Cost of a new scope?

I think the shooting hours are set to give game animals a rest and a chance to eat and re-produce. You can shoot pigs and coyotes and raccoons and possums all night long. I have a swaro 1.5-6x42 that is great for such non- sporting critters.
the 30-40 additional minutes a day that I can clearly see with my zeiss, when I cannot shoot due to shooting hours, is not enough time for the deer to go around and reproduce to any quantitative degree that would make a difference in their life cycle. The hours are set because somebody with cheap glass will try to shoot when he can't identify his target clearly, and that's when accidents happen.

unfortunately, that 30-40 minutes is exactly when the deer start moving after holding tight and resting all day.
 
I heard one should spend 1 1/2-2X as much on a scope as for the rifle. I'm scraping together enough to get a Weatherby titanium 6.5 RPM for over $3,000. I have never heard of a $6,000 scope. What do I do now?
On that rifle and caliber I would not recommend a heavy scope like NightForce. I enjoyed working in optics for three years after I retired. Here's my thought: at dusk checkout: Leupold VX-6HD 4-24 x 52; Leica ER 6.5-26x56 LRS; and a Swarovski X5i. They all are less 1X your rifle cost
 
For people that spend 5 minutes behind a $1000 scope and then a $3000 scope, you won't really notice as big of a difference as someone who spends hours and hours behind a scope. Sure, you will notice it is clearer, but not the other qualities. Color, brightness, edge to edge, eye relief, eye box, eye strain, contrast, chromatic aberration (or lack there of), resolution, depth of field, parallax, "pop". Same as binoculars. Same reasons guys who spend hundreds of hours a year behind them spend $1500-2500+ for Swaros/Zeiss/Leica/Meopta vs. $100-300 Bushnells.
I recently got a newly built .280AI from a friend to quickly work up a load before he heads to Mexico for a Coues hunt. His Tikka has such a low Picatinny rail, none of my scopes would clear his barrel with the objective. The ONLY scope I had that cleared is a $700 SWFA SS 3-15×42 from one of my 10/22s. So I used it to work up a load and go verify at long range. While most people would think the SWFA SS is a great scope, and I agree for the price, it is awesome, compared to all my others, it is far from "Alpha" glass. Is it good enough for 95% of people? Absolutely. But once you get a taste of the great stuff, hard to go back to the good stuff, let alone the OK or "meh" stuff.
I honestly believe, anyone that says their $700-1000 optic is as clear as a true Alpha level scope, have either: never really spent time behind one, are justifying their purchase, or are not being honest with themselves. But, I don't think Alpha glass is for everyone. Lots of other things take priority. Some guys just have a different situation.
I spend 5-6+ hours a week behind a riflescope. And I can DEFINITELY see a big difference in glass. Let alone tracking, reliability, RTZ, turrets, features, etc.
 
Well I paid upwards of $1,700. for my 6.5 PRC Browning X-Bolt Pro.
Then I bought a $970. (street price) Bushnell Elite LRTS 4.5 - 18 x 44 scope on it with a G3 illuminated reticle and matching burnt bronze Cerakoted Talley rings.

So far all tracking test are very good and the rifle makes bug holes at 100 yards.
I'd say in this case my scope is about the same quality as the rifle, which is quite good.

Yeah, I did lust after a MARCH scope but the price was a bit too high to swallow.

Eric B.
 
When the word low light conditions come up,,, I think of Nikon Monarch optics...

There 1 1/2 to 2 times less than a $1500 rifle... Ha...

They are frugal budget optics that seem to work for hunting and target shooting sports... $550 Cnd funds / $387 Usd bucks will get you into the Harvesting grounds... LOL...

The lower the zoom the earlier and later we get to spend in the wilds...

Its pretty dark up here in the North in the fall and winter months,,, pretty happy to have a optic that allows for dark lighting conditions...

Cheers from the North
 
You will get all kinds of free advice on here. My question on Vortex is you wonder why they have such a warrenty? I've had to send them in just after shooting them no dropping or banging just recoil. Yes they worked on it for free but to my way of thinking they should be more rugged. If my wallet would take it I love Kahles scopes. The Kahles 624i is one fine scope. You need to handle and really look through what ever you are going to buy. Night froce is good for sure but Kahles is great.
Folks describe Kahles as Swarovski's best glass combined with Nightforce turrets. Pretty spot on too.
 
Until two days ago I owned a very rugged SWFA 3 - 15 x 42 SS scope that I paid $560. on a once a year sale. Dropped that rifle twice and the scope never changed its point of impact. And the glass was as good as either of my Bushnell Elite scopes. That is saying something for a scope with FFP and side focus that you could use for tenderizing meat.

Eric B.
 
My Grandfather told me a long time ago "Sometimes there are people who have just enough knowledge to be dangerous and there are also some people who totally lack common sense. But, when you run into one who has both of these issues, run as far away from them as humanly possible!"
I just left this post running barefoot!
 
Having purchased a Swarovski Z8i 2-16x50 (24.3 ounces with rail, 23.8 ounces without the rail system - standard round tube) this year for a trip to South Africa I can't say enough good stuff about the scope. I've had a slew of Z6i models with several in the 5-30x50 magnification range which I really like on my coyote rifle and my 270 Wby. Had the 'newest' Z8i been out when I bought mine it would have been my choice hands down. The newest one is a 3.5-28x50 which is available with a built in rail mount for those who like the simplicity and the "NO ring marks" look on a $3,000+ scope. The best part is it weighs 23.5 ounces! It's also a 30 mm configuration so you're not toting an oversize scope around. Of course it can be ordered in a standard round 30 mm tube that you can put your favorite rings on.

Imagine a 3.5-28x50 with an illuminated center dot and Ballistic Turrets that can be used not only on top but also on the side for windage. The new ones also lock in place so they can't be bumped away from where you set them. You can order ready made turret rings or use their dot system which now actually gives you some numbers to go by. The old Z6i and Z5 had rings with colored dots which were nigh impossible to remember what they were set for. No more confusion.

Swarovski has their ballistic calculator on their site and it's also downloadable to your phone for use in the field.

Here is a short write up on the new scope:

https://de.swarovskioptik.com/en_US/hunting/blog/The_new_Z8i_35_28x50_APPROACHING_DISTANCE

It's the perfect scope for what you're looking for and you're not giving up low light visibility. These new Z8i models are unreal in low light. Should be ideal on your 6.5.
 
I heard one should spend 1 1/2-2X as much on a scope as for the rifle. I'm scraping together enough to get a Weatherby titanium 6.5 RPM for over $3,000. I have never heard of a $6,000 scope. What do I do now?


That is an old kind of rule of thumb based on FACTORY rifles that cost $500-$1000 when tier one glass cost $1000 to $1500. With tier one glass now costing $3000-$5000, the new rule might be to put the very best glass you can afford for the rifle and purpose.
If you are buying a mountain rifle then you are not looking for a heavy NF ATACR 7-35-56. You are likely looking for the best glass - reticle and weight for your purposes. It probably holds that if you spend $3k on a rifle you should put $2500-$3500 in glass on it. However, with OEM rifles rising in price, good glass can be had for 1/2-1 times the rifle price.
The only rule that really applies is just buy the best glass you can afford.
 
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