Latest Projects

Discussion in 'Equipment Discussions' started by gonehuntingagain, Apr 4, 2004.

  1. gonehuntingagain

    gonehuntingagain Well-Known Member

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    4ked Horn and I have been slaving away in the garage the last few weekends on out latest projects. We are 90% done, just need to do a little work to prep for paint.

    [​IMG]

    The swingers are patterned after some that I had fun shooting at during the MGM Ironman 3-gun competition last June. We want to try to get these to spin at 300 yards, so we will have to whip that bolt fast (or shoot the AR-15) - maybe we will try it further out as we get better.

    [​IMG]

    The shooting table is fully adjustable for different size people, and is built strong enough to hold my fat a**. We still have to cut a u-shape in the wood part of the table to allow for elbow room on the table.

    This is the first time I have posted pictures before, so if they don't come through I will be needing instructions on how to do it right.


    I can't wait to go out and test these! [​IMG]

    Alan

    [ 04-04-2004: Message edited by: gonehuntingagain ]
     
  2. Matthew Gregory

    Matthew Gregory Active Member

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    Pretty cool stuff, man!

    How heavy is that table? I see that it disassembles... how quickly does it come apart or go together?
     
  3. 4ked Horn

    4ked Horn Writers Guild

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    I will try to get close ups of the table and a weight later today or tomorrow.
     
  4. gonehuntingagain

    gonehuntingagain Well-Known Member

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    I would guess that the entire table assembly weighs in between 50 - 75 lbs.
    As for the assembly time, I'm guessing 5 min to put together, and maybe another 5 min to get it oriented - leveled, facing the right direction, seat adjusted, etc. Its hard to say for sure since we haven't had the pleasure of field testing it yet.
     
  5. 4ked Horn

    4ked Horn Writers Guild

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    Pictures are on their way. I promise. Patience patience.
     
  6. gonehuntingagain

    gonehuntingagain Well-Known Member

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    Here is the base of the table. The welds are not the prettiest, but they are solid. This was my first time using a 110v wire feed/gas welder. I had so much fun using it I want to get one - although it would have to be a 220v welder for me to be happy

    [​IMG]

    The seat post connects such that it can be adjusted in 1" increments so everyone can get it set where they like it. These welds are uglier since I was trying to use a 110v stick welder that tripped the breaker every inch or two of weld, and was a real PITA to strike an arc with. It holds my big butt, so I guess it's ok.

    [​IMG]

    The tabletop mounts to the main tube easily.

    [​IMG]

    Once 4ked Horn and I get it all painted, it will be time for some rockchucks!
     
  7. 4ked Horn

    4ked Horn Writers Guild

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    Here is a picture of the legs with the adjustable landing pads.

    [​IMG]

    Here is my "#1 long range hunter in training" sitting in the hot seat adjusted all the way down.

    [​IMG]

    Here he is with the seat adjusted all the way up. You can see that we will probably never need to sit level with the table.

    [​IMG]

    I weighed the entire table and it came in at 90 pounds.

    [ 04-09-2004: Message edited by: 4ked Horn ]
     
  8. baldeagle713

    baldeagle713 Well-Known Member

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    gonehuntingagain:
    Nice work.
     
  9. MachV

    MachV Well-Known Member

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    Its a lot different useing my 110 welder at home than the big 440 units we have at work.Have found if you use a little less wire and run a little uphill it will weld .25".If I weld anything thicker I just preheat with the tourch.220 would definatly be nice but $$er and I'd have to run a bigger 220 line to the garage(cuts into the shooting budget)
    Bench looks promising.Is it stable enough?Would a spike under the Quadpod help stableize the top platform?
     
  10. gonehuntingagain

    gonehuntingagain Well-Known Member

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    The bench is stable, at least in the garage. I do not know if a spike coming out of the base would help - where I usually go shooting there are a ton of rocks in the soil, so it may not be a good idea.
    The only place that there is any play is where the main tube goes into the base (we have a shim to take care of that) and where the seat tube slides on the main tube. The top doesn't have much play at all.

    As for the 220v outlet in the garage - I'm in the same boat - $$$ to run one. I'm trying to convince my little brother to visit me - he is an electrician.
     
  11. pjtruesd

    pjtruesd Member

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    Running the 220 is a piece of cake. I stressed over it for a long time, then found out how easy it was. First thing you need is enough room for the breaker, which takes two spaces. Then just run your wire from the breaker to just below the fuze box. You will only have to poke a small hole in the sheetrock. Mount a surface box on the wall. Wire in the outlet and you are pretty much done. It shouldn't cost much at all. I also made a 220 extension cord using an external box with socket on one end and a plug on the other. I bought a 25' length of HD flexible cable. I use this for my table saw and band saw. I also bought a 220 wire feed last summer but haven't used it yet. I would estimate the cost for the upgrade to 220V at less than $50.00. If you go to an electrical supply and tell them what you want to do they can square you away.

    I don't like messing with the electrical stuff but it ended up not being a big deal.

    BTW, nice project.

    Jim
     
  12. gonehuntingagain

    gonehuntingagain Well-Known Member

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    Kind of off topic, but it's all good!

    If it were only that easy.....
    I have an older home, so the service box is on the back of the house - garage is in the front. I would have to run wire either through the crawl space to the garage, or through the attic.

    If I had a breaker box in the garage, I'd already have a 220v outlet.
    It is one of those type of projects that I will get to eventually.
    Oh yeah, there is also that "I don't know squat about wiring" issue that I have! [​IMG]

    220v welder: $675
    Rewiring the house to use it: Priceless
     
  13. 4ked Horn

    4ked Horn Writers Guild

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    Hey big Al

    Bill had a good idea (again). We should set up the table and see where the tubing naturally gaps. Then drill and tap the larger (outer) tubing and use machine thread eyebolts instead of set screws to tighten the slop. 1 on the verticle tube in the base and 2 in the verticle tube under the table and we wouldnt even need to weld on nuts since they are in non load bearing positions and only need to be thumb tightened.

    Let me know. I could do it in about 10 minutes. [​IMG]

    [ 04-10-2004: Message edited by: 4ked Horn ]
     
  14. gonehuntingagain

    gonehuntingagain Well-Known Member

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    Instead of eye bolts, I have seen another kind that have a wingnut - like head. I think they may be stronger - after all, we broke some eye bolts screwing them into a bowling ball....
    I think the seat tube is ok - we have enough adjustment to compensate for the slop - its not like the seat tube needs to be level. Having it slightly angled down might make it easier to get on the seat. The main tube definately needs something - we could continue to use that shim, which I think I would eventually lose, or put in the wingnuts - which would stay in the tube unless they rattled out from the mighty power of the Cummins - they are easier to replace if they do. I'll go to Lowe's today and pick up a couple and bring them over later in the afternoon.