DIY Long Range Rig

Hondo64d

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 27, 2003
Messages
733
Location
The Big Country
I've been interested a DIY "custom" rifle for a while now and not having a lathe limits my options to a pre-chambered an threaded barrel and a barrel nut. I've considered a Savage action, but from what I read, there is much work that needs to be done to them. That left the Bighorn and the Shilen actions. I happened to stop in to see the folks at Shilen a few months back and while there, made the mistake of fondling one of their DGR actions. I didn't have the heart to leave without it. The action with lug and double pinned 20 MOA rail was about $1k out the door.

The action is on a 700 footprint and will fit in any stock inletted for a 700.

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The action allows for a single or double pinned lug. It came with a PT&G lug that is drilled for dual pins, so there is no reason to not go that route.

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The bolt, made for Shilen by PT&G, has a floating bolt head like a Savage. Supposedly allows for full lug contact. From the wear pattern on mine, that appears to be the case.

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The firing pin and hole are small, as is the ejector hole, making it nice for cartridges that use a small rifle primer. There is no downside the a small firing pin and hole and all my rifles from here out will have that feature.

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Did a bit of reading and decided to go with a varmint weight Criterion Barrel in 6.5x47 Lapua from Northland Shooters' Supply . Also got a trued barrel nut and wrench from NSS. Very happy with the CBI barrel and will very likely use another when I get my next barrel. More on that later.

Picked up a used HS Precision stock with PT&G DBM bottom metal from the 24 Hour Campfire classifieds.

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Like all HS stocks, it has the aluminum bedding block.

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But, this one was sent back to PT&G to be inletted for their DBM bottom metal.

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The inletting was perfect and the AICS mags feed perfectly. I wasn't sure I would like a DBM setup, but they simply cannot be beat for generous COAL constraints, great feeding and convenience.

Got PT&G go and no-go gages from Midway and commenced to assemble my rifle. I wish I had taken pictures of the assembly process, but suffice it to say it is a simple process. I put the barrel nut over the barrel then put the barrel in my barrel vice, put the lug on the action, held in place by the pins and partially screwed the action onto the barrel. I then put the go gage in the chamber and closed the bolt and screwed the action on until I felt light contact on the go gage. I then attached the nut wrench to my torque wrench and torqued the barrel to the specs suggested by NSS (the number escapes me right now). Checked the headspace. Bolt closed on the go gage with the slightest of resistance and would not close on the no-go gage. Good to go...

Bolted the barreled action into the stock. Thought about bedding it, but was curious to see how a true bolt-together rifle would shoot so elected not to. Initially mounted a 16x Super Sniper in SWFA rings, but have since changed out the scope to my 3-12 LRHS in the same SWFA rings.

For load development I did a combination of a ladder and OCW method, shooting three rounds of each powder charge at the same POA at 500 yards. Was shooting 130gr Hunting VLDs, gently kissing the lands pushed by Varget. I had two consecutive charges, 37.4 and 37.8gr (6 shots) group in about 2" at 500 yards so split the difference between the charges and loaded up 37.6gr.

Here is a group I shot yesterday at 500 yards. It is about 2". It is very repeatable and I have done it several times with this load at the same distance.

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Also worked up another load yesterday using the same method but different components, this time using H4350 behind 140gr ELDs. I shot three-shot groups of 4 different charges in .4gr increments. Eleven of the 12 shots went into less than 4" at 500 yards. Very wide node there. I'll likely pick the middle of the charges and drive on.

All things considered, I'm extremely satisfied with the project. This rifle is, so far, the best shooting rig I have ever had, and I've had a bunch, put together by some of the best in the business.

I encourage everyone to give this route a try. You might be pleasantly surprised at the results and save some $ to boot.

John
 
John, you did excellent on your build, your load, and your shooting..Congratulations


Don Dunlap
 
How is the extractor? Any issues enecting a fired case?

Also curious if you have a concentricity gauge you could measure a fired round. Im curious as to how concentric the barrel nut puts everything.
 
How is the extractor? Any issues enecting a fired case?

Also curious if you have a concentricity gauge you could measure a fired round. Im curious as to how concentric the barrel nut puts everything.

I've run loads warm enough to give me ejector swipes and no issues with extraction so far. I don't understand how a barrel nut would effect concentricity of a fired case because the case is in the chamber and how true the chamber was cut will determine that. But, FWIW, I just put a case on my Sinclair concentricity gauge and the needle barely even moves. The dial indicator only reads to .001" but judging by how much the needle moves I'd say runout on a fired case is <.0002"

John
 
How is the extractor? Any issues enecting a fired case?

Also curious if you have a concentricity gauge you could measure a fired round. Im curious as to how concentric the barrel nut puts everything.

That's the cool thing about a barrel nut build. If something is off you can fix it at home. You can adjust headspace and even true up anything that isn't just completely FUBAR.
Try to "tune" headspace for more velocity or less brass waste without a nut.
 
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