WeiserBucks
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Any of our member gunsmiths recommended to bush the firing pin on a R700 bolt ?
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Danny1788
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J E Custom
Well-Known Member
Before you bush the bolt, Talk to PT&G about an oversize firing pin.
That way you don't alter the bolt.
J E CUSTOM
That way you don't alter the bolt.
J E CUSTOM
Any other Smiths recommended to perform this work? Greg Tannel is not taking any new work.
Any good gunsmith should be able to do this.
You'd be surprised. Looking for someone that's recommended by someone here as I don't have anyone local in my area.
I've been struggling to find someone who will take work around here. Had a custom rifle builder do some great work for me last year and now he's turned me down to focus on his builds
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
I'm out of std. bolt face extractors, clip in and riveted. No magnums, either. Any time you remove an extractor from a Rem 700 bolt, there's a chance you'll need to put a new one in. There are no Remington parts. If it's the old, riveted type, you will need a new rivet at minimum. The riveted type isn't available from Brownells anymore. Many don't like it when you tell 'um they'll need to spend another $100+ for an aftermarket extractor install.
First of all has this problem just started or has it always been a problem? What is the PROBLEM to say that you need to "Bush" the firing pin and who recommended it? I assume that this is a Remington. Remington has had several owners in th past few ears. I would check there first for a warrenty coverage. You have to diagnose the problem. I did some reasearch and read this first before doing anyhting else.
Before cutting any metal (or melting any, either), determine why the strike is off center. It may have nothing to do with the firing pin hole being off center, which is the only error that messing with the firing pin hole will correct.
Try this procedure. Take a fired case that does not have asymmetrical expansion and drive out the dead primer with a punch (DO NOT full length resize the case to remove the primer, we want an expanded case to do this experiment with.) Seat a new primer in the case and then fire it in the gun. Examine the firing pin hit on the case for concentricity. If it is close enough, your problem is the small case/large chamber problem which may be cured by neck sizing your cases instead of full length sizing. If you use only factory ammo, you are out of luck unless you want to rebarrel with a minimum chamber.
There are other potential misalignment problems that might cause off center primer hits. The barrel threads might not be concentric with the bore; the receiver threads might not be concentric with the bolt; the bolt may be undersize for the receiver (loose in the receiver), chamber may not be aligned with the bore.
Normally a firing pin hole is bushed, or welded and redrilled, only if it is too big and you are getting primer material extruded back around the firing pin. If I had to do it I would heavily heat sink the bolt head while holding it vertically in a vise, and with a TIG welder, quickly puddle the firing pin hole and stick some filler in the puddle. Then turn off the current and let things cool. Properly done, this will not affect the heat treatment of the lugs. Then center in the four jaw and center drill and drill to your desired hole diameter.
But frankly, unless you are having misfire problems or inaccuracy attributable to inconsistent ignition (highly variable velocities as measured with an accurate chronograph), You should not worry about it. It is too complicated and expensive to correct if the cause is not an off-center firing pin hole.
Thanks
Len & Jill
Before cutting any metal (or melting any, either), determine why the strike is off center. It may have nothing to do with the firing pin hole being off center, which is the only error that messing with the firing pin hole will correct.
Try this procedure. Take a fired case that does not have asymmetrical expansion and drive out the dead primer with a punch (DO NOT full length resize the case to remove the primer, we want an expanded case to do this experiment with.) Seat a new primer in the case and then fire it in the gun. Examine the firing pin hit on the case for concentricity. If it is close enough, your problem is the small case/large chamber problem which may be cured by neck sizing your cases instead of full length sizing. If you use only factory ammo, you are out of luck unless you want to rebarrel with a minimum chamber.
There are other potential misalignment problems that might cause off center primer hits. The barrel threads might not be concentric with the bore; the receiver threads might not be concentric with the bolt; the bolt may be undersize for the receiver (loose in the receiver), chamber may not be aligned with the bore.
Normally a firing pin hole is bushed, or welded and redrilled, only if it is too big and you are getting primer material extruded back around the firing pin. If I had to do it I would heavily heat sink the bolt head while holding it vertically in a vise, and with a TIG welder, quickly puddle the firing pin hole and stick some filler in the puddle. Then turn off the current and let things cool. Properly done, this will not affect the heat treatment of the lugs. Then center in the four jaw and center drill and drill to your desired hole diameter.
But frankly, unless you are having misfire problems or inaccuracy attributable to inconsistent ignition (highly variable velocities as measured with an accurate chronograph), You should not worry about it. It is too complicated and expensive to correct if the cause is not an off-center firing pin hole.
Thanks
Len & Jill
Thanks for the lengthy reply. My issue has to do with primer flow back running small rifle primers and has nothing to do with being off center. I had this issue before on my 6.5x47 Lapua and had the firing pin bushed and it corrected the issue. I'm now running a 6mm Creedmoor with SRP brass and have the same issue. Bushing the firing pin should resolve the flow back. It's not that costly to have done $95 includes return shipping.
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
jgs8163, yours is the reason to have a firing pin hole bushed. Primer flow back. Off center hits are usually caused by barrel receiver alinement issues. Although, it is not unheard of because of a heavily worn bolt or bolt being undersized for the receiver it's used in. I don't believe I'd weld with any method on the bolt face/lug end of a bolt. It's just not done. A good bushing job will be done so that the firing pin is supported in the hole when the firing pin is cocked. From the factory, it is not. When the pin tip is not supported (when cocked), it can create drag. In the past I have used a threaded bushing, soft soldered into place. Maybe I should investigate another method of 'locking' my threaded bushing in, as I have always been afraid of the heat from even soft solder taking the 'spring' out of the Remington extractor. I should also point out, the 'new' company that will be making Remington firearms won't be honoring any warranty from previous Remington firearms makers, just as Winchester does not warranty New Haven made firearms (Winchester is now owned by FN, I believe. Made in South Carolina). And at the moment, any Remington parts are unobtainum, anywhere.
shortgrass
Well-Known Member
This is what you're striving for when you bush a firing pin;
Nice depection and cut out. This is great, but how does the owner of the bolt nkow what is wrong unless they cut their bolt in half?? If you have some realtime examples of the bolt cut out splease show them, and then also show a bolt head where the firing pin hole is out of round. Would be a better presentation.
Thanks
Len
Thanks
Len
