Best Practices for New Brass

Definitely interesting. I'm not sure what to conclude other than knowing I am light years behind in the reloading equipment area compared to the guy in the video. Since I am not planning on entering the PRS circuit and just want to build an accurate load for my rifles, I will probably stick with keeping things simple and proven. This reloading thing can get very complex and expensive. I have learned more than I ever would have imagined by joining this forum. My hats off to all of the members for sharing their input.
Now I'm off to the basement to start applying what I've learned.
 
... I have about 50 once fired brass out of this rifle. I have another 100 once fired brass from a different rifle that have been full length sized to SAAMI specs. I also picked 50 new ADG the other day.
My strategy goal is to ultimately develop a very good load without burning through my components and my wallet.
Look up fireforming using the COW method. You use a pistol powder, behind Cream of Wheat. Usually this is done for AI variants, but you could use the technique to help harden the case heads while blowing the neck out and conserving your limited ideal components. Your first fireforming load should always be a couple grains soft to harden the head before subjecting it to full power loads.
Your second firing should fully fireform the brass. Again, I try to keep pressures lower than my match ammo, but if your preferred loading isn't near SAAMI max, I don't think it will matter.
MY loads are on the OMG side, but I get there slowly and safely.
 
One of my next things on my need/want list is an annealer. It will probably be a while as recent expenditures are adding up. May try to go the manual route on few pieces of brass to see if it works.
Great input by all.
I use the salt bath method of annealing and it seems to work well, and it's cheap compared to the automated options. I shoot small quantities for precision so I don't need to anneal large numbers of cases. If you want to get into annealing I'd suggest you give this method a look.
 
There seem to be a couple things to consider per your OP.
1. Do you have three different brands of brass? You mention ADG, some once in your rifle, and some once fired in another. Yhe reason I bring this up is that various brands may have large differences in what may be a safe load. Unless you can verify that all have the same volume, your loads may be different for each brand and need to be segregated and loads developed for each.

2. Agree with the comment above concerning water volume vs brass weight. I dont know, but I suspect that there is little difference in water volume between once fired in your chamber and multiple firings.
3. Fire form your brass and "neck size til the shoulder needs to be set back. Then load and size as if it were a belt less case(off the shoulder). Yhis will prolong the life of your cases.

I typically start load development after the brass is once fired in my chamber. Hope this helps and sorry for such a long post.
 
Very limited supply of the 160AB's and have a 9.5 twist so larger than 168's will probably have stabilization issues. Will head to the range when I can get myself out of the woods and get to velocity testing. A new Magneto speed showed up on my front porch yesterday. Punched a little paper with 4350 and 4831 with the 168 Berger's and never got any impressive groups although I was using PVU and Win brass. Most of hunting limits ranges to 300yds where I do most of my hunting.
Thanks.
I wouldn't burn up too many components on a hunting load if 300 yards is your max. Focus on choosing a bullet with the terminal performance characteristics you are looking for. One MOA accuracy will more than suffice out to 300 yards in the woods. I recommend a bullet that will hold together with high impact velocities such as the nosler partition, swift A-frame, or Swift Scirocco or Barnes or Hammer if you like the lead free options. Don't worry about ballistic coefficient as out to 300 yards it just won't matter.
 
Based all the input I have decided to work loads for the new ADG brass and just focus on rotating this brass. I'm really impressed by this brass. Consistency is great and based on their packaging all I had to do was neck size and a quick chamfer/de-burr. Now primed with gm215m and ready to load. I'm going to start low at the Berger min and work my way up slowly checking velocity and looking for any other pressure signs. I hope to get close to 3k fps with the 168gr and the IMR4831 I have on hand. We'll see. This is a fun project. Pulling out my 308 and heading into the woods starting again tomorrow.
Still looking to find a couple more boxes 7RM ADG brass.
 

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