Magneto speed sporter
- Thread starter Jsnake
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Not to Disagree with JAM07Sport, but I have been running a V3 for years. I shot it once and bought a new bayonet. I lost it in a home fire, and they replaced the entire unit at no cost. Had a controller go out and they replaced it no charge. In my experience, their customer service is first rate.
To your question:
A chrono is not necessary, but will pay for itself many times over in component cost and time if used consistently, with good data collection.
If you choose to use a "shoot through" type, get one that has its own lighting, as they provide much more accurate and consistent data.
Personally, if I am not shooting a match, I have the V3 mounted (off barrel). If you get the Lab Radar, get a remote trigger (I almost sold mine due to lack of data collection). The trigger reads 95%+ of my shots.
To your question:
A chrono is not necessary, but will pay for itself many times over in component cost and time if used consistently, with good data collection.
If you choose to use a "shoot through" type, get one that has its own lighting, as they provide much more accurate and consistent data.
Personally, if I am not shooting a match, I have the V3 mounted (off barrel). If you get the Lab Radar, get a remote trigger (I almost sold mine due to lack of data collection). The trigger reads 95%+ of my shots.
I bought a sporter model, because I usually am not a bells and whistles type of shooter. It works fine as long as you set it up correctly. They make a significant difference when doing load development. I currently do not shoot with a can. If I ever go this route, I will probably upgrade or order an after market way of attaching the bayonet to the stock.
JAM07Sport
Member
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2013
- Messages
- 18
So I should clarify when the sporter worked, it worked fine never missed a shot. At the end I was getting weird spreads. My 6 dasher is a consistent 20fps or less standard deviations. It was telling me 200fps spreads. So one day we compared 3 Chronos at the range we strapped the Sporter to 3 different rifles shot them over a Oehler 35 and had a lab radar set up also. The Oehler and lab all read 20fps or less spreads. The sporter was all over the place. So when I say stopped working it was not reliable. Not sure what happened. The way I looked at it was a tool to get starting point for building dope cards. What I have learned is none of the chronographs will get you a first round hit off data past 500yds. Well depending on your target size. I am talking sub moa at given distance. Since I now have local access to a place to shoot up to 1000yds I am satisfied with a device that has the ability to send my data to my phone and lets me create files for each rifle that costs under $90. The data then becomes a reference point for me to field verify. I should mention it is not uncommon for multiple Chronographs to read up to 50fps difference when reading the same projectile on the same day in the same conditions.
As for POI shift I had as much as 4 MOA with the sporter. On my 280 I could hold zero and be on target at 300yds. Could be a good thing depending on how you look at it. I also noticed the Sporter tightened up groups on some rifles as it acted like a tuner. So verify your loads if you develop with the bayonet on.
As for POI shift I had as much as 4 MOA with the sporter. On my 280 I could hold zero and be on target at 300yds. Could be a good thing depending on how you look at it. I also noticed the Sporter tightened up groups on some rifles as it acted like a tuner. So verify your loads if you develop with the bayonet on.
Additional comments:
As far as velocity variance from different Chrono equipment, I ran my V3 and Lab side by side for 8 months. The average velocity variance over the period was 4fps (Lab read faster). On the other hand, the "shoot-through" chrono will have a much larger variance, depending on how well it is set up. I strongly recommend one with its own light source. They will be more consistent by far.
As far as velocity variance from different Chrono equipment, I ran my V3 and Lab side by side for 8 months. The average velocity variance over the period was 4fps (Lab read faster). On the other hand, the "shoot-through" chrono will have a much larger variance, depending on how well it is set up. I strongly recommend one with its own light source. They will be more consistent by far.
Or get the mount which is made by Weiser precision
JKPhoto
Active Member
Very interesting device ... thanks for the heads up!
I hope you have better luck with your Caldwell then I have had. I feel that it's not very accurate. Just my humble opinion
If there is a mark or groove on the flat surface of the bayonet, you shot it..
I have shot two, both because I got in a hurry and didn't follow the proper procedures.
For what it is worth, I use a wooden dowel (proper size for caliber) that is sharpened on one end (pencil sharpener works fine). It will show you the proximity of the actual bore to the bayonet and is accurate when used properly. Especially good for making sure the bayonet is parallel to the bullet path.
However, YOU MUST REMOVE IT PRIOR TO SHOOTING (that is how I ruined my 2nd bayonet). Also damaged a machined steel muzzle brake in the process..
There, now y'all know all the dumb stuff I have done in my entire life (HA).
P.S. I have found customer service to be outstanding over the 6 years I have owned their products. But something may have changed since last contact..
I have shot two, both because I got in a hurry and didn't follow the proper procedures.
For what it is worth, I use a wooden dowel (proper size for caliber) that is sharpened on one end (pencil sharpener works fine). It will show you the proximity of the actual bore to the bayonet and is accurate when used properly. Especially good for making sure the bayonet is parallel to the bullet path.
However, YOU MUST REMOVE IT PRIOR TO SHOOTING (that is how I ruined my 2nd bayonet). Also damaged a machined steel muzzle brake in the process..
There, now y'all know all the dumb stuff I have done in my entire life (HA).
P.S. I have found customer service to be outstanding over the 6 years I have owned their products. But something may have changed since last contact..
LRP243Juicebox
Member
I have used the V3 and I've used the sporter. I eventually decided on the sporter. I am so glad I did because for my match rifle (26" barrel) I use a longer barrel but also used factory ammo. Had I just gone with factory box speeds, I would have been off by .2-.3 mils at 600 yards. That can add up to a lot when youre going for vitals. It was cheap way to guarantee that I could always know what my gun was going to do. the display isn't that great but it not awful.
Hugnot
Well-Known Member
I have the sporter version. I wrap a 1" wide strip of duct tape around my barrel to provide more friction to the strap/barrel contact point. Generally, I am pleased with the device - really an innovative process to measure velocity compared to optical methods. I find the data/numerical logic somewhat convoluted and don't use it, instead I just use the velocity values that are plugged into my Open Office spread sheet to perform stats & make a record of each shooting event. I rely on the device more than I thought I would. It provides streams of numbers for spread sheets. I destroyed the clamp portion of a bayonet while using the device on a smooth (outside) barreled .300 WM that I neglected to wrap with duct tape - the portion of the bayonet below the strap got blown off - Nielsen-Kellerman family of brands - cheerfully sent me another bayonet for $85, shipping included. I now carefully inspect & reposition, if required, the bayonet after each shot.
