SOLD/EXPIRED MAJOR QUESTION MOA of RAIL

[etisll40]

I had a custom rail put on my rifle and the Smith did -0- moa. I thought it mattered and I now have no MOA in my scope to get it to zero. This scope only has 25 MOA.

How does one determine MOA needed on a rail to max out the MOA of the scope? It seems to me that the parallel line from the receiver to the barrels parallel line could be like 1" so how does one really calculate the MOA needed on the rail to max out the scope?

Also, what do I do now?

I'm thinking about removing the rail and sending to someone to duplicate it but add 20-40 MOA? Good idea? Any other suggestions?

Thanks

 

[NomadPilot]

Just how far do you want to shoot? What zero do you want to use? Run your numbers in a ballistic calculator and see where your scope runs out of elevation adjustment. What scope is that? 25 MOA (total of 50?) isn't much.

If you want to shoot past that, you need an angled rail. How much angle depends on how far you want to shoot. If you need 45 MOA to dial to your max range, then you need a 20 MOA rail. If you only need 35, then you only need a 10 MOA rail.

Basically you need a lot more information before anyone can properly advise you.

 

[etisll40]

It does have only 50 moa and it's a 308. I'd like to max it out.leaving close to -0- at say 50 yards. With the current rail, today I dialed all of the elevation and was still 3 inches low at 25 yards. I couldn't figure it out as it is a semi automatic browning and I don't know how to bore sight them? I wasted a box of ammunition.

I may have to send it to a gunsmith or shim the rail? maybe have a bew one made. this one is custom! Some custom huh!!!

Help, or recommend me a gunsmith to correct this.

Thanks...

 

[Timeout]

Several points, number one being that it sounds to me like this is a hunting rifle, and you are not looking to shoot super long range. That being the case, if everything was machined properly, rifle receiver and scope rail, 0 MOA should be fine. One of the best ways for you to center the scope now would be with Burris Signature Zee rings. They have plastic inserts and kits available to exchange inserts that will raise the front of the scope. Go to Burris website and they have a video that is very good. I am confident that by watching the video, you will have a much better understanding of the scope mounting process. There is much more to mounting a scope properly than simply inserting and tightening screws. A side benefit to the Signature Zee rings is that they will not scratch the surface of your scope. There are some very inexpensive 20 MOA rails out there. One of those may also solve your problem. check out Ryan Kleckner videos. Here is the link to understanding MOA. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VA2PZBD5Tjg]Understanding Minute of Angle (MOA) - Rifle Shooting Technique - NSSF Shooting Sportscast - YouTube[/ame] Ryan has a video on scope mounting, as well as many other informative videos. If you want to make a road trip to WI., I'll show you my regimen for mounting your scope

 

[texan79]

Seems logical that if your at the top of your scopes travel, and still a little low, a 20 MOA rail is going to put you at about center. Also, be mindful that line of sight, is not the line of flight. The bullet could be on the upward slope of its ballistic curve at 25 yds. Where does it shoot at 100? And why a 50 yd zero? If you plan to dial this rifle for distance, a 200 yd zero doesn't effect your point blank range to the extent you need to worry about at 50 yds. Just zero it for 100 and hold dead on inside of that range, and dial the longer distance if you desire. Am I confused here?

 

[etisll40]

The rifle is new, the rail is new and the scope is new. I'm going to put a scope on that I am already using, a leupold vx-3, check the rifle and rail out and then slap the new scope on and go from there I guess. I don't know any other way. Any of the 3 could be off, gonna check the rifle first. I'll report on my findings, but i'd still like to learn what the minimum moa needed to zero at say 100 is? How do I figure that out before I get a scope or rail for a set up? It sure would help in buying components and scopes and rings etc, to know how to calculate that in the firstplace.

 

[rocknwell]

I'm not a long time expert, but it seems to me that you think you need lots of MOA for short distance. You need only a cheap scope to get on paper at 100 yards. Here is what I would do: take your scope and dial the elevation all the way up. Next, find how many turns it takes to get all the way down. If it's something like 4 turns from all the way up to all the way down, then you know that your scope's "zero" is at 2 turns from either all the way up or down. Next, buy a bore sighter thingy...I recommend one of those .308 laser cartridges that you put right into your bore. the laser will shoot straight out and you can point it to the center of a target at 100 yards. Once that is in place, mount your scope, and start shooting from there. You can now make simple, small adjustments to your scope to hit dead on at 100 yards. And as stated above, if you're shooting closer than 100 yards for hunting, even if you're sighted in at 200 yards, you don't need to dial for anything shorter than that.