Any advantages to increase barrel length on WSM cartidges?

I helped my little cousin put together about the same rifle that you have I think. We ended up putting some 190 bergers in it, and everything he has shot with it was 450-650 and it did the job. His cow this year was at 580 yards and he hit her three times but there were chunks of shoulder blades in the chest cavity. I am not sure what sako he has but is the grey laminated one. The gun shot around 3/4 moa but was that way all the time. It also shot better the further it got out. His has a little plastic clip that was restricting from seating the bullets out further. I know with how that gun shot it for sure would make a 800 yard gun. And I would shoot elk that far with it.

here is his gun.
 

Attachments

  • 1471337_709289752429678_27169300_n[1].jpg
    1471337_709289752429678_27169300_n[1].jpg
    91.1 KB · Views: 70
  • 1471358_709289262429727_686081068_n[1].jpg
    1471358_709289262429727_686081068_n[1].jpg
    26.3 KB · Views: 51
I have full intentions on trying this barrel out before it is changed. I am just trying to think ahead. Mainly because of everything I have read and heard about this twist rate. And what is needed for what I want to shoot. Hope it will stabilize the 200's so I don't have to spend the extra money.

A 10" twist will indeed stabilize any 30 cal bullet that Nosler makes to date. Most factory made 30 cal rifles come with 10" twists and a few like your Tikka and my SAKO come with 11" twists. Nolser, being a conservative company, makes their bullets to stabilize in any of the common twists. That's why they don't have an E-Tip heavier than 180 in 308.

That said, I want to clarify that f you do rebarrel, I would recommend a 10" twist. But, you don't need to rebarrel just for a tighter twist to shoot the AB's
 
MontanaRifleman- That is good to hear. When I purchased the rifle I had no intentions to rebarrel. But once I figured out the twist rate I got a little concerned. This is part of the reason for this post. I ordered some 180 and 200 gr accubonds this morning. As well as some brass. Do you have recomendations for powder? Not sure what to start with. I plan to load a few of each and see how it goes. A friend of mine has a Sako in .300 win mag and is shooting 180's out to 700 yards without issue. I am pretty sure he has the 1:11 twist as well. Hope my rifle does the same.
 
MontanaRifleman- That is good to hear. When I purchased the rifle I had no intentions to rebarrel. But once I figured out the twist rate I got a little concerned. This is part of the reason for this post. I ordered some 180 and 200 gr accubonds this morning. As well as some brass. Do you have recomendations for powder? Not sure what to start with. I plan to load a few of each and see how it goes. A friend of mine has a Sako in .300 win mag and is shooting 180's out to 700 yards without issue. I am pretty sure he has the 1:11 twist as well. Hope my rifle does the same.

The 180's will stabilize in a 12" twist and maybe even a 13" twist. I say this because 185 Berger VLD's will stabilize in a 12" twist and they will be longer than the 180 AB's. Berger also has a twist calculator on its site.

2 of the most common powders for the 300 WSM are RL17 and H4350. H4831 and 4831sc are also popular. I would start with RL17 as that wil give much better velocities than any other powder. It boosted my velocities 200 fps over H4350. You can max load 17 for max velocities or down load it a little for good velocities with less pressure.
 
That is also good to know. My gunsmith was telling me that he did not think that 1:11 would work well with anything over 165gr bullets. Although he is a big fan of scirocco bullets. I have never been able to get those bullets to shoot well in anything I have had. Or maybe he was just looking to get some more money out of me. I am going to give the RL17 a try and see what happens. Thanks for the help on this.
 
I personally would only go with a proven temperature stable powder. H4831sc or h1000, or any in the extreme line of hodgdon powder.
 
I appreciate the input. Since MontanaRifleman is in a climate similar to where I live and has sucess with rl17 I will give it a try. H1000 is my second choice. To be honest I am relatively new to reloading so any info is appreciated.
 
I appreciate the input. Since MontanaRifleman is in a climate similar to where I live and has sucess with rl17 I will give it a try. H1000 is my second choice. To be honest I am relatively new to reloading so any info is appreciated.

I need to clarify that I never used those loads for hunting and never tested RL17 for temp sensitivity. RL17 is somewhat temp sensitive from reports I have read. That said, there is no such thing as a stable powder. All powders are temp sensitive. Some more than others. As long as it is predictable I can make adjustments for it. For the ranges you will be shooting, it won't be that big of issue. Fine tune your load for about average hunting temps and if you have to make some adjustments it shouldn't be difficult.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 11 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top