I need some input.

montana bob

Well-Known Member
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May 9, 2009
Messages
209
I bought a new rifle this year. A factory long range hunting rifle chambered in 7mm mag. I've hand loaded for many years and done very well with sorting out what works and what doesn't for my rifles. I'm perplexed with this one. I can't get a good solid MOA or less with it and when something appears to work when my first two shots are touching all of a sudden the next three climb in a verticle line about 2 1/2 inches straight up. I switched out bases and scopes and it does the same thing. I've tried many different loads, different bullet weights, different powders, different charges, different OAL's. Any Idea's besides I might have gotten a lemon. This is supposed to be a very good rifle.
 
Just an idea but do you work on a particular torque setting with the action screws?

I would check that & also maybe play with the torque a bit with the best performing loads you have & see how that goes

If that doesn't work there I have found bedding the action & recoil lug area can make a big difference as well.

What rifle is it anyway, this info could help us in helping you!

Also to add, I know you are saying you are a well versed reloader but what are these loads saying over a chrony??

If you have a high SD this could be the issue.
Are you getting consistent neck tension with your dies/brass?

There is a lot of things it could be so maybe make a list & tick them off as you go.

Barrel heating to much?
Brass need annealing?
Case prep all consistent?
Stock flex?
 
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I would first find a load that gives consistent velocities. Ideally you're looking for an extreme spread of 20fps or less for 5-10 shots. Then from there work on seating depth. Find your lands, seat 3 each off from 0.010 off to 0.060 off. Shoot those for groups. Pick out the best group, then fine tune that seat length in or out by 0.002 until you get the best group.
 
Have you shot factory loads? If so was there an accuracy difference? I wouldn't assume it's the rifle or the handloads until you can prove one or the other..
 
Maybe your bullets are too heavy or too light.? My 270 does something similar with 180 grain Woodleighs. First shot 4 inches high at 100 then two or three on target and clover leafed. Cold barrel stringing?
 
Just an idea but do you work on a particular torque setting with the action screws?

I would check that & also maybe play with the torque a bit with the best performing loads you have & see how that goes

If that doesn't work there I have found bedding the action & recoil lug area can make a big difference as well.

What rifle is it anyway, this info could help us in helping you!
This is a browning rifle and the lug comes bedded. I normally bed all my actions with Devcon. Thanks for the input. I guess it's time to invest in a Torque wrench.
 
It's a
have you done a ladder test?
two close shots and then a couple flyers might indicate that your at the top of your node, the next rounds are soaking in a hot chamber and pushing you out of your node.
Is the action bedded?
It's a Browning Rifle, it was sent out with the recoil lug bedded. I normally bed all my actions with Devcon.
 
I called Brown
Maybe your bullets are too heavy or too light.? My 270 does something similar with 180 grain Woodleighs. First shot 4 inches high at 100 then two or three on target and clover leafed. Cold barrel stringing?[/QUOTe
I called Browning today about the rifle and they said with the rate of twist of my barrel to only shoot weights between 150-175 gr and shoot Winchester, Remington or Federal soft points. I had been trying anything from 130gr to 147gr I did try some 175 gr today and 3 -150 gr but they didn't do any better. Not everything strings vertical some just open up between 2-3 inches. When I talked to Browning today they said they would send a prepaid sticker to ship it back but if it shoots 1 1/2 MOA they are sending it back. I don't mind shooting the heavier bullets but if all they recommend shooting is soft points that's dissapointing.
 
Have you shot factory loads? If so was there an accuracy difference? I wouldn't assume it's the rifle or the handloads until you can prove one or the other..
Yes, I bought a box of factory yesterday and shot some this morning with no difference.
 
Just an idea but do you work on a particular torque setting with the action screws?

I would check that & also maybe play with the torque a bit with the best performing loads you have & see how that goes

If that doesn't work there I have found bedding the action & recoil lug area can make a big difference as well.

What rifle is it anyway, this info could help us in helping you!

Also to add, I know you are saying you are a well versed reloader but what are these loads saying over a chrony??

If you have a high SD this could be the issue.
Are you getting consistent neck tension with your dies/brass?

There is a lot of things it could be so maybe make a list & tick them off as you go.

Barrel heating to much?
Brass need annealing?
Case prep all consistent?
Stock flex?
 
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