Customizing a Ruger #1

[7ultra]

Hey guys, need some advice
I've got a Ruger #1 that I'am thinking about customizing. Primary concerns would be to replace the barrel and rework/replace the forend stock. The barrel is doesn't concern me, it's mor the forend that I am at a loss with. Should I try and bed the block and open up the channel? Are there any other accurizing tips for this gun. Any suggestions would be nice, I would really like to tune this gun.

 

[TOM H]

When I had my #1 rebarreled had the gunsmith bed the forend. They open the barrel channel since barrel was alittle heavier and fluted it was changed from a 7mag to 30-338. I looked at alot of option on bedding but decided to go with what the gunsmith recommended and that rifle is pretty close to 20yrs old and still holds zero. I've also got a tight neck 22br,6ppc bedded the same way and factory #1 300wby mag. On the varmit calibers I had a set triggers installed and the hunting rifles just tuned up. I also changed out the hammer springs. One of the reasons I let the gunsmith bed the rifle is if it didn't work I have some recourse and none of my rifles have are bedded with anything other than bedding compound. Well good luck. I'd highly rec:

 

[lead foot]

Personal observations and opinions which I may catch flack for:

There isn't much point in free floating a #1 barrel IMHO. It's never made any difference for me. I do quite the opposite and full contact-bed the barrel and forend. I've had my gunsmith drill and tap the forend hanger to put in a set screw by which I can adjust pressure between the hanger and barrel. That's made a major difference in the accuracy of the 3 rifles I've tried it on. The one other thing that seems to help is relieving a little bit of wood between the back of the forend and the front of the action so it's not binding. Between the three, I've been able to get pretty fair accuracy out of #1s, probably on par with most factory bolt actions. 'course, in saying that, I'm comparing out of the box bolt action with customized #1 to get "equality."

One thing about #1s ... generally the heavier the barrel and lighter the stock is, the better the gun will shoot. The #1B seems to be the hardest to get to shoot, the #1H is easiest, and the rest fall somewhere in the middle. The wide forend on the 1B and 1V allows more torque against the forend hanger which causes groups to open up. The narrower forend on the #1S and #1H seems to help them shoot better. I haven't messed with the #1 international and only a teeny bit with the #1A.