Cold bore shot impact?

I have a hunting rifle that I recently cleaned down to bare bore. I shot three fouler shots then did some load work. I have not cleaned it yet. Maybe 30 shots since cleaning. Went back to range to test two separate 4 shot groups out at different COAL. The first shot (cold bore fouled) hit roughly 2" low of center target. I then proceeded to wait 2 min to shoot and the 2nd shot was half in left and 1" high of center then next two shots were shot within 45 seconds. Shots 2,3,4 were a dime sized group. I went to shoot the other test loaded coal. Again the first shot was roughly two inches low of center the following 3 shots grouped slightly left and high of center. Is there any way to get that first shot to come back up into the other three shots? The barrel is free floated and the stock is hs precision. The first shot low seemed to happen after replacing factory walnut stock. Looking for any advice.
The short answer is no. For the cold bore shot to be predictable it has to be shot from a cold clean bore. Once you establish where it falls you can hold for it. If it is only a couple of inches or less it will still be minute if deer out to about 200 yds.
 
I have a hunting rifle that I recently cleaned down to bare bore. I shot three fouler shots then did some load work. I have not cleaned it yet. Maybe 30 shots since cleaning. Went back to range to test two separate 4 shot groups out at different COAL. The first shot (cold bore fouled) hit roughly 2" low of center target. I then proceeded to wait 2 min to shoot and the 2nd shot was half in left and 1" high of center then next two shots were shot within 45 seconds. Shots 2,3,4 were a dime sized group. I went to shoot the other test loaded coal. Again the first shot was roughly two inches low of center the following 3 shots grouped slightly left and high of center. Is there any way to get that first shot to come back up into the other three shots? The barrel is free floated and the stock is hs precision. The first shot low seemed to happen after replacing factory walnut stock. Looking for any advice.
Stainless barrel?
 
I have a hunting rifle that I recently cleaned down to bare bore. I shot three fouler shots then did some load work. I have not cleaned it yet. Maybe 30 shots since cleaning. Went back to range to test two separate 4 shot groups out at different COAL. The first shot (cold bore fouled) hit roughly 2" low of center target. I then proceeded to wait 2 min to shoot and the 2nd shot was half in left and 1" high of center then next two shots were shot within 45 seconds. Shots 2,3,4 were a dime sized group. I went to shoot the other test loaded coal. Again the first shot was roughly two inches low of center the following 3 shots grouped slightly left and high of center. Is there any way to get that first shot to come back up into the other three shots? The barrel is free floated and the stock is hs precision. The first shot low seemed to happen after replacing factory walnut stock. Looking for any advice.
The first thing I would do is put the old stock back on and confirm the problem is gone. That will minimize the variables you need to chase with the new stock.

I've never had the need to try this but I've used these impact labels when I coached baseball and personally used them myself with golf clubs - they turn grey at point of impact. Should tell you where your stock and metal are (paper thin close to) touching:
 
Oh Boy...You are at the right place. I had the IDENTICAL situation. Cold bore perfect...next 4 shots on a dime with different POI.( High and right).. Wound up taking entire rifle apart...Scope included... and started from scratch. First move was another GOOD cleaning after I purchased a Bore Camera...the camera showed me that I only thought I was cleaning my bore. The Guys and Gals on LRH walked me through it...I don't know "which" step cured my issue, but my Old Tack Driver hunting rifle went back to Sub MOA. I'd like to have the Powder, Primers and bullets back...that I sent downrange...trying to FIX my problem load...
 
Oh Boy...You are at the right place. I had the IDENTICAL situation. Cold bore perfect...next 4 shots on a dime with different POI.( High and right).. Wound up taking entire rifle apart...Scope included... and started from scratch. First move was another GOOD cleaning after I purchased a Bore Camera...the camera showed me that I only thought I was cleaning my bore. The Guys and Gals on LRH walked me through it...I don't know "which" step cured my issue, but my Old Tack Driver hunting rifle went back to Sub MOA. I'd like to have the Powder, Primers and bullets back...that I sent downrange...trying to FIX my problem load...
Was your action bedded at all?
 
Stainless barrel?
Some will misconstrue what I say but here goes anyway 🙄: As I have stated in other posts, (IN MY EXPERIENCE), stainless barrels tend to "crawl" more as they heat up. (This is why I asked) Coefficients of thermal expansion withstanding, I noticed years ago that MY stainless barrels tended to "crawl" more as they heated up. Do they shoot great cold? Yes. Do they shoot good hot? Yes. But on several of mine there has always been a "transitional period" during warmup. Just last week I witnessed this in one of my rifles with a spiral-fluted, heavy stainless barrel. Cold it shot great. Warm it shot good. I am NOT bashing stainless barrels. I love them. Got a few. Have owned a few more. They just seem to "crawl" more during warm up. IMO: If your stainless barreled hunting rifle is zeroed on the cold shot - you're golden. If your target rifle is stainless you may or may not have to acclimate on later shots. (Again, just my experiences) I TRY to never bash others, their advice or their favorite brand. (In over 55 years of gun ownership & target shooting, sooner or later, I've had a problem with every brand of rifle that I've EVER owned save one...& I've owned 2 of that brand) I usually just relate to my personal experiences here, not my personal favorites. Lets us know what you find out please.
 
Here is one of my tests to see if a rifle could benefit from bedding.
Loosen the action screws so that only a few threads are holding it in place and hold the stock and try to move the barrled action rearward and to the front.
I put a piece of tape on barreled action and on stock and if they move when I pull and push on the barreled action then IT NEEDS BEDDING!
No amount of action torque will keep it from moving at some point.
Just what I learned years ago.
 
Here is one of my tests to see if a rifle could benefit from bedding.
Loosen the action screws so that only a few threads are holding it in place and hold the stock and try to move the barrled action rearward and to the front.
I put a piece of tape on barreled action and on stock and if they move when I pull and push on the barreled action then IT NEEDS BEDDING!
No amount of action torque will keep it from moving at some point.
Just what I learned years ago.
Where exactly are you placing the tape?
 
Right over the front action screw of top and under the scope if possible..If not put it anywhere you can see the movement.Tighten it down but not too tight and push and pull it hard.You should see NO movement.
Where is not as important as it is to see if it moves any.Any movement will magnify the movement and change the vibrational node.
You can do this buddy,not a biggie.
Also you can put tape on the action and the stock but cut it seperate so one don't move with the other and torque it down ans shoot and see if tape still aligns,could also use a silver grease pencil.
 

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