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Help me interpret a couple bore scope pics. Suspect throat is off center or crooked a bit.

cdherman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2008
Messages
579
Location
Kansas City
WIN_20231215_16_48_49_Pro.jpg

Pic 1 shows one "side" of the throat on my buddies 270 Win 700 BDL. The rifling starts showing up immediately after the neck ends. Note the decent amount of fire cracking. About 500 rounds down the tube, most trying to make it shoot (it never has).

WIN_20231215_16_49_46_Pro.jpg

Pic 2 is the camera rotated. Has the 90 deg lens on obviously. Other side of bore. No rifling.

WIN_20231215_16_50_52_Pro.jpg


Pic 3 Pushing the camera further in, perhaps .300" finally finds the beginnings of the rifling. Harder to show is that the pattern is kind of a parabola. You can see (I think) how the cutter was canted/tilted and the rifling is cut away most deeply on one land, then less on the lands on each side of that one, and least of all on the remaining. It LOOKS like the cutter even dug into the grooves some on the one side. If that makes sense.

I can seat bullets quite a ways out into the bore (and get a somewhat consistent BTO reading with my Hornady comparator. But nothing has ever shot well out of this gun. In spite of a Jewel trigger and good pillar bedding.

I've had my Teslong bore scope for years, have never seen this appearance before. All my good barrels (bartlein, Shilen, Proof) show a clear circular pattern where the lands appear in the throat. Even my 1894 Swedish Mauser looks pretty standard. The hammer forged barrel on my Tikka looks different than other barrels but shoots.

Am I interpreting this correctly? If so, I feel a re-barrel is the only option for this gun -- setting the shoulder back and re-throating a factory barrel makes no sense to me.
 
View attachment 521707
Pic 1 shows one "side" of the throat on my buddies 270 Win 700 BDL. The rifling starts showing up immediately after the neck ends. Note the decent amount of fire cracking. About 500 rounds down the tube, most trying to make it shoot (it never has).

View attachment 521709
Pic 2 is the camera rotated. Has the 90 deg lens on obviously. Other side of bore. No rifling.

View attachment 521710

Pic 3 Pushing the camera further in, perhaps .300" finally finds the beginnings of the rifling. Harder to show is that the pattern is kind of a parabola. You can see (I think) how the cutter was canted/tilted and the rifling is cut away most deeply on one land, then less on the lands on each side of that one, and least of all on the remaining. It LOOKS like the cutter even dug into the grooves some on the one side. If that makes sense.

I can seat bullets quite a ways out into the bore (and get a somewhat consistent BTO reading with my Hornady comparator. But nothing has ever shot well out of this gun. In spite of a Jewel trigger and good pillar bedding.

I've had my Teslong bore scope for years, have never seen this appearance before. All my good barrels (bartlein, Shilen, Proof) show a clear circular pattern where the lands appear in the throat. Even my 1894 Swedish Mauser looks pretty standard. The hammer forged barrel on my Tikka looks different than other barrels but shoots.

Am I interpreting this correctly? If so, I feel a re-barrel is the only option for this gun -- setting the shoulder back and re-throating a factory barrel makes no sense to me.
Yes, if the lands are longer on one side than the other, that would say it is not concentric.
 
You have a chamber that is not concentric to the bore as 338 stated. Question...is the fire cracking the same 0.3" further like in pic 3 but 180 degrees opposite of it? I would say you should have more cracking on the short side of the chamber miss alignment.
I wondered about that. No -- the fire cracking is fairly concentric.
Sounds like you have talked yourself into a new Barrel. When you change it go with a 8 twist. 👍🎅
Indeed. No interest in changing bolt-face. And my buddy bought this gun as his FIRST rifle, so he's not wanting to change things much. If I were doing it, I'd re-barrel to 6.5x284 or 280 AI. He has a 338 RUM and a 6.5 CM, both tack drivers but heavy.. But we also have 200 rds of Nosler 270 Win brass, and Forster Micrometer 270 dies. So why deviate from the 270 Win? Current barrel is a 22" IIRC. Too lazy to walk to basement to measure. Me, I'd keep Rem factory contour, but extend to 24 or so. It would be his "light rifle" -- other stuff in the meantime is suppressed and heavy. He needs a light accurate gun. 280 AI would be better -- good for Elk down the road since that is in the "wish book". I have dies for that too. But I think he's partial to the 270...

When was the rifle made? Guessing in the last 23 years.
Indeed. About 2008 if my research into serial numbers is correct. That was about when I invited him to hunt with me.

I did some more internet sleuthing. My description seems to mirror a number of rem 700 problems in the last 20 years. Some shoot OK, some not. Somehow, Remington was reaming the throats crooked. Could be the entire chamber is "cock-eyed" as I would have said in my younger days!
 
So Cock Eyed is only used when younger. I use old slang even today. Called my youngest Grandson a Fart Knocker last night. Back on topic.
Looks like you have the one of the majority of VISTA junk Remingtons. Put a new Rem Contour 24" in .270 on it and call it good. Maybe...Maybe a slightly, just slightly faster twist to be possibly able to shoot heavier. The original and old .270 was and is more than enough for elk.
 
Looks just like a 30-06 rem 700 my dad had from about the same era. Never would shoot. As others said just keep it a 270 since you're setup on components already and put a 7.5 or 8 twist on it.
 
I put the gun in the mail today. Decided to keep the 22" barrel (I would have went longer, but my buddy would like to use the gun more for stalking, carry etc. So he wanted to keep the short barrel. I can see his point. He's got a stinking 338 RUM for long range stuff!) Went with Shaw Barrels. They have a discount going till the end of the year. New barrel, 8.5:1 twist, in factory Rem contour, install barrel and true the receiver, reblue receiver and barrel to match. Came to a touch under $500. 4-6 month wait.

Internet has a few bad stories about Shaw. But the internet has a few bad stories about everyone. We shall see. The local talent here in the KC area is either not taking new orders, or is booked out 24 months. And the prices are painful. We are not looking for a 0.1" gun (but would be nice if it happens), but something you can safely shoot to 400 yards would be nice.

Thanks for the advice fellas...

Oh -- tried to screw the factory barrel off to make shipping easier. I have a Wheeler action wrench/vice. Since the barrel is crap, I just bolted the action into the Wheeler and tried a 15" pipe wrench on the barrel. No Dice. I could not move it and I was starting to worry I would damage the receiver. I am a big man, 6'5" 250 and some of that is still muscle. :D I hope the fellas at Shaw know some tricks. Heat? But that risks screwing up the hardening of the lugs I'd think......
 
So Cock Eyed is only used when younger. I use old slang even today. Called my youngest Grandson a Fart Knocker last night. Back on topic.
Looks like you have the one of the majority of VISTA junk Remingtons. Put a new Rem Contour 24" in .270 on it and call it good. Maybe...Maybe a slightly, just slightly faster twist to be possibly able to shoot heavier. The original and old .270 was and is more than enough for elk.
Now days I tries to use better Inglish. But the term catty-wampus also comes to mind! I wanted the 24" but my bud wanted to keep original. He's paying and its his gun! I'm just happy he agreed to ditch that barrel. I like new barrels in old guns. More fun that a new gun IMHO.
 
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