OK I bought a HS precision blank a few years back that is 10x cut rifled .338 with a 9.5 twist 1.250 to 1.20 @ 33". My intent was to build a pretty heavy .338 ultra to shoot 300 gr smk,s so i had it chambered in .338 Ultra,and screwed on a rem 700 action that was in 7 mag. I never had the smith alter the feed rails for the ultra case as i was going to shoot single shot. after looking in my safe i have decided to go a different route. I THINK! Any way I want to build a carry gun about 11lbs or so. I was thinking about having the barrel turned down and fluted. I think since its cut rifled i should be ok to have this done.Can any one recomend a smith to do this for me? Also suggestions as to contour? I was thinking about a med palma taper fluted to finish @ 30" stock suggestions? the scope will be a leupold 4.5x14x40mm 1 inch tube with a multiple dot reticle from Lee (they do nice work). So build me a gun guys! thanks for your help and after the suggestions will keep ypu guys posted and will post pics when completed
help me build my carry gun & can i get my barrel contoured?
- Thread starter ackleyguy
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royinidaho
Well-Known Member
Well, Hmmmmm,
Just did the same thing in 338 RUM and ended up right at 10# w/scope and sling.
I Hmmmmm, because I would be hard put to reduce the contour and length of that barrel and twist because I think that the barrel would be worthy of a truly long range rifle. Something like the 338 Edge and shoot the 300 SMK as you desired or the even heavier Wildcat pills.
It is my opinion that a 338 RUM barrel needs to be no longer than 26" to wring max velocities out of it. I've also found that 30" + brake is too long for a carry gun. 27" is even too long IMO. 24 to 26 length seems to be about right. In addition a heavy contour 30" barrel is hard to hold steady for long for an off hand shot and useless for a jump shot. With the Edge and 300 SMKs you could shoot from the north end of Washington county into the south end of Butler Co. easily. With the 338 RUM your range would be limited to the North Hills area. (a little humor there)
My 270 AM has a 30" #7 Lilja fluted with Defensive Edge brake, carbalite stock, Leupold bases, Burris signature rings and Supersniper scope and weighs in right at 12#. But it sure isn't a carry gun. In fact I drag it pretty much where ever I go and set it up an there it says.
Here's some pics. It looked really good with the flat black stock, and just unique after the long hair'd guy with the chain saw blade neckless at the paint booth a the local fair put the Krylon to it. But hey, it was fun and she still shoots great.
FWIW
Just did the same thing in 338 RUM and ended up right at 10# w/scope and sling.
I Hmmmmm, because I would be hard put to reduce the contour and length of that barrel and twist because I think that the barrel would be worthy of a truly long range rifle. Something like the 338 Edge and shoot the 300 SMK as you desired or the even heavier Wildcat pills.
It is my opinion that a 338 RUM barrel needs to be no longer than 26" to wring max velocities out of it. I've also found that 30" + brake is too long for a carry gun. 27" is even too long IMO. 24 to 26 length seems to be about right. In addition a heavy contour 30" barrel is hard to hold steady for long for an off hand shot and useless for a jump shot. With the Edge and 300 SMKs you could shoot from the north end of Washington county into the south end of Butler Co. easily. With the 338 RUM your range would be limited to the North Hills area. (a little humor there)
My 270 AM has a 30" #7 Lilja fluted with Defensive Edge brake, carbalite stock, Leupold bases, Burris signature rings and Supersniper scope and weighs in right at 12#. But it sure isn't a carry gun. In fact I drag it pretty much where ever I go and set it up an there it says.
Here's some pics. It looked really good with the flat black stock, and just unique after the long hair'd guy with the chain saw blade neckless at the paint booth a the local fair put the Krylon to it. But hey, it was fun and she still shoots great.
FWIW
Hi i would see if their is someone that would buy that barrel and get a new one already contoured to your desired profile. The added cost of reprofiling will be more than the loss on that barrel and buying a new one. You may even be able to swap it for another barrel with someone.
As for contour the Sendaro fluted contour is very good stiff and not to heavy and they shoot very well or a No5 profile i would also look at chambering it in 338 Edge or 338 Ultra if you want to use factory ammo. I could probably get a Sendaro barrel for you in 338 Ultra and pay some extra for the cost of your barrel.
Cheers Bill
Australia
As for contour the Sendaro fluted contour is very good stiff and not to heavy and they shoot very well or a No5 profile i would also look at chambering it in 338 Edge or 338 Ultra if you want to use factory ammo. I could probably get a Sendaro barrel for you in 338 Ultra and pay some extra for the cost of your barrel.
Cheers Bill
Australia
James Jones
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2002
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- 2,854
Wether the barrel is cut rifled or not I would not risk ruining it by fluting or re-profiling , it can be done but one little oopps and it'll be ruined.
I would eithr sell it or hold onto it for another project , I'm sure that sombody here would be willing to trade or buy it. That is sure enough a big pipe though
Hey Roy , thats a cute pink stock , looks like the palm sweel idea worked out for ya , its a shame that you put it on the "wrong" side of the stock though /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I would eithr sell it or hold onto it for another project , I'm sure that sombody here would be willing to trade or buy it. That is sure enough a big pipe though
Hey Roy , thats a cute pink stock , looks like the palm sweel idea worked out for ya , its a shame that you put it on the "wrong" side of the stock though /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Ackleyguy, I second what the others said, sell that barrel and buy one in the profile you want. A smith would have to cut 60 degree centers on your already chambered barrel, put it between centers turn it down, flute it, rethread, extend the chamber, and recrown. That is alot of extra expense, plus the gamble of barrel stress induction.
With a new barrel you could also rethink your need for a 338 bore for a carry gun.
I have a 300 win mag on a #5 Lija 26" skim bedded into and HS stock. Kind of a reach out carry gun, it's very accurate. Only problem is recoil with 200 gr accubonds is about all I will tolerate w/o a brake. Something to think about when building a 338 UM.
With a new barrel you could also rethink your need for a 338 bore for a carry gun.
I have a 300 win mag on a #5 Lija 26" skim bedded into and HS stock. Kind of a reach out carry gun, it's very accurate. Only problem is recoil with 200 gr accubonds is about all I will tolerate w/o a brake. Something to think about when building a 338 UM.
NYLES
Well-Known Member
Roy,
Whats wrong with the paint job!....Wife said it looks awfull....sexy!
I vote sell old barrel buy new, just like you want it!
Whats wrong with the paint job!....Wife said it looks awfull....sexy!
I vote sell old barrel buy new, just like you want it!
davewilson
Well-Known Member
THANK YOU JD, it is a pretty pretty pink stock now isn't it!
as a side note, i have a 29" barrel/brake on my gun and the whole thing is only 40" long. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
as a side note, i have a 29" barrel/brake on my gun and the whole thing is only 40" long. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Thank you guys for all your input....I may just end up selling the barreled action...or may just keep it and build a .338 EDGE....Gonna stay with a .338 though as where i am going caribou hunting this year there are some(very few) Polar bears and i dont want anything less. I was up there 3 years ago and they ended up shooting one in camp...now i never saw one but u better belive i looked at my .270 with alot of....well lets just say hope! Roy I like the stock alot! tell me, what did it start out as? and what did you build it up with? i got a 7 mm mag PSS that i want to play with a bit and i would like to extend the pistol grip out a bit and thicken the palm swell as well/ thought about using Bondo to do this but thought where the edge was featherd may produce a crack line over time thru the paint....thanks again guys
royinidaho
Well-Known Member
Cut my teeth on fox, coon, rabbits, pheasants, grouse, chucks, deer up in Eau Claire in Butler County. My brother is Chips Kennels and runs super hooty high priced setters all over the place.
That poor stock went through several different phases and I. I used Bondo on the entire stock to get rid of the wood grain and checkering. BTW it was a BDL stock. I also used Bondo to fill the mag well and bottom metal area. The Bondo cracked and shrunk in the mag well and fell out. I JB Welded it back in.
Bondo is ok if not applied too thick. Way too thick and it cracks.
I used resin and fiber glass cloth for the palm swell then covered it with Bondo then covered that with the stuff that comes in a clear plastic tube, black in the center and grey on the out side. You squeeze it around until it mixed to a grey color and gets hot. If you wet you fingers it can be smoothed well. It works well with a file/rasp and sandpaper after it hardens.
The resin and cloth is not on the list of things to use any more. The edges of the cloth show through too easily.
Palm swells are great with that squeeze it up stuff. Just glob a bunch on there, but not too much /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif cover with a piece of plastic wrap and shoulder the stock and squeeze with you hand and whaa la you have a palm swell that fits with only a little additional finish work.
For the rough black color of the stock I used pick up bed liner. All the p/u guys use black so that is all that's available in the local stores. So that'w what I used. Its finishes as hard as Hades and gives a very good grip with out having to resort to non skid or that garsh awful stuff McMillan does to those A5s around the grip and fore arm. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
That poor stock went through several different phases and I. I used Bondo on the entire stock to get rid of the wood grain and checkering. BTW it was a BDL stock. I also used Bondo to fill the mag well and bottom metal area. The Bondo cracked and shrunk in the mag well and fell out. I JB Welded it back in.
Bondo is ok if not applied too thick. Way too thick and it cracks.
I used resin and fiber glass cloth for the palm swell then covered it with Bondo then covered that with the stuff that comes in a clear plastic tube, black in the center and grey on the out side. You squeeze it around until it mixed to a grey color and gets hot. If you wet you fingers it can be smoothed well. It works well with a file/rasp and sandpaper after it hardens.
The resin and cloth is not on the list of things to use any more. The edges of the cloth show through too easily.
Palm swells are great with that squeeze it up stuff. Just glob a bunch on there, but not too much /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif cover with a piece of plastic wrap and shoulder the stock and squeeze with you hand and whaa la you have a palm swell that fits with only a little additional finish work.
For the rough black color of the stock I used pick up bed liner. All the p/u guys use black so that is all that's available in the local stores. So that'w what I used. Its finishes as hard as Hades and gives a very good grip with out having to resort to non skid or that garsh awful stuff McMillan does to those A5s around the grip and fore arm. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
