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K&M Neck Turning Body Gets Hot

jb1023

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2015
Messages
332
I have the K&M neck turning tool with the steel pilot and steel blade. I have found that after 3-5 cases the holder gets very hot and uncomfortable to hold. Would this be remedied if I upgraded to the carbide pilot and blade or do I just need to do a few at a time? I don't need to do this often so I don't want to spend the money unless it will actually help. I'v done ~50 cases so far and the blade still cuts nicely so the heat is the only issue at this point.
 
It will also start to bind and cut unevenly when it gets hot so make sure it is lubed well. If cutting a large amount do it in 2 passes. Don't cut at too high rpm or it will get hot faster. I use Imperial wax or Magic Tap cutting oil, any lube will work. To cool it off I squirt rubbing alcohol on the pilot and cutter with a big syringe over a bowl and reuse it, just suck it up from the bowl after it runs off. You can use water when using Imperial wax as it doesn't thin the wax. make sure the cutter & pilot are water free when done or they will rust.
 
As Wedgy said, good lube helps, along with the heat shrink holder from K&M. I lay turner on ice pack while I measure each case and steel wool each neck, when I'm doing a lot of cases. The holder really reduces the strain of holding just the bare cutter, plus absorbs the heat. I do use the carbide mandrel, now that they offer it without the donut cutter teeth.
 
I keep a bottle of regular old 3-in-1 oil on the bench when I'm neck turning and put a drop on each case neck before I start turning. I've never had a problem with heat. Any kind of oil will do, motor oil, etc. I tumble them afterwards to get everything clean.
 
So I use my Ryobi bench top drill press. It only has 1 speed and I believe it is 750RPM, so not real fast as drills go. For my lube I was using RCBS case lube but will try Imperial instead. I also ordered a K&M expander mandrel, maybe the necks are too tight on the pilot after being necked down.
 
The expander is a given. If interested, you can find on Amazon a Hitachi drill that has a wheel on the trigger to control the rpm's. They work great. Even better if you run the drill with a foot switch.
 
Ditch the drill press and use a lee case trimmer holder in a hand drill. Much better speed control. I use the RCBS lube and lots of it. Just have to go slow. I only use the drill press for trimming to length.
 
I also ordered a K&M expander mandrel, maybe the necks are too tight on the pilot after being necked down.

You have to use the expander to get good results, it's not designed to turn necks that haven't been brought to the correct inside diameter. I'm surprised you were able to make it work at all without expanding the necks.

That is the root of your problem, don't do any more until you get the mandrel. I think everyone here just assumed you had one, it's an integral part of the system.
 
I haven't used the K&N but have the RCBS and wish I had the K&N. I never expanded the necks and had good results. However, moving to my lathe, I have even better results.
 
The purpose of sizing the necks and then expanding them with the mandrel is to make the inside of the neck uniform so when you turn the outside of the neck you're left with a neck that's an even thickness all the way through. If you don't use the mandrel you're not starting with the inside of the neck uniform so your end neck won't be a consistent thickness. It's useless to neck turn without properly expanding the neck first.
 
Maybe that is why I get better results on my lathe using a mandrel to hold the case. :)
 
Had no idea about the mandrel. This is the first time I have neck turned and the directions that I was given nor the youtube vids I watched on the subject mentioned this step. Hopefully the mandrel comes soon, Grafs has not provided a tracking number so that is a bummer, as my batch of brass is prepped to the point of neck turning.
 
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