52gr Amaxes with the H380 powder and I'm working on some different loads current running 40grs of it and getting about 1 inch groups going to try going hotter or less an see how it performs
 
The thing is that low recoil rifles don't really need perfect bedding to shoot well. I also believe more load testing with a wider array of components and powders is needed before coming to conclusions about the rifle's accuracy capabilities.

As for the elimination of stock possibilities...Below is a good method to tell if your stock is fitting well;

Completely loosen the action screws in the front and back, then grab the rifle by the barrel with one hand and hold the stock with the other. Try to push and pull the barreled action in/out with a motion that is parallel to the barrel channel while making sure the action stays seated down in the stock all the way. If there is any play, I would definitely recommend bedding the stock.

If it is tight with the barrel free floating in the channel, then you probably have other issues that are more significant to the accuracy problems. If the barrel is not free floating, it needs to be.

I think this is all worth the effort of checking out because I have had rifles with cheap factory synthetic stocks shoot every bit as good as my custom rifles with full carbon/fiberglass aluminum skeleton stocks.
 
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The thing is that low recoil rifles don't really need perfect bedding to shoot well. I also believe more load testing with a wider array of components and powders is needed before coming to conclusions about the rifle's accuracy capabilities.

As for the elimination of stock possibilities...Below is a good method to tell if your stock is fitting well;

Completely loosen the action screws in the front and back, then grab the rifle by the barrel with one hand and hold the stock with the other. Try to push and pull the barreled action in/out with a motion that is parallel to the barrel channel while making sure the action stays seated down in the stock all the way. If there is any play, I would definitely recommend bedding the stock.

If it is tight with the barrel free floating in the channel, then you probably have other issues that are more significant to the accuracy problems. If the barrel is not free floating, it needs to be.

I think this is all worth the effort of checking out because I have had rifles with cheap factory synthetic stocks shoot every bit as good as my custom rifles with full carbon/fiberglass aluminum skeleton stocks.

The stock defiantly moves and it's not a free floating barrel
 
I recently helped a friend out with this same issue. He has the stainless fluted SpS varmint 223 and it wouldn't shoot for anything. He was shooting off a bipod and sand bags at times. The cheap plastic stock was contacting the barrel and making terrible groups. I epoxied two 3/8"x12" threaded rods in the fore end and bedded the action so it would sit a little higher and I wouldn't have to whittle the plastic to free float the barrel. He took it out the next day and put five rounds through the same hole when before it was about 2.5" groups. Try supporting the rifle with a sand bag right below the action and see if it shoots better; that will help you see if the flimsy fore end is your issue.
 
I'd also suggest trying a flat based bullet in 50-52 gr range. The 53 vmax is about as long as the 60 gr vmax due to it's boat tail design. Just an idea though.
 
Then I would definitely bed the action and the first 1/2"-1" of the barrel with some Devon Steel Puddy and ream out the barrel channel to make it so nothing contacts the barrel. Then you'll know that the remaining accuracy factors are not the stock.

Also make sure you torque your action screws correctly after the bedding is complete. I usually like to torque the front screw on a 700 to about 50 lbs and the rear screw about 25-30 lbs. With a good full action bedding job, y ou shouldn't need to torque any tighter. Bed with "headless" action screws to ensure the receiver is completely stress free during the process. You can get them at Brownell.

Good luck.
 
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