Gunsmith for 30 Nosler

Any competent gunsmith can improve the accuracy of most factory rifles. The basic accuracy job usually includes, truing of the action, installation of a match grade barrel, bedding with or without pillars. You could also opt for a heavy weight recoil lug and a quality trigger to round things out.

It all depends on how much you want to spend to enhance the potential accuracy of your rifle. Remember the three Bs of accuracy, barrel, bedding, bullets.
 
Yep.

As I asked above (and this isn't a criticism)- what is your experience shooting lightweight magnums?
Shooting an 8 lb. heavy magnum accurately is not something that everyone can do. Even with the brake, that rifle punches hard- and many shooters develop an unconscious flinch; jerking or pulling the trigger to one side without realizing it. For those inexperienced with this, having someone else drive the rifle can rule shooter error in or out...

Check to make sure your action screws are torqued to spec, that you can slide a business card between the barrel and the stock full length, scope mount and rings also torqued to specs. Anything loose, will trash your accuracy. If everything is tight, and it still won't shoot swap out the optic with a known "good" one (assuming that's a new scope). Not common, but even some upper mid-tier scopes can be duds from the factory. Needless to say, a $100 Barska will have it's reticle banging around in the tube in short order.
I've shot the rifle quite a bit and I am completely comfortable with it. I'm a bit of an oddball and like guns with a good amount of recoil.. LOL
 
Any competent gunsmith can improve the accuracy of most factory rifles. The basic accuracy job usually includes, truing of the action, installation of a match grade barrel, bedding with or without pillars. You could also opt for a heavy weight recoil lug and a quality trigger to round things out.

It all depends on how much you want to spend to enhance the potential accuracy of your rifle. Remember the three Bs of accuracy, barrel, bedding, bullets.
I appreciate the input good sir! I'm hoping to do some shooting with Lance soon and see what he thinks..
 
Any competent gunsmith can improve the accuracy of most factory rifles. The basic accuracy job usually includes, truing of the action, installation of a match grade barrel, bedding with or without pillars. You could also opt for a heavy weight recoil lug and a quality trigger to round things out.

It all depends on how much you want to spend to enhance the potential accuracy of your rifle. Remember the three Bs of accuracy, barrel, bedding, bullets.

That's not accurizing, that's a simi-custom rifle build. Not a bad way to go if you want to spend the coin.
 
My suggestion was to try tuning with handloads before anything else. Factory ammo is rarely optimal.

A lot can go into a "new barrel". The OP questioned CF barrels. That means either opening up the barrel channel on the stock, or replacing the stock. Not a lot of Browning aftermarket options. Then a new brake. Cerakote. All that work and still shooting factory ammo could yield zero results. So now you dive into handloading. Which should probably be one of the first steps.

Then there is a good trigger. Good triggers can make a big difference, even in a factory rifle. And a much cheaper first step compared to a barrel replacement.
 
My suggestion was to try tuning with handloads before anything else. Factory ammo is rarely optimal.

A lot can go into a "new barrel". The OP questioned CF barrels. That means either opening up the barrel channel on the stock, or replacing the stock. Not a lot of Browning aftermarket options. Then a new brake. Cerakote. All that work and still shooting factory ammo could yield zero results. So now you dive into handloading. Which should probably be one of the first steps.

Then there is a good trigger. Good triggers can make a big difference, even in a factory rifle. And a much cheaper first step compared to a barrel replacement.

I got on the carbon barrel bandwagon for a while, but at twice the price, it sure doesn't seem worth the while anymore. Personally, I think they are more "trendy" than anything else. I was happy to grab my last Bartlein SS bbl for a mere $440. :D
 
I got on the carbon barrel bandwagon for a while, but at twice the price, it sure doesn't seem worth the while anymore. Personally, I think they are more "trendy" than anything else. I was happy to grab my last Bartlein SS bbl for a mere $440. :D
What was the weight difference between the CF and a SS barrel? My plan is to use my rifle for elk and Pronghorn.
 
All depends on contour. #3 steel will weigh about the same as CF Sendero contour. But, the CF will be stiffer and less "whippy". You can most definitely tune a small contour steel barrel. But burning a lot of powder will cause them to heat up really quickly.
 
What was the weight difference between the CF and a SS barrel? My plan is to use my rifle for elk and Pronghorn.

My carbons were Bartleins which are reportedly a bit heavier than Proof and a few others. I never bothered to count the oz difference between the carbon and a sporting weight SS bbl.

Weight wasn't a big issue for me. I just wanted to try a few carbons and assess them myself. While I like the carbon barrels, they are not worth double the cost of a high-end match SS bbl. Not for me, anyway.
 
My carbons were Bartleins which are reportedly a bit heavier than Proof and a few others. I never bothered to count the oz difference between the carbon and a sporting weight SS bbl.

Weight wasn't a big issue for me. I just wanted to try a few carbons and assess them myself. While I like the carbon barrels, they are not worth double the cost of a high-end match SS bbl. Not for me, anyway.
Valid point! I was looking at Proof Research last night. $920 for a barrel.. LOL
 
All depends on contour. #3 steel will weigh about the same as CF Sendero contour. But, the CF will be stiffer and less "whippy". You can most definitely tune a small contour steel barrel. But burning a lot of powder will cause them to heat up really quickly.
Agree with LK.

For me carbon makes sense for 22+" if you shoot suppressed…yes, I have a 16 and 20" just cuz I like the look. But for the longer barrels and needing a .725 shoulder puts you into a heavy profile steel barrel that adds a ton of weight over carbon.
 
Agree with LK.

For me carbon makes sense for 22+" if you shoot suppressed…yes, I have a 16 and 20" just cuz I like the look. But for the longer barrels and needing a .725 shoulder puts you into a heavy profile steel barrel that adds a ton of weight over carbon.
What if I don't shoot suppressed? My rifle has a 26" barrel.. Probably gonna keep it the same or got to 28"
 

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