Is there a screw under this?

[Hugger-4641]

Trying to dissassemble this Rem model six .270 pump and the action tube will not break free.
I have bent two long handle allen wrenches and a tool I made from a broken decapping pin. I have applied a slight amount of heat with a small butane torch. This thing does not want to let go. Supposedly the manual for the 7600 is the same, but the 7600 does not have this brass button. I'm wondering if theres a set screw behind it. Does anyone have experience with these?

 

[wilehunting]

No,

 

[Coyote Shadow Tracker]

Trying to dissassemble this Rem model six .270 pump and the action tube will not break free.
I have bent two long handle allen wrenches and a tool I made from a broken decapping pin. I have applied a slight amount of heat with a small butane torch. This thing does not want to let go. Supposedly the manual for the 7600 is the same, but the 7600 does not have this brass button. I'm wondering if theres a set screw behind it. Does anyone have experience with these?

View attachment 735650

Someone probably glued the case head in. send a picture of the other end of the tube.

 

[wilehunting]

The Model Six came Factory with the cartridge case head there, it was a fancier version of the 760/7600. By the look of the attached exploded view there is a screw or bolt on the inside of the action. I had one but never had it apart beyond basic cleaning and sold it a few years ago. Maybe repost this in gunsmithing with the title 760/7600/Model Six disassembly.

 

[Hugger-4641]

The brass case head would be on the underside of part 23. The barrel passes thru the big opening, if there is a set screw it would be in the underside of part 23 and lock into part 28 or 27 , but I'm not seeing that in the diagram.
Thanks for the replies, I'll give it a day or two and then post a new thread title as you suggest, but I thought I did post this in Gunsmithing.

 

[Sealesniper]

Should just unscrew. I attached a video as well, but I am sure you have seen it.

 

[Horse1]

Trying to dissassemble this Rem model six .270 pump and the action tube will not break free.
I have bent two long handle allen wrenches and a tool I made from a broken decapping pin. I have applied a slight amount of heat with a small butane torch. This thing does not want to let go. Supposedly the manual for the 7600 is the same, but the 7600 does not have this brass button. I'm wondering if theres a set screw behind it. Does anyone have experience with these?

You have 3 options:

1. A harder tool to turn the tube, a good fitting punch like the above vid showed would be good.

2. Penetrating oil and time, multiple applications until you get it off or run out of patience and go to option 3.

3. More heat in combination with a better tool from option 1.

I'd also try to find a way to secure the rifle mechanically while trying to remove the tube. A barrel vice would be great. You've got a rifle that's 40+ yrs old and that tube has likely never been off. You've got the residue from cleaning and lubricating agents, any dirt/dust that's adhered to them, along with almost assuredly at least a little rust.

FWIW, I'd use a combo of #1 and #3. However I'm not very patient.

 

[Hugger-4641]

You have 3 options:

1. A harder tool to turn the tube, a good fitting punch like the above vid showed would be good.

2. Penetrating oil and time, multiple applications until you get it off or run out of patience and go to option 3.

3. More heat in combination with a better tool from option 1.

I'd also try to find a way to secure the rifle mechanically while trying to remove the tube. A barrel vice would be great. You've got a rifle that's 40+ yrs old and that tube has likely never been off. You've got the residue from cleaning and lubricating agents, any dirt/dust that's adhered to them, along with almost assuredly at least a little rust.

FWIW, I'd use a combo of #1 and #3. However I'm not very patient.

That's pretty much where I am now. Applying penetrating oil, let it set for a day or so, try again, add heat, try again. I'm in about the 4th cycle of that. I'm getting tempted to drill those spanner wrench holes out a little to get a bigger tool in them.
0.170" is the current diameter of those holes. I've bent everthing I have that fits in them. I'm gonna try to find a punch that fits tight and if that don't work I may get out the drill.

 

[Sealesniper]

Have you tried impact? If not, get a punch that fits tightly in the holes.
Have gun secured in vice if possible.
Heat receiver to warm enough you don't want to touch but not red hot. Don't let it cool as heat getting to the threads will expand the male threads you want to remove.
With a dead blow hammer or brass mallet, hit the punch to unscrew.

Many times tough to turn threads will yield with some impact but don't go nuts with the hit.

 

[Bobby Bailey]

Heating the receiver would be counter productive.
Heat the mag tube where it screws over the receiver stud, and use a proprly fitting tempred punch/rod through the holes to turn. Hammer taps for a little impact can help.
Rarely have we needed to use heat, Kroil usually works for us before needing heat.

 

[Sealesniper]

Heating the receiver would be counter productive.
Heat the mag tube where it screws over the receiver stud, and use a proprly fitting tempred punch/rod through the holes to turn. Hammer taps for a little impact can help.
Rarely have we needed to use heat, Kroil usually works for us before needing heat.

Heating the tube would cause the tube to expand, making the thread bond tighter. Heating the receiver would cause it to expand, thus making the bond slightly looser. To install a bearing on a shaft, you heat the bearing not the shaft, same applies here, you heat what you want to expand, and cool what you want to shrink.

 

[Bobby Bailey]

Heating the tube would cause the tube to expand, making the thread bond tighter. Heating the receiver would cause it to expand, thus making the bond slightly looser. To install a bearing on a shaft, you heat the bearing not the shaft, same applies here, you heat what you want to expand, and cool what you want to shrink.

The tube needs to expand to relieve torque on the stud.
Heating the receiver will in turn heat the stud, expanding it tighter in the mag tube.
Your analogy is decent,but you are looking at the wrong part to expand.
The receiver has an attached stud that the mag tube screws onto.
Expand the part needing expansion (the mag tube). In your analogy it is the bearing, the receiver stud is the shaft.

 

[skibbyshot]

I took apart a model 760 recently, it is likely a 1960ish one. There was a red substance on the stud, maybe red locktite. I used a well fitting hardened punch that fit almost perfectly with the received in my work vise with padded urethane jaws (magnetic - Amazon). It came off easier that I expected it to.

The cartridge head is I think inset into a hole for decoration & I very much doubt that it's screwed in. I agree with heating the tube after using kroil.

Good luck with it!

 

[Coyote Shadow Tracker]

The Model Six came Factory with the cartridge case head there, it was a fancier version of the 760/7600. By the look of the attached exploded view there is a screw or bolt on the inside of the action. I had one but never had it apart beyond basic cleaning and sold it a few years ago. Maybe repost this in gunsmithing with the title 760/7600/Model Six disassembly.

That sounds logical. I do remember some manufactures putting the case head in the action like this.